Aussie Growers Thread

DustyDuke

Well-Known Member
Why not, plants are off putting stupid amounts of water vapour anyway. I foliar calcium all the way up till week 2-3 of flower and have started hitting them with potassium citrate 2 or 3 times in weeks 6-8
In flower my dehumidifier will catch 2 litres of water in a 24 hour period well summer run soil grow. So I think your right they pump out the moisture so you would be sweet but only if your humidity is in a good spot
 

JimyTheCook

Well-Known Member
Why not, plants are off putting stupid amounts of water vapour anyway. I foliar calcium all the way up till week 2-3 of flower and have started hitting them with potassium citrate 2 or 3 times in weeks 6-8
Yea after you were explainin awhile back about how plants uptake calcium an a few other things i was foliar feedin cal nitrate up until 3-4 weeks of flower probs would of stopd earlier to foliar potassium but i never got round to gettin any. Its not ideal to be sprayin anything on plants late flowerin but as long as it wont affect the final bud quality i dont see why not.
 

Bullygrowz

Well-Known Member
Why not, plants are off putting stupid amounts of water vapour anyway. I foliar calcium all the way up till week 2-3 of flower and have started hitting them with potassium citrate 2 or 3 times in weeks 6-8
Just thought it was common practice dont really wanna be spraying shit on your buds through flower
 

Bullygrowz

Well-Known Member
Phosphorus deficiency’s are rarely because there’s not enough phosphorus there for the plant. 9/10 if you’ve got a phos def you have something going wrong in your environment, media or nutrient causing it to be locked out. Throwing more phos in there is just adding fuel to the fire. It’s why I got on the calcium foliar train, calcium is hard for the plant to absorb through the root zone in sufficient quantities and bonds with phosphorus in the media/nutrient to form dicalcium phosphate which can’t be uptaken by the plant and therefore locks out both the phos and cal it contains.

Product like mammoth p (which I don’t personally use) are good because they help break down this dical phos and make the phos more mobile and easier for the plant to uptake
Yeah well thats how i treat all defficiencys really first check is ph and ec for lockouts.. but i never really have any issues other than goin purple in winter i also get less yield in winter... i wonder why :D
 

reza92

Well-Known Member
Would need some big heat mats to do anything to 50l pots :lol: i may even invest in a fishtank heater for the rez aswell atleast give em warm water :D:lol::lol:
Keeping your Rez around 22ish also means more dissolved oxygen, heat mats mostly help with stopping the cold rising up. If your in a tent grab an electric blanket and throw it underneath between the tent and the floor.
 

Bullygrowz

Well-Known Member
Keeping your Rez around 22ish also means more dissolved oxygen, heat mats mostly help with stopping the cold rising up. If your in a tent grab an electric blanket and throw it underneath between the tent and the floor.
Nah in a room if i flower through the night time ill be set for temps. Its just balancing wether the added yield from having better room temps will offset the added elctricity bill i may even flower from 12 at night till mid day
 

beernutz

Well-Known Member
10-15 years ago only hippies and crazy people foliar fed at all. The art is evolving constantly. I believe @Saffasteve foliar feeds outdoor most the way through flower with his special brew.
I've never been big on foliar outdoors ( old habits hard to change ) but I see Saffa like reza said with awesome results when doing foliar it's definitely something I need to make more of an effort next season doing.
Nts brand reza wasnt it ?
 
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