New light Build. 600W H series Arrow special Samsung

[MidnightSun72]

Ok so this is just to log my super budget build of 11 600W LEDs. Hoping to replace the lights in my buddies DE Gavita room with these. He is using 1000W gavita DE bulbs dimmed down to 750W due to head space requirements and heat. I think I can build a 600W light that would give the same light as the dimmed gavita at much less watts and better life expectancy. Gonna build them to be controller dimmable and better than my last one cuz they will have a dim to off feature not available with most sub 480W drivers. Still gotta figure that part out. Also will retrofit my lights in my room with that feature later.

Ok specifics on the light.
I am using 3500K 2ft Samsung H series (H562D) recently on sale at arrow strips using LM561C diodes. Using 150W LG innotek drivers 48V. Using 2 foot samsung strips. Gonna be running 8 of these strips per 150W driver. Will be wiring 2 series 4 parallel configuration mimicking the double row strips. Will have 4 drivers for a total of 600W. total fixture effiicacy with just the whites should be around 165LM/W after driver losses. Can gain around 10/Lm per watt by going with 12 strips per driver.

Trying to spread the light so he can grow close to the lights so the strips Will spaced over a 4Ft X3ft fixture. This will replace the gavita light covering 3.5x3.5ft area. The LED will cover 3.5x4.5

got the total fixture profile down to under 3.5" for low basement ceiling mounting. Big goal with this is to increase head room and give more flexibility for crop height.

 

[testtime]

Ok so this is just to log my super budget build of 11 600W LEDs. Hoping to replace the lights in my buddies DE Gavita room with these. He is using 1000W gavita DE bulbs dimmed down to 750W due to head space requirements and heat. I think I can build a 600W light that would give the same light as the dimmed gavita at much less watts and better life expectancy. Gonna build them to be controller dimmable and better than my last one cuz they will have a dim to off feature not available with most sub 480W drivers. Still gotta figure that part out. Also will retrofit my lights in my room with that feature later.

Ok specifics on the light.
I am using 3500K 2ft Samsung H series (H562D) recently on sale at arrow strips using LM561C diodes. Using 150W LG innotek drivers 48V. Using 2 foot samsung strips. Gonna be running 8 of these strips per 150W driver. Will be wiring 2 series 4 parallel configuration mimicking the double row strips. Will have 4 drivers for a total of 600W. total fixture effiicacy with just the whites should be around 165LM/W after driver losses. Can gain around 10/Lm per watt by going with 12 strips per driver.

Trying to spread the light so he can grow close to the lights so the strips Will spaced over a 4Ft X3ft fixture. This will replace the gavita light covering 3.5x3.5ft area. The LED will cover 3.5x4.5

got the total fixture profile down to under 3.5" for low basement ceiling mounting. Big goal with this is to increase head room and give more flexibility for crop height.

View attachment 4926112View attachment 4926113View attachment 4926114

How much do you expect the parts to cost?

How much time do you expect to spend putting it together?

 

[MidnightSun72]

How much do you expect the parts to cost?

How much time do you expect to spend putting it together?

This is gonna sound crazy. But deals on arrow the lights gonna be under $250(maybe less depending on my shopping) all done for parts. I can itemize everything for you guys and link it maybe.
But the strips and drivers are about $110/light so far. Already purchased. So the rest will be aluminum wiring and wiring connectors and fasteners.

For labour I've changed my design since my last build to help speed up certain aspects. Still using common signage aluminum EX14 and EX12 Aluminum profiles. Once I have all the Oarts in front of me. I expect each fixture to take 6h to build. I maybe be ordering some 3D printed part to help facilitate this build time.

 

[ilovereggae]

subbed. just got a box from arrow w 20awg wire and some terminal connectors. I have a new fixture I have to just wire up and will have photos sometime this weekend. can't wait to see your design, looks dope so far!

 

[MidnightSun72]

Just grabbed the heat sink material, got strips and drivers. So this week I'll be collecting thermal taps, and wiring parts and fasteners, relays etc. Then I'll start making some of these fixtures.

 

[MidnightSun72]

When you driving around with 12ft heatsinks.

 

[MidnightSun72]

Started to bulk print the brackets


And here we have the strips held in place with these brackets. No screws or tape. I will be applying tape though because I d like to achieve the most thermo transfer to the aluminum. Plus I ain't taking these strips off anyway. Lol.

 

[MidnightSun72]

Can't get over the ease of use on these printers


found this cool filament.From 0-30*C its red. Then progresses to white up to 50*C.
Thinking about using this to make those brackets. It would let me know when my heatsinks are getting hot. Plus it's fun. Lol

 

[MidnightSun72]

Is enclosing an LED driver inside an aluminum channel like this a totally insane idea??? Omg it would make the whole build so damn clean. Make the top channel removeablw for maintence but all wiring would be hidden and have lots of room for gadgets like my dim to off relay I am planning.

imagine these enclosed


Like this



and then the dog is just like fuck dude just decide where you are putting your damn drivers.

 

[ilovereggae]

Is enclosing an LED driver inside an aluminum channel like this a totally insane idea??? Omg it would make the whole build so damn clean. Make the top channel removeablw for maintence but all wiring would be hidden and have lots of room for gadgets like my dim to off relay I am planning.

imagine these enclosed
View attachment 4944251

Like this

View attachment 4944250View attachment 4944248

and then the dog is just like fuck dude just decide where you are putting your damn drivers.
View attachment 4944249

I love the idea. I've thought about getting these before:

Extra Large LED Power Supply Junction Box | Weatherproof | aspectLED

This XL LED power supply enclosure junction box is perfect for housing your 150-300W aspectLED power supplies. IP65 rated.

www.aspectled.com

also my dog gets big mad if I do that. she will stamp her feet, huff, and then glare at me til I move everything off the couch.

 

[MidnightSun72]

I love the idea. I've thought about getting these before:

Extra Large LED Power Supply Junction Box | Weatherproof | aspectLED

This XL LED power supply enclosure junction box is perfect for housing your 150-300W aspectLED power supplies. IP65 rated.

www.aspectled.com

also my dog gets big mad if I do that. she will stamp her feet, huff, and then glare at me til I move everything off the couch.

Lol do you think the aluminum would radiate enough of the heat away??? I can stick the drivers down with thermal tape to increase the heat transfer. But I worry about killing the drivers just for the aesthetics of it.
That Box is made of steel and appears to be well ventilated. Which kind of makes me think it could be a poor design consideration. Enclose then air tight almost. Lol I could probably do a cover and leave a 1/2" gap along the sides.

 

[MedicinalMyA$$]

Is enclosing an LED driver inside an aluminum channel like this a totally insane idea??? Omg it would make the whole build so damn clean. Make the top channel removeablw for maintence but all wiring would be hidden and have lots of room for gadgets like my dim to off relay I am planning.

imagine these enclosed
View attachment 4944251

Like this

View attachment 4944250View attachment 4944248

and then the dog is just like fuck dude just decide where you are putting your damn drivers.
View attachment 4944249

That would look great, so neat and tidy. I have four of the same drivers on a 4x4 build and was going to use some plastic electrical trunking the same way as you show here but got worried about temperatures, so decided against. Although now that it's in use, the drivers don't get very hot at all, just mildly warm.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Lol do you think the aluminum would radiate enough of the heat away??? I can stick the drivers down with thermal tape to increase the heat transfer. But I worry about killing the drivers just for the aesthetics of it.
That Box is made of steel and appears to be well ventilated. Which kind of makes me think it could be a poor design consideration. Enclose then air tight almost. Lol I could probably do a cover and leave a 1/2" gap along the sides.

It's a good idea and logically the Alu should be able to radiate the heat: it's the same amount of heat going into something with bigger surface area. But you never know with thermal management. Try it out and see what temps you get. Maybe beef up a bit on size so you could pop a fan in there if case be? It should cool all the drivers as the channel is acting as a sink.

Only issue I see is if you want the drivers directly on the light and not remote.

 

[MidnightSun72]

It's a good idea and logically the Alu should be able to radiate the heat: it's the same amount of heat going into something with bigger surface area. But you never know with thermal management. Try it out and see what temps you get. Maybe beef up a bit on size so you could pop a fan in there if case be? It should cool all the drivers as the channel is acting as a sink.

Only issue I see is if you want the drivers directly on the light and not remote.

Wanted to run the drivers in the extrusion on the light like this


I am planning on running 150W/ extrusion
I have been running 108W of Bridgelux eb gen 3 slims on the same extrusion and the extrusion only ever heats up 1-2 degrees over ambient.

so that being said. 4 drivers in the enclosure. Would lose 600Wx .07 = 42W to dissipate. Should be OK. I might do a trial and check temps.

 

[MidnightSun72]

[

That would look great, so neat and tidy. I have four of the same drivers on a 4x4 build and was going to use some plastic electrical trunking the same way as you show here but got worried about temperatures, so decided against. Although now that it's in use, the drivers don't get very hot at all, just mildly warm.

i have 4X 200W TRP drivers on my current grow and the drivers get pretty warm. Around 90F if I remember correctly. Maybe warmer. I'll assemble a light and do a test this weekend

Temp at top of heat sinks

Its 86.9 F in the room or at the top of the room anyway.


temp on the drivers

 

[MidnightSun72]

Quickly chopped up some aluminum to the drawing as you can see the light would be pretty low profile. And slick as fuck. I am making some strong considerations of making this middle driver part removeable for remote mounting too. Will see.

 

[MustGro]

Love your light build @MidnightSun72 . I had 240 watt meanwells mounted to the heatsinks on my LED boards. I took one off after a few months and you could see the outline of the driver in the aluminum from the heat. I had to wear a glove to handle it, the bottom of the driver was so hot. I hung them from my ceiling rack and now you can touch them with your bare hand no problem. I like your idea about getting them up off the aluminum. Spider Farmer does that with their Meanwells. Just two Aluminum strips bent to form legs. The bottoms are real hot; maybe that channel is enough mass to work but a half inch air gap would be sweet.
@Rocket Soul 's fan idea is a good one too.

 

[MidnightSun72]

Love your light build @MidnightSun72 . I had 240 watt meanwells mounted to the heatsinks on my LED boards. I took one off after a few months and you could see the outline of the driver in the aluminum from the heat. I had to wear a glove to handle it, the bottom of the driver was so hot. I hung them from my ceiling rack and now you can touch them with your bare hand no problem. I like your idea about getting them up off the aluminum. Spider Farmer does that with their Meanwells. Just two Aluminum strips bent to form legs. The bottoms are real hot; maybe that channel is enough mass to work but a half inch air gap would be sweet.

That air gap would stop the heat transfer and insulate the driver thermally. If the bottom is the hottest part then this should work great. I already cut up and assembled a tester. So will know before the weekend is up haha.

 

[1212ham]

If the bottom is the hottest part then this should work great.

I'm not so sure, even if the bottom is the hottest part the top and sides provide a lot of the heat dissipation. And I wouldn't use thermal tape, it could be a real pain in the ass if you ever have to replace a driver!

 

[ilovereggae]

Lol do you think the aluminum would radiate enough of the heat away??? I can stick the drivers down with thermal tape to increase the heat transfer. But I worry about killing the drivers just for the aesthetics of it.
That Box is made of steel and appears to be well ventilated. Which kind of makes me think it could be a poor design consideration. Enclose then air tight almost. Lol I could probably do a cover and leave a 1/2" gap along the sides.

I never though about putting cased drivers into them, I was looking for something to put those 30W Samsung drivers into since they are bare. I definitely would worry about putting meanwells in there and them getting too hot. What if you wired up a little PC fan at each end to force the airflow?

It's a good idea and logically the Alu should be able to radiate the heat: it's the same amount of heat going into something with bigger surface area. But you never know with thermal management. Try it out and see what temps you get. Maybe beef up a bit on size so you could pop a fan in there if case be? It should cool all the drivers as the channel is acting as a sink.

Only issue I see is if you want the drivers directly on the light and not remote.

I am working on a remote mount setup for a bunch of drivers. Won't be as slick as thus but going to try to go beyond my normal spaghetti pile of wires in the corner.