MY LIGHT IS BLINKING WHEN I TURN IT UP

Hugo Phurst said:
I take it back, you're wired as 240vac single phase.
Got a multimeter?
Check for 240vac across the two hot wires and 120vac from each hot lead to ground.
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I just returned my meter for a clamp style because I wanted an easier way to measure Amps, and I haven’t quite figured it out yet. I had 123v from each leg when I checked it this morning
 
Rocket Soul said:
What's the dets on the second driver? Voltage/current/model nr?

This is a really tricky one...

I've worked with meanwells constant power drivers and the gist of it is they can handle a wide range of output voltage and the current will adapt so that output in watts is the same: your driver has 10A max out when running a 60V setup but you can squeeze out 12.5 with 48V. If your driver works in the same way as the mw constant power drivers you can still try to output those 12.5A even if you have a higher than 48 voltage, but this is were the driver would just shut down.
Usually when it's flickering like that it's basically cause the load has too high forward voltage.
Maybe your driver just flickers rather than shut down. If the strips voltage is around 60V and (just like the meanwells) the dimming knob gives you access to the full current range it would be normal for the driver to act up. Cause you'd be trying to output 12.5A at 60V (750w total) which would trip up the driver.
My advice: ask meijiu what's the supposed voltage of the fixture, this could give you info re if the driver is actually doing what it's supposed to.
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It’s the same model driver but at least now o know it wasn’t an issue with the first driver. I’m trying to measure amps now.
 
I am an idiot. I didn’t realize that clamp meters require measuring each conducted separately, now I need a line splitter?
 
PJ Diaz said:
It sounds like you don't know much about electricity. IMO, you shouldn't be messing with power stuff which is beyond your knowledge. Put down the meter, pick up the phone, and call a qualified electrician.
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I’m not saying you are wrong but I would like to understand this moving forward.
 
PJ Diaz said:
You definitely need to split the poles, so that you're not measuring both negative and positive at the same time. In that case, the flow of electrons would cancel each other out, and you would get false readings.
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yeah I didn’t ever think about that until I went to use the clamp and got weird readings. The only real thing I have to go on so far is 123v on each leg of the outlet
 
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