Led isn't agreeing with my plants

kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
Star Dog said:
I've not researched deeply I've only scratched the surface but you can get mh up to10k, given the option what k would you choose?
I normally just go buy a replacement brand name like sylvania or osram which afaik are generally between 4/5k.
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between 4.5k and 5k is optimal for veg
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
I have never seen this before but it doesn't seem to align with the above color chart so the K is confusing 7k + is going deep into red I dont see how that will work
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
[TD]Venture's Technical Information
Color
The "color" of light sources is derived from a complicated relationship derived from a number of different measurements, including correlated color temperature (CCT), color rendering index (CRI), and spectral distribution. In general, color is most accurately described by a combination of CCT and CRI.
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[TD]Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)
The first factor in choosing a lamp color is the correlated color temperature. For example, if a retailer wants lighting to blend in with warm halogen accent lamps, the retailer may choose a Venture® MP 100W/C/U/3K, which has a correlated color temperature of 3200K. CCT is defined as the absolute temperature (expressed in degrees Kelvin) of a theoretical black body whose chromaticity most nearly resembles that of the light source. The CCT rating is an indication of how "warm" or "cool" the light source appears. The higher the number, the cooler the lamp color will appear. The lower the number, the warmer the lamp color will appear.
Spectral Energy Distribution
When we look at a light source, the eye "perceives" a single color. In reality, we are seeing literally thousands of colors and hues made up of a combination of different wavelengths of light. These different combinations and the relative intensity of various wavelengths of light are used to determine the CRI of a light source.

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[TD]Color Rendering Index (CRI or Ra)
In general, CRI is a numeric indication of a lamp’s ability to render individual colors accurately relative to a standard. The CRI value is derived from a comparison of the lamp’s spectral distribution to the standard (e.g. a black body or the daytime sky) at the same color temperature.
Color Shift and Variation
Different colors are produced in metal halide lamps by using various arc tube shapes and metal halide salts. In new lamps these halides need to "burn-in" for approximately 100 hours before they reach their optimum color. This is why new lamps can sometimes be unstable or vary in color.
As metal halide lamps age, chemical changes occur causing shifts in color. Generally, traditional probe start lamps shift approximately twice as much in CCT over life compared to Uni-Form® pulse start lamps.
Special Colors:
Designer Color® lamps that produce blue, green, aqua and pink light are available for special applications where color is needed without light loss due to filters.

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[TD]Different Colors
Venture Lighting offers lamps in many colors to suit virtually any lighting application. Outlined below are the various color temperatures (CCT) currently available:
27K 2700K - Used as a replacement for very warm incandescent lamps (coated only).
3K 3000K-3200K - Used as a general warm, white light source, available in clear or
coated finish for retail or interior applications; blends with halogen lamps.
4K 3700K-4000K - Used as a neutral white light source, available in clear or coated finish for general lighting, factories, parking lots, warehouses.
5K 5000K - A moderately high CCT daylight source used in general and retail lighting applications
6K 6500K - A high CCT daylight source used to simulate average outdoor light conditions
10K 10,000K - A very high CCT, daylight light source, used in horticulture and aquarium applications.[/TD]​
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
I suppose the 10k exists in the CCT scale, not sure how relevant it is to photosynthesis, have never seen anyone study that spectrum , I just follow the doc hes a college professor and teaches classes in growing cannabis
 
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Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Doug Dawson said:
Hey @Star Dog , what are you feeding them? I am about to flip my lights to 12/12, right now they are still running at 50% in veg but the plants love it.
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Hi Doug yours looks great really lush, that nice lush green is evading me, I'm giving the led another week I think I might have it sorted?
Yes it was still at 50% and 30" I'm using canna a+b with a ec of 1.1/12 ph 6.0.
I've since turned the light back down lol, I was going by height and power but i've got an app on my phone, apparently the app is pretty accurate it was tested against a £2,000 lux/umol fancy meter.
I googled the output of a mh 250w and its around 23,000 lux I put my phone in for a reading at 50% and 30"...
Screenshot_20201128-185810.png
If you aren't familiar with the app it doesn't read anymore, according to the app it takes about 60w of led to equal output to a 250w mh.
I'm gobsmacked, astounded at its output, I think I've over cooked them again?
 
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Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
kovidkough said:
I have never seen this before but it doesn't seem to align with the above color chart so the K is confusing 7k + is going deep into red I dont see how that will work
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I'm of the understanding that 10k is far into the blue end of the spectrum?
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
the only thing i can find is from other users and states 10k is UV and won't be very good for veg , but if you do get it please start a journal I cant find much online
 
Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
A plant at any stage responds really well to 2.700k but it tends to make them a bit leggy however it suits some types of grows.

kovidkough said:
the only thing i can find is from other users and states 10k is UV and won't be very good for veg , but if you do get it please start a journal I cant find much online
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It's not something I'd venture into I'm more your standard hps/mh grower, but I've seen enough impressive grows to warrant me buying a led, if I can get to grips with it I'd have high expectations of it in flowering.

Ultra violet 10k???
The 1st veg light I bought was allegedly a full spectrum light, idk what a spectrum was at the time tbh.
Anyway it was a strong purple ultra violent colour and the clones loved it, even with very limited knowledge I had near 100% strike ratio?
With hindsight I think that bulb could have been at uv end of the spectrum?
 
kovidkough

kovidkough

Well-Known Member
Star Dog said:
A plant at any stage responds really well to 2.700k but it tends to make them a bit leggy however it suits some types of grows.


It's not something I'd venture into I'm more your standard hps/mh grower, but I've seen enough impressive grows to warrant me buying a led, if I can get to grips with it I'd have high expectations of it in flowering.

Ultra violet 10k???
The 1st veg light I bought was allegedly a full spectrum light, idk what a spectrum was at the time tbh.
Anyway it was a strong purple ultra violent colour and the clones loved it, even with very limited knowledge I had near 100% strike ratio?
With hindsight I think that bulb could have been at uv end of the spectrum?
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this is all new and beyond my experience but if it were me I'd use MH
 
Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
kovidkough said:
this is all new and beyond my experience but if it were me I'd use MH
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It's only through circumstance that I'm persevering, I'm not in a rush for the clones/plants that are growing atm so I'm best to learn about it just now, in normal circumstances I'd have used the mh after my 1st mistake.

Also I think my persevering will pay off the power from a 240w led is phenomenol, it has to be at least equal to 400w mh.
 
Trickyticky

Trickyticky

Well-Known Member
Star Dog said:
Ah right sorry folks i misunderstood I was thinking you meant the 24hrs light itself was a problem, I'm with you now, 24hrs of led can be a problem.
I'll start with 18/6 next week when I put it back in, if it goes well I can try 24hrs and see how it goes, it's winter here and the temps could get down to 15/16c not tragic but the constant 22/23c is more appealing and I can't afford to run another heater the light is actually the cheapest option, but I'll cross that bridge when it comes, I could maybe draw air from my flowering tent?

My other plants been flowering for around 75 days now, if they would feckin hurry up I'd be able to use some wattage, between living and growing I'm using £50+ a week and work isn't exactly booming atm, I'm skint! :-(
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Where bouts in uk mate and what's ya trade
 
Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
On the 1st December I changed over to mh due to the lack of heat.
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Today I trimmed all the growth back on 6 of them.
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The ones I've trimmed are going in the bin, so before I throw them out I'm going to test out the Led sitting on top turned right down, I think they'll still grow but it's irrelevant they're not anything special.
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Out of 8 flowered there's afaik one decent pheno, I've also 2 I didn't flower who knows one might be super special so I need to flower them next time.
I started training the best one today.
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Fk I forgot to take a photo before I moved it to the other tent, anyway this is the best pheno after tying.
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I'm going to veg that big then flower it with the other 2 unknown phenos.
 
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