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Biochar Charging Question

Good afternoon folks,

I make my own organic soil and I think I have my recipe spot on. It is gentle enough for an auto seed directly in the soil but strong enough for a photo clone with 4-week veg and full 8-10 flower with water and some molasses here and there.

I want to add biochar for overall soil and plant health. After all the stuff I have read, this biochar is a must in any organic soil.
I was thinking of adding it at an 8 to 10 % ratio.

If I put it in Uncharged into the mineral soil for the 3 to 4-week composting process will my soil be weaker overall for a few months until it starts releasing?

Or, if I put in some Charged biochar during the composting process will it then make my soil too strong?

Or, Is it possible to charge biochar with only microbes and elements that won't burn the plants?

Thank you very much for your time and help. I really appreciate it.
Mojofingers
 
My go to recipe for biochar
Equal parts biochar and earth worm castings. 1 cup alfalfa per cf or so for N

water down and let sit for minimum if a month.
I add this to my soil at rate of 1 qt per cf.

whatever you don’t just add globally during your doom process. Charge someway first
Thank you very much for your help.
I will pre-charge and wait 2 weeks until the hot cooking is done
 
My go to recipe for biochar
Equal parts biochar and earth worm castings. 1 cup alfalfa per cf or so for N

water down and let sit for minimum if a month.
I add this to my soil at rate of 1 qt per cf.

whatever you don’t just add globally during your doom process. Charge someway first
My go to recipe for biochar
Equal parts biochar and earth worm castings. 1 cup alfalfa per cf or so for N

water down and let sit for minimum if a month.
I add this to my soil at rate of 1 qt per cf.

whatever you don’t just add globally during your doom process. Charge someway first
I would thumbs up but I'm such a newb I cant find the option on my phone hah
 

solakani

Well-Known Member
Good afternoon folks,

I make my own organic soil and I think I have my recipe spot on. It is gentle enough for an auto seed directly in the soil but strong enough for a photo clone with 4-week veg and full 8-10 flower with water and some molasses here and there.

I want to add biochar for overall soil and plant health. After all the stuff I have read, this biochar is a must in any organic soil.
I was thinking of adding it at an 8 to 10 % ratio.

If I put it in Uncharged into the mineral soil for the 3 to 4-week composting process will my soil be weaker overall for a few months until it starts releasing?

Or, if I put in some Charged biochar during the composting process will it then make my soil too strong?

Or, Is it possible to charge biochar with only microbes and elements that won't burn the plants?

Thank you very much for your time and help. I really appreciate it.
Mojofingers
Principles of Biochar Activation is a good read.

 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
My go to recipe for biochar
Equal parts biochar and earth worm castings. 1 cup alfalfa per cf or so for N

water down and let sit for minimum if a month.
I add this to my soil at rate of 1 qt per cf.

whatever you don’t just add globally during your doom process. Charge someway first
what do you like to use for your biochar starter? Any preferred type of wood?
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
I buy the bagged Mother Earth biochar and start from there. I believe wood choice can be critical and also the environment where it is burnt needs to be zero oxygen, ( I think, speaking from zero experience) like a sealed metal container or some kind of pressure sealed vessel.
Interesting, I've never heard about that being how its produced
I would be hoping to make it myself, its crazy the kind of natural abundance that I've leaned about which is right under my nose around where I live.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
This is what I've dug up in a quick search:

"Basically, it’s organic matter that is burned slowly, with a restricted flow of oxygen, and then the fire is stopped when the material reaches the charcoal stage. Unlike tiny tidbits of ash, coarse lumps of charcoal are full of crevices and holes, which help them serve as life rafts to soil microorganisms. The carbon compounds in charcoal form loose chemical bonds with soluble plant nutrients so they are not as readily washed away by rain and irrigation. Biochar alone added to poor soil has little benefit to plants, but when used in combination with compost and organic fertilizers, it can dramatically improve plant growth while helping retain nutrients in the soil."

Looks like the covering is what creates the O2 deprivation - I have a steel drum I use for burning yard waste, gonna play around to see what I can make.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
This is what I've dug up in a quick search:

"Basically, it’s organic matter that is burned slowly, with a restricted flow of oxygen, and then the fire is stopped when the material reaches the charcoal stage. Unlike tiny tidbits of ash, coarse lumps of charcoal are full of crevices and holes, which help them serve as life rafts to soil microorganisms. The carbon compounds in charcoal form loose chemical bonds with soluble plant nutrients so they are not as readily washed away by rain and irrigation. Biochar alone added to poor soil has little benefit to plants, but when used in combination with compost and organic fertilizers, it can dramatically improve plant growth while helping retain nutrients in the soil."

Looks like the covering is what creates the O2 deprivation - I have a steel drum I use for burning yard waste, gonna play around to see what I can make.
Nice. Let us know how it goes? At almost 30$ a cf sure would be worth making yourself.
 

loco41

Well-Known Member
I've made a couple different batches of biochar. Not sure if what I ended up with could be considered "biochar" exactly, but if nothing else it helps with compaction some I suppose and is all different shapes and sizes.

Used an old iron pot and a broken green egg steamer thing this time. Havent charged this batch up yet, but the previous couple attempts I soaked the char in a kelp/alfalfa tea with added fish hydrolysate. After a couple days in the 5 gallon bucket, it was all added to the compost bin. Since then it has found it's way back into the soils and worm bins for further "charging".

Really new to all this myself, just sharing my little bit of experimenting. I'll get some pictures of the end product up sometime, but here's a few of things burning up..
 

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lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
Looking good - I was wondering about about charging... I had read somewhere that when you soak too long the biochar loses some of its ability to perform as well as it could in the soil. Anyone have thoughts on how long you should be ‘charging’ it by soaking?
 

solakani

Well-Known Member
Looking good - I was wondering about about charging... I had read somewhere that when you soak too long the biochar loses some of its ability to perform as well as it could in the soil. Anyone have thoughts on how long you should be ‘charging’ it by soaking?
I buy my biochar charged but if diy then the duration of the charge should be at least 14 days or when cec is at maximum. If this is not possible then there is a problem with the compost method.
 

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
I buy my biochar charged but if diy then the duration of the charge should be at least 14 days or when cec is at maximum. If this is not possible then there is a problem with the compost method.
I have the time for sure, just want to make sure that I’m not doing it wrong lol
Can anyone share their process for charging?
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
My go to recipe for biochar
Equal parts biochar and earth worm castings. 1 cup alfalfa per cf or so for N

water down and let sit for minimum if a month.
I add this to my soil at rate of 1 qt per cf.

whatever you don’t just add globally during your doom process. Charge someway first
Here ya go
I have the time for sure, just want to make sure that I’m not doing it wrong lol
Can anyone share their process for charging?
 
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