The far red thread

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Can you name some of the companies that are not swaying customers to make the wrong choice?
In a few weeks when I'm done trimming Joe.
You read my posts supposedly.
So far i can only vouch for what i use & what i know. You read so you know i share the knowledge as i become aware.
What i know is that companies are just now seeking the Spectrum I've been using for 5 years. In top-bin, high end builds.
And everyone is discussing the benifit of it everytime they discuss this & other gap fillers to the Original McCree Curve (300-780nm+)
Now that They are getting there this company i use is refining that original spectrum from 7 yrs ago.
Components + Build Quality.
Go from there Joe.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
your chart show a similar result would say, 550 is abit less absorbed then blue n red f.e., even less absorbed is 730 and further up.
In the video Bugbee showed green can also penetrate a leaf fully just like FR, but you're right it doesn't compare to FR. So many outdoor plants have this healthy natural green leaf color and bushy great form - in an indoor scenario many leaves would turn yellow if a plant had such a structure.

interesting to see in your chart how well uva is absorbed,
would had thought its less, while i can also clearly see that all my 390-400 is absorbed well.
The UVA may be absorbed also in the middle of the leave because of this. Maybe one of the reasons why UVA hasn't the same destructive potential than UVB or UVC. If the radiation is high in energy + gets absorbed at the instant it comes into contact with matter the result is great heat. But the energy from UVA gets distributed over a greater volume than blue light.
nice little veg box you have there with some very healthy plants.
tyvm, unfortunately I got a thripse problem but apart from that, yes they're lighthungry and growing rapidly. gonna transplant tomorrow, and introduce harder light. It's an Amazon-cartonage XD completely traps light, I'll clean & dry it tomorrow and then give it the last finish with white lackey. so far works well but I see the need to make it completely hydrophobic.
 
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JOE GROWS

Member
In a few weeks when I'm done trimming Joe.
You read my posts supposedly.
So far i can only vouch for what i use & what i know. You read so you know i share the knowledge as i become aware.
What i know is that companies are just now seeking the Spectrum I've been using for 5 years. In top-bin, high end builds.
And everyone is discussing the benifit of it everytime they discuss this & other gap fillers to the Original McCree Curve (300-780nm+)
Now that They are getting there this company i use is refining that original spectrum from 7 yrs ago.
Components + Build Quality.
Go from there Joe.
Ok I think I understand. You are saying that your Amare light is much better than HLG because HLG has a bad spectrum that doesnt grow plants but you dont want to say that here to not upset anyone right?
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
there is a formula floating around, @Rocket Soul do you have it at hand?
i came out with 5min 6W on square meter with over 3qmol a watt efficient 730nm`s.

over a few percent far red all day are are a lot, its quite powerfull.
Randomeblame gave an example here.

 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
Randomeblame gave an example here.

should be pinned somewhere.
very good post, i almost forgot i bought the pro light optos due to this post, lol.
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
In the video Bugbee showed green can also penetrate a leaf fully just like FR, but you're right it doesn't compare to FR. So many outdoor plants have this healthy natural green leaf color and bushy great form - in an indoor scenario many leaves would turn yellow if a plant had such a structure.


The UVA may be absorbed also in the middle of the leave because of this. Maybe one of the reasons why UVA hasn't the same destructive potential than UVB or UVC. If the radiation is high in energy + gets absorbed at the instant it comes into contact with matter the result is great heat. But the energy from UVA gets distributed over a greater volume than blue light.

tyvm, unfortunately I got a thripse problem but apart from that, yes they're lighthungry and growing rapidly. gonna transplant tomorrow, and introduce harder light. It's an Amazon-cartonage XD completely traps light, I'll clean & dry it tomorrow and then give it the last finish with white lackey. so far works well but I see the need to make it completely hydrophobic.
i think youre right there its the green which keeps the inner canopy happy.
on the other hand were trying shape our plant to our needs indoors and it seems green can have a slightly negative effect on yield.
ive found the studie.
and migro trying to explain it

a bit of UVA seems to not hurt at all and probably have some benefical effects would say.
at least 390-400 is kinda harmless, my 2 cent.
you should try some, seems you have some 400nm allready.
have no idea if 400nm count allready as blue percentage, probably yes.

i ordered my veg box (biggest plastic box they had) on amazon, didnt had the idea i could simply use the packaging of it also :-)
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I should rephrase that, They work but Amare is 30% better because they have far red according to hybridway
[/QUOwh
here we go again good thread spoilt - :wall::wall::wall::bigjoint:
JG go and have a look at Valoya brand for a spectrum centred grow light, they have research papers and such, its a good read. If you then wanna start a discussion on it just make your own thread. Dont start the my growlight is bigger than yours discussion here please. Everyone else is able to discus far red on its own merits here and there is no need of bringing in brand comparisons. A lot of people use this thread for reference dont mess it up, please.
 

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
on the other hand were trying shape our plant to our needs indoors and it seems green can have a slightly negative effect on yield.
ive found the studie.
and migro trying to explain it
the study was very interesting to read, because it went in detail explaining some of the errors the scientists of the past had been doing. Some of the information actually confirms my point. I also think that some is maybe not so relevant. For example there were alot of studies cited that had been research on very small growing plants - so the penetration power of the light doesn't play a big role at all. Imagine you have a good penetrating lightsource where a fraction of photons are hitting the topsoil instead.

But if you grow cannabis in large bushes, that are 1.50m tall with strong lamps 1m away - these will saturate the topleaves fully. Once the reaction centers are under constant excitation you'll only add heat if you introduce more light. At that point I'm asking for the addition of green spectrum to not aggravate the top leave situation further and create heat stress, but deliver the photons instead to the middle. It won't be tremendously much but the Far Red should be there to increase its effect via this Em. effect. I'm pretty sure you all have seen these insanely elongated limbless hanging around bottom sidebranches - a plant forms these in response to shade avoidance = it has not enough light. It's a point separated from the spectrum, that also has its own set of photomorphogenic effects in store. Some of the studies were even ignorant of that, ie. 150 umol [!] - if topleaves aren't even fully saturated on small plants there's no point to call for more penetration power in the first place naturally.

So it may be really situationally beneficial to have an extra green option. Look for example at the Sylvania Grolux its spectral sheet looks just like 4 monopumps 380 440 660 730 (just to make an example) - wouldnt the 550 fit right in if you just keep in mind how well balanced the solar spectrum reaches as? maybe not for SOG 12/12fs but if you grow anything like 11l pots....

BTW much kudos for the links provided, I realize I have much too much FR in there. Since I got so many leftover diodes I could maybe use them to make some sidelighting in the veg tent.... and I could replace some FR with Green and put these at the same channel than royal blue / UV.
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
i think the study proof your view on green light and its penetration capabilities, also the relation to the shade avoidance syndrom.
to be fair i think the study mention that green could have a bigger effect with denser canopys, also it looks many studies where also made under a high ppfd level.
you may digged deeper in to this then me.

the pratical question is if our white Leds dont have enough green.
the often used 3000k and else have quite some of it.
the from some prefered 2700K , high CRI have even less green (pls some correct me if i am wrong).
I couldnt find the spectral sheet of the Grolux on the quick, but am confused there, always thought HPS have a lot green in it.
like
would say green is there in good qtys in most HPS and LED grows but if you say the Grolux miss it, then it will be missing.

if you have enough to doubble the leds, doubble them up, to each led in series one in parallel.
better spread.
its for sure temptimg to make a mix of color leds, but have to say its much easier to see the effects if you can sperate them.
even with seperate color channels its often hard.
royal blue and uv on one channels sounds btw very good to me.
 
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