Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
I'll look into that as well jondamon.
I'll try the grow shop for more thrips artillery.
I'll try the grow shop for more thrips artillery.
Thrips, where does the first one come from?
- Thread starter Cookie Rider
- Start date
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Like I said they are carcinogenic and it’s worth looking at all the information you can about them before deciding to use one.
but I can attest that they do kill everything! And I mean everything! Including you if you’re over exposed but I know they will get rid of your thrips problem if you can’t find anything else.
another alternative are some predatory insects.
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Awsome info man!
Thanks for all your advice.
I'll be sure to look into this further.
I really don't want to pull the plug on this round!
Thanks for all your advice.
I'll be sure to look into this further.
I really don't want to pull the plug on this round!
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily.. more likely came in on you or a window / air entry point .. could be on a pet and then onto you then into the room, from the grass to your shoe to the room. Could be anything they’re small.. just do like 2-3 attacks it will at least diminish enough to get this harvest done then clean everything really well n start over if u can’t get rid.. thu shouldn’t destroy the plants if u attempt to control it
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Well I just sprayed again w the bug-be-gone. I went through every leaf after spraying three days ago and found one spot w three new thrips.
I've seen minimal eggs possibly none but -could be D earth that I sprinkled on the soil.
I'm hopefull I'll get a bug free window to flip and ripen them.
Or at least preserve the mother's.
I've stretched out veg over a stressful month extra so I'm seeing signs I'll need to pot up from the 3 gal some are in.
Thanks all for the replies.
It's not true what they say about riu!
I've seen minimal eggs possibly none but -could be D earth that I sprinkled on the soil.
I'm hopefull I'll get a bug free window to flip and ripen them.
Or at least preserve the mother's.
I've stretched out veg over a stressful month extra so I'm seeing signs I'll need to pot up from the 3 gal some are in.
Thanks all for the replies.
It's not true what they say about riu!
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm hoping myself.
But it's super frustrating, when you think your being super laboratory clean and it keeps happening.
No kidding I put on tyvex full suit when I open the tent, after showering and changing first.
Can they live on a tent wall w no plants after a bleach and soapy water wipe down?
budsfordayz
Well-Known Member
i use pro mix hp and i can vouch for having a thrip outbreak as well.
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Always seems to happen chasing that perfect vpd in veg,
One humidity spike and some form of bugs appear.
For me at least.
One humidity spike and some form of bugs appear.
For me at least.
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
it’s not a popular solution, I know almost no one who uses100% perlite like I do. It’s amazing for so many reasons just dries out a bit faster than coco lets say.. but I love it bug free , aeration of roots, easy to flushat finish or if problems mid grow, cheap, reusable.Also when plants are late flower u have to keep them wet or pots can tip over ..
these pics are hulkberry (strawberry diesel x og) that’s at week 6 flower for the close up, maybe week 4 for the wider pic of the whole light
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Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
That's a great idea!
Do you feed and water differently than in soil?
Do you feed and water differently than in soil?
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
What do you mean by differently?
If you have many plants, like if you water 10gal or more at a time let’s say.. I’d get a big Rubbermaid 70l or whatever the big ones are, even a garbage bin, use it as your reservoir.. get a submersible pump, garden hose, and long neck garden sprayer nozzle thing.. next, use just perlite like this, plant as u would in soil, compact the perlite a bit with tapping it down on the top a bit, not even necessary just a tip.
As for watering .. buy some Hydro nutrient . A ph pen, mix according to your nutrient recommendation, Oh it the water to 5.8-6.2, feed them once or twice, then just water. Almost any base nutrient schedule is lacking cal- mag, so buy cal mag to add in when it’s ‘just water’ you are giving them. I only use cal mag like once a week or two , so yeah feed water feed water
I’d they look like they need more food try feeed feed water
when u first plant in the perlite water twice a day but just enough to keep to it initial medium (Rockwool, oasis, rapid rooters) wet but notTOO wet or there will be algae. Like water often. It a bit at first until roots reach down and around..
other than that.. ask away Idon’t mind sharing anything I haven’t thought of.
I use GENERAL hydro flora series
3 part micro grow and bloom , plus the calmag, I use rapid start in early veg for faster root growth, I use floralicious plus in grow and bloom, and also liquid kool bloom all a bulker and powder kool bloom as a ripener. I flush for about 5-7 days. Just water but u can buy flushing agent if u like ..
Mix wise , I use 15-10-5 Ml/gallon (grow micro bloom) In grow cycle. And the exact opposite in bloom cycle. (5-10-15 ml/gal) .. in transition I go 10-10-10 ml per gal, and use the other th ones as recommended (cal mag , rapid start, floralicious) . Hope that gives u a good idea of how to go about it. U can use any jutes just follow their guidelines .. advanced is ok, there are sooooo many nute lines it’s crazy. I’d go basic , easy and proven.
If you have many plants, like if you water 10gal or more at a time let’s say.. I’d get a big Rubbermaid 70l or whatever the big ones are, even a garbage bin, use it as your reservoir.. get a submersible pump, garden hose, and long neck garden sprayer nozzle thing.. next, use just perlite like this, plant as u would in soil, compact the perlite a bit with tapping it down on the top a bit, not even necessary just a tip.
As for watering .. buy some Hydro nutrient . A ph pen, mix according to your nutrient recommendation, Oh it the water to 5.8-6.2, feed them once or twice, then just water. Almost any base nutrient schedule is lacking cal- mag, so buy cal mag to add in when it’s ‘just water’ you are giving them. I only use cal mag like once a week or two , so yeah feed water feed water
I’d they look like they need more food try feeed feed water
when u first plant in the perlite water twice a day but just enough to keep to it initial medium (Rockwool, oasis, rapid rooters) wet but notTOO wet or there will be algae. Like water often. It a bit at first until roots reach down and around..
other than that.. ask away Idon’t mind sharing anything I haven’t thought of.
I use GENERAL hydro flora series
3 part micro grow and bloom , plus the calmag, I use rapid start in early veg for faster root growth, I use floralicious plus in grow and bloom, and also liquid kool bloom all a bulker and powder kool bloom as a ripener. I flush for about 5-7 days. Just water but u can buy flushing agent if u like ..
Mix wise , I use 15-10-5 Ml/gallon (grow micro bloom) In grow cycle. And the exact opposite in bloom cycle. (5-10-15 ml/gal) .. in transition I go 10-10-10 ml per gal, and use the other th ones as recommended (cal mag , rapid start, floralicious) . Hope that gives u a good idea of how to go about it. U can use any jutes just follow their guidelines .. advanced is ok, there are sooooo many nute lines it’s crazy. I’d go basic , easy and proven.
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Wow man thanks so much for the details. That helps a lot.
I'm doing a shut down and deep clean again. I've sent off my genetics to be grown out at multiple sites. So with some luck I can have another go with cut of the same girls I've just fallen for.
What's the point of the big clean if I don't remove the potential source of the issue?
I've been using airpots, they should work w perilite too I assume. Maybe dry out even faster I'd guess?
I'm doing a shut down and deep clean again. I've sent off my genetics to be grown out at multiple sites. So with some luck I can have another go with cut of the same girls I've just fallen for.
What's the point of the big clean if I don't remove the potential source of the issue?
I've been using airpots, they should work w perilite too I assume. Maybe dry out even faster I'd guess?
Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
How Do you wash out the perilite between rounds? Infinitely reusable?!
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Basically I just knew what’s loose , the top will have some loose perlite and I recoop that.. I hardly recoop I just buy new shit usually but u can. U don’t need to wash it off or anything it’ll have some salts on it already for your next batch of plants.. the flush u do at end of harvest is enough to clean it.
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
Air pots like bag pots? Or like mesh pots? Either way whatever holds the perlite in the pot without letting it out is good. I use normal black pots and block 80% of the hole. See pic (I do this for the bottom hole too, drainage and perlite can’t slide through
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Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Air pots like this, w dimples w holes on the side and a raised mesh bottom.
Please excuse the burple.
I'm at my wits end w the bugs I've been breeding. If this can add another preventive measure it will bring back the enjoyment I usually get growing stuff.
Really thanks for this info.
collieBudz
Well-Known Member
I’ve never even seen pots like that. I’d call them pineapple pots.
anyway as long as it keeps the perlite in, its Good
anyway as long as it keeps the perlite in, its Good
teddy bonkers
Well-Known Member
thrips, really? those are the easiest to get rid of, anything with pyrethrum works great.
also, I have used pro-mix for over 10 yrs and never got thrips.
also, I have used pro-mix for over 10 yrs and never got thrips.
pulpoinspace
Well-Known Member
This is how people get thrips most of the time. either exchanging clones or from a plant that is left outside and brought back inside.
def not from promix there is nothing for thrips to eat in promix they feed on live plant tissue.
"Thrips are hard to control and can be found on crops, pet plants or weeds in a greenhouse. Thrips can be brought into a greenhouse on plugs, cuttings, liners, prefinished crops and work clothes, or come in from the outdoors from late spring through fall. Weeds or field crops near a greenhouse can have high populations of thrips, especially those in flower. This is especially a concern if crops are being harvested or flowering weeds are cut down as thrips search for new plant hosts.
Although many thrips species that infest greenhouse crops spend part of their lifecycle in the soil or growing media, this does not mean that the growing medium is the source of thrips. In fact, it is very unlikely for thrips to occur in unused, packaged growing media. However, if thrips were somehow introduced to unused growing media in the prepupal and pupal stages (which last 2-4 days), the emerging adults would not have a food source and would die. If there were eggs, warm storage temperatures would stimulate hatching and the nymphs again would not have a food source inside the packaging and would die. " from promix website
Critters Down Under: Thrips | PT Growers and Consumers
Explore thrips life cycle and the common issues they bring to effectively curb their spread and safeguard greenhouse crops.
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Cookie Rider
Well-Known Member
Right on!
That's what I'm wondering about.
I didn't before but now I'll box and gas
Cuts before they come back to me.
Quarantine is key.
Thank you for that reply!
That's what I'm wondering about.
I didn't before but now I'll box and gas
Cuts before they come back to me.
Quarantine is key.
Thank you for that reply!