MY LIGHT IS BLINKING WHEN I TURN IT UP

First off... thank you all so much for the responses, I realize I am probably asking stupid questions but I will get eventually get it lol

Any numbers from previous posts concerning output voltage are wrong. I am having a hard time coming up with a way to measure that accurately. So the only thing I know for sure is that each leg of the input reads 123v
 
As for the series vs parallel wiring, this seems to be a pre-assembled kit, you can't change the wiring.

>it worked great on 110v.
If it works correctly on 110v but not on 220/240v then the driver's defective.
 
shimbob said:
As for the series vs parallel wiring, this seems to be a pre-assembled kit, you can't change the wiring.

>it worked great on 110v.
If it works correctly on 110v but not on 220/240v then the driver's defective.
Click to expand...

I hope not, I tried a second one and it did the exact same thing
 
Boomer22 said:
First off... thank you all so much for the responses, I realize I am probably asking stupid questions but I will get eventually get it lol.
Any numbers from previous posts concerning output voltage are wrong. I am having a hard time coming up with a way to measure that accurately. So the only thing I know for sure is that each leg of the input reads 123v
Click to expand...
Try measuring across both legs, that's what powers the driver.
 
Boomer22 said:
Maybe I should have done that, I thought that adding the the two legs together gave you the +/- 240v
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Correct, but it's interesting it worked on 120v.
It acts like the dc voltage is getting to high for some reason and the driver goes into hickup mode. Were the bars connected and on when you measured the dc voltages?
 
1212ham said:
Correct, but it's interesting it worked on 120v.
It acts like the dc voltage is getting to high for some reason and the driver goes into hickup mode. Were the bars connected and on when you measured the dc voltages?
Click to expand...

Yeah they were on but it doesn’t matter... the dc testing I did was wrong. I will figure out a better way to test the output dc but I don’t want to cut a cord to access the individual conducted
 
Update: Meijiu seems to think it is a problem with the dimmer, but I don’t think that’s the case. I tested input at the driver and it is 246v. When I plugged into a 123v outlet this morning, no blinking and worked just fine. I still haven’t measured DC output yet because I don’t really want to cut a cord
 
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Boomer22 said:
yep and it worked great on 110v. The problem has to be something I just don’t understand about electrical/led drivers
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The "inventronics eud-600s12adt" is a "programable" driver. since you've altered the input you might have to do some sort of adjustment (output current maybe).

Just me, but I'd go back to 110vac, also you might want to make sure that you don't overdrive the led chips when you do get it working at 220vac.
 
I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that you have no neutral. I'm not certain, but I believe that most drivers are designed to be hooked up with a neutral, a live, and a ground connection. In Eu you can get 230v AC that way, but in the US the 2 legs of hot are more common, which is what the OP has done. You may want to ask Inventronics about that.
 
Rocket Soul said:
It might also be that 50% output is the max amps out for that driver at the voltage of the bars. Iirc correct this is a constant power driver and they work a bit different. Measure the dc output (V and A) of the driver at 50%: I suspect you'll have 600w output if you multiply V with A.
Click to expand...

So I was super excited tonight because I split the output cable so that I could separate the positive and negative conductors and get a reading with my clamp meter... I took it out to the shop and plugged it in... low and behold no such reading. I couldn’t get the meter to pick anything up. Back to the drawing board
 
If the light is flickering intermittently then its likely to be wiring. If its just plain blinking, not on low but yes on high then its likely a voltage problem: when the driver can't reach the required voltage of the lights circuitry then it goes into hickup mode: it tried to power, cant reach voltage and turn off, then back to try again qnd so on.
 
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