The lower power A-type dimming drivers seems to have higher voltage regulation range than the higher powered Drivers with voltage reg. I also suggest looking further than the datasheet, look for the "report" in menawells database which is the real values (usually a bit higher than the ds).That list isn't an "every driver that can run qb648's" list. They don't list any -54 CV drivers (except the hlg-120h-54, for a single qb648, with a caveat of *dimming for continuous operation*), I'd think because most -54 drivers don't have the ability to turn voltage up to 56V+.
Yet, they do list the hlg-120h-54 all the same, and they don't specify a certain type, don't you find that odd? Because it's only 54V (in all but the a-type, and ab-type). The a, and ab type both have Vo and go up to 58V (like the 320h-54-a does). But again, they don't specify for the end user which type, which should matter, right.
And the 320h-54-a definitely should be on that list, right. But it's not.
Anyway, I will double check (I already single checked, hah). Because I agree that from last I looked at the datasheet for the qb648, "56V" wasn't max...-- Let me check before I say this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1538/8585/files/DataSheet_Horticulture_Lighting_Group_QB648__REV1.0.pdf?v=1585856960
It says "Min: 51V, Typ.: 54.9V, Max: 58.8V". So, if "Typical" is basically 55V, then I'd hope and guess (I'm not expert at this) that 56.7V would be sufficient to completely and safely power the qb648 diablo.
Lemme know what you think.
Edit: Typical might not be enough to "fire it up" properly, and might be only after things have warmed up, after running for a bit, etc. I don't know, just trying to interpret it.
I didn't even know such a thing existed. Thanks for telling me that.The lower power A-type dimming drivers seems to have higher voltage regulation range than the higher powered Drivers with voltage reg. I also suggest looking further than the datasheet, look for the "report" in menawells database which is the real values (usually a bit higher than the ds).
I didn't set up a proper "test" or anything. But I did check the voltage while setting up two qb648s on one of these drivers. From (foggy) memory..Interesting, guys.
Could I maybe check this out practically, using a 320h-54a and a qb648. I suppose I'd need to hook up two DMMs simultaneously to see the V and I and check whether...the current drops when I boost the driver beyond 54V...or something? Hah.
288's and 96's yes, Diablo's no. I mean you might be able to fire them up halfway, but those boards max out around 58v.
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4 v1's is only 200 watts?I took a break for the winter so only just starting week 2 of flower, but here's what 200W of V1 boards is doing so far.
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running them in series at 1050ma. they only pull @ 48V at that current which is just @ 50W each. efficiency goes way up when u run them soft. I got them on sale for $29 each so I just bought a shit load of them and run them soft.4 v1's is only 200 watts?
Did you buy individual heatsinks for them or are you running them bare?running them in series at 1050ma. they only pull @ 48V at that current which is just @ 50W each. efficiency goes way up when u run them soft. I got them on sale for $29 each so I just bought a shit load of them and run them soft.
I am about to switch things up tho and run them in parallel 2 per 150W driver. so that fixture will be @ 300W instead.
im too scared to run my boards or strips naked. i have them on a beefy heatsink that I sourced from a wholesale aluminum shop. tho i also wish i had just gotten individual ones for each board bc they are pretty heavy fixtures and like you said would allow for a lot more different layouts. also the time spent drilling and tapping holes I wish i would have just bought the Slates from HLG.Did you buy individual heatsinks for them or are you running them bare?
I grabbed three as well on the sale and also one double heatsink and one single for them. Wish I would've skipped the double heatsink or got all singles for more flexibility, but curious what others are running them at without sinks. I've only used two on the double heatsink but was running both off an xlg-100, so figure I should be fine without the sinks if I wanted to change the spread a bit.
I'm not the most handy individual so that's why I just grabbed some sinks, but I feel the same about leaving them bare. Everything led I've used so far has been running them really soft so not so much worried about heat, but still scared structurally about just framing them bare.im too scared to run my boards or strips naked. i have them on a beefy heatsink that I sourced from a wholesale aluminum shop. tho i also wish i had just gotten individual ones for each board bc they are pretty heavy fixtures and like you said would allow for a lot more different layouts. also the time spent drilling and tapping holes I wish i would have just bought the Slates from HLG.
tbh. if u are worried about it, the Hlg120 4 packs are $100 rn and with discount that makes it $90. those don't need heatsinks and can easily frame up with some 1/4 angle aluminum. i have way too many unused strips right now to justify buying them myself but recommend that setup a lot.I'm not the most handy individual so that's why I just grabbed some sinks, but I feel the same about leaving them bare. Everything led I've used so far has been running them really soft so not so much worried about heat, but still scared structurally about just framing them bare.
I did grab a few wire cooling racks and used zip ties to attach some strips to. Havent wired it up yet, but was easy for my simple mind so far.
Wish I would've skipped the double heatsink or got all singles for more flexibility
If you like to diy, and change things, single heat sinks are the way to go, definitely.tho i also wish i had just gotten individual ones for each board bc they are pretty heavy fixtures and like you said would allow for a lot more different layouts. also the time spent drilling and tapping holes I wish i would have just bought the Slates from HLG.
Where in the heck did you get qb288 rspec v1 for 29 dollars?running them in series at 1050ma. they only pull @ 48V at that current which is just @ 50W each. efficiency goes way up when u run them soft. I got them on sale for $29 each so I just bought a shit load of them and run them soft.
I am about to switch things up tho and run them in parallel 2 per 150W driver. so that fixture will be @ 300W instead.
not rspec. these didn't come out til v2. but right before 2019 christmas or nye i think,, they put out a batch of the qb288 v1 lumiled 2835HE that were $29 each. and the 10% off coupon worked too. so I bought 14 if you go back far enough in this thread u will find it. have since given away 4 to a friend I'm helping learn to grow, but still have the other 10 working hard (or actually, soft lol)Where in the heck did you get qb288 rspec v1 for 29 dollars?
What a fuckin' deal.not rspec. these didn't come out til v2. but right before 2019 christmas or nye i think,, they put out a batch of the qb288 v1 lumiled 2835HE that were $29 each. and the 10% off coupon worked too. so I bought 14 if you go back far enough in this thread u will find it. have since given away 4 to a friend I'm helping learn to grow, but still have the other 10 working hard (or actually, soft lol)