Anyone here fluent in 3D printing?

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Hey guys and gals,

I am looking to buy a cheap 3D printer. I am trying to make some covers to use on BJB COB holders so that I don't get any chemical residue on them when spraying plants as these LED lights will be used for side lighting. My plan is to use the slots the angelina reflectors twist into, basically replicate the reflector mounting posts onto a flat circular disc that has a small handle for twisting it on and off.

Here are images that show the chip holder and the reflector, the parts are not large. These are just images from cobkits website but you get the idea.

holder.pngreflector.png

I would want a rather durable material as the little posts on the reflector would break off easily otherwise. I plan to print a lot of these, starting out with 48 units once the prototyping gets me a good design.

So if any of you all have experience with 3D printers and could point me in a good direction I would greatly appreciate the input. Models to avoid, models that are good, ups and downs of the different kinds of 3D printers.

I have the option of going to the library and having them printed there but I have 2 main concerns about that, one is I may have to adjust the CAD drawing as I am not confident the first attempt will be correct and they charge 5 cents a minute and with 48 pieces I dunno, maybe I would be better off buying a cheap $200 printer that is good enough for the task and then have it around for my girl to play with as she is fascinated with the idea.

Thanks in advance,
Renfro
 

Laughing Grass

Well-Known Member
Hey guys and gals,

I am looking to buy a cheap 3D printer. I am trying to make some covers to use on BJB COB holders so that I don't get any chemical residue on them when spraying plants as these LED lights will be used for side lighting. My plan is to use the slots the angelina reflectors twist into, basically replicate the reflector mounting posts onto a flat circular disc that has a small handle for twisting it on and off.

Here are images that show the chip holder and the reflector, the parts are not large. These are just images from cobkits website but you get the idea.

View attachment 4703642View attachment 4703643

I would want a rather durable material as the little posts on the reflector would break off easily otherwise. I plan to print a lot of these, starting out with 48 units once the prototyping gets me a good design.

So if any of you all have experience with 3D printers and could point me in a good direction I would greatly appreciate the input. Models to avoid, models that are good, ups and downs of the different kinds of 3D printers.

I have the option of going to the library and having them printed there but I have 2 main concerns about that, one is I may have to adjust the CAD drawing as I am not confident the first attempt will be correct and they charge 5 cents a minute and with 48 pieces I dunno, maybe I would be better off buying a cheap $200 printer that is good enough for the task and then have it around for my girl to play with as she is fascinated with the idea.

Thanks in advance,
Renfro
Do you know how hot they will get? Standard PLA will deform at 145° while ABS can withstand up to 200°. If you're going to do multiple iterations a cheap 3d printer probably makes sense. The creality ender 3 pro is a high quality machine with a small price tag and can handle the job. Printing ABS is tricky. You'll have to build some sort of enclosure and maintain 100°+ ambient temperature otherwise warping will occur. ABS also off gasses styrene when printing and smells terrible so if you go that route you'll want to make sure you have good ventilation.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Do you know how hot they will get? Standard PLA will deform at 145° while ABS can withstand up to 200°. If you're going to do multiple iterations a cheap 3d printer probably makes sense. The creality ender 3 pro is a high quality machine with a small price tag and can handle the job. Printing ABS is tricky. You'll have to build some sort of enclosure and maintain 100°+ ambient temperature otherwise warping will occur. ABS also off gasses styrene when printing and smells terrible so if you go that route you'll want to make sure you have good ventilation.
They would only be used when the lights are off and unplugged. Sorry I should have mentioned that lol.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Does that simplify things a little bit?

I know that some machines use spools of material and others don't. I was thinking spools but are they less precise or? I really don't know diddly lol. I am gonna look at that creality machine you mentioned, I have seen it in some searches I have done thus far.
 

Laughing Grass

Well-Known Member
Perfect that simplifies it a lot. the ender and normal pla filament will work without any modifications. I'd avoid DIY printers or any of the really cheap acrylic prusa clone printers like Tronxy.


You have FDM which use filament and SLA that uses resin. All the printers that you see for <= $400 are FDM. The resin printers do have tighter tolerances and the finish is noticeably better than an FDM printer. FDM is ± 0.5 mm where SLA is ± 0.15mm.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Perfect that simplifies it a lot. the ender and normal pla filament will work without any modifications. I'd avoid DIY printers or any of the really cheap acrylic prusa clone printers like Tronxy.


You have FDM which use filament and SLA that uses resin. All the printers that you see for <= $400 are FDM. The resin printers do have tighter tolerances and the finish is noticeably better than an FDM printer. FDM is ± 0.5 mm where SLA is ± 0.15mm.
I might require the higher accuracy due to the small size of the little prongs that would replicate the reflector connection. Honestly that was my biggest concern with this project, those are not only small but they need to be somewhat durable or they may break off in the chip holder.
 

Laughing Grass

Well-Known Member
The thing about additive manufacturing you have to look at as building one layer at a time, typically 0.2mm or less. If you orient the model so the tabs are perpendicular to the layer it will be weak and easily snap off, however if you orient the model so the tabs are parallel to the layer the tabs have the strength of the entire layer, not only the tab. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but half the battle is correctly orienting the model to take advantage of the natural strength of the material. Most people look at how much support material is required and that's okay if you're printing trinkets, but if you want a usable part that's durable you have to ignore the extra time and support material.

Plastic injection molding tolerance is ± 0.35mm and they'll run that mold until it's worn to .5mm. Looking closely at your models I think you could successfully print this on an FDM machine. Slow the speed down to 30mm per second and you'll be within 0.35mm easily.
 

ksafimova

Member
I have a 3D printer at home. I am fluent in 3D printing. I remember how difficult it was to transport this car.
 

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
get a prusa or caribo cus you will get hooked and they are very good machines or try to find a second had one if you want some advice just snd me a message
 
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