I caught the "still cheap" at first before you edited it. I knew you meant cheat but I thought it was funny cause I'm still pretty cheap when I want to be, and it reminded me of when I was a youth I "borrowed" my dad's healthy black soil from the garden and grew
Here I call those critters the Rocky Mountain Skunk.
I would wait at least 24-48 hours to give the soil a little time to dry out and add the nematodes right before lights out. Add some bti when you water if you're having a lot of gnats as well as adding some sand to the top of the pots after you put the nematodes in, to stop any big gnats from laying more eggs. This should completely eliminate any further gnat issues.
Just so you know, the H2O2 will kill beneficial predators too. I would try to avoid it in my soil. Hypoaspis miles from EWC is all I needed with a few yellow sticky traps for fliers. I don't know how bad it is though.
Nice. The 1/2 cu ft bag is back up to $30.
Sulfate is an anion, but more plantfood-ions are actually kations. Since there needs to be a certain balance (to arrive at the preferred target pH), and because plants can easily deal with excess S, it is Sulfate that is recommended in order to establish this balance.
No. Wettable sulfer, it's for pest management. Because suggestions for gnats and stuff were being given.
Great information guys! Sulfur sounds like a great option for a newbie of my caliber.
Just shipped today! WOOOOOT. Thinking I might save it for next run at this point since we only have about 4-5 weeks of flower left.
Just make sure it's "wettable sulfur"; meant to mixed into water and sprayed that way. Remember to shake whatever sprayer you're using intermittently while spraying (add a bit of liquid soap as a surfactant (wetting agent) if you want).
Are you saying your EWC has Hypoaspis Miles in it already??
Yes, that's where all my hypoaspis miles came from. I would add some as soon as you get it, especially if you have fungus gnats. Then they can work on killing them all before next round. It will also create a more lively soil for round 2 if you give the microbes time to breed.
So I'm gonna ditch this soil and get new soil for the next run - Don't want to risk anything with the leftovers plus quality was less than desirable.
I don't think the mites and toads will hurt each other.