3rd school: uva from the start in increasing dosis, uvb only for last part of veg and in flowre for an hour or so. Nachooo tried this to great effect, tgere was some bleaching but good results. Bud was only smoke tested but gave cold sweats...UV is very tricky to use correctly without letting the tops of the plants mature way before the rest.
There seem to be 2 schools of thought. One leaves a 24 Uv free period between each UV application to avoid building up UV resistant pigments, the other only applies UV in the last 2 weeks when the buds only have building and ripening left.
THANK YOU FOR ALL FOR ALL THE VALUABLE INPUT.I wouldnt know. Im a "build it" guy so preder just to add some strips or monos
I havent had time to see it. Will check.This past weekend Stephen from HLG talked about their tests with UV on the GML show for a bit.
Regardingthis post of mine... why KB is highlighting bold QB272 PCB: 3.0/W conductivity, 2OZ copper thickness .. can someone pls explain why is that special, what is the advantage?Hi! I'm newbie with QBs....I need some experienced advice on the new KB 480 w set with QB272 PCB: 3.0/W conductivity, 2OZ copper thickness but only 4mm thick heatsink ( 240 W unit has 10 mm thick heatsink) .. so the 480 W QB272 now has 1024 pcs of LM301H (either 3000K or 3500K) + 40 Cree Xpe 2 660 + 16 pcs Cree 730 + LG UV... the QB288 was not separately switchable Reds and had no IR and UV but had 1008 LM301H + 144 Cree 660 Reds ... ahaghhg .... this is driving me crazy ... need to set up a 6"x7" flowering room ... controling strech is in the focus and durability that might correlate with good thick heatsink .... for vegging KB suggested theh same QB272 swithchable reds and UV but with 4000k H301H .... your input will be greatly appreciated on what to pull the trigger
Thank you. I will opt for 240 W units that is small enought to distribute light evenly as per my calc from PAR maps. Just one more question as I see you are very experienced. I noticed your affection for 2700 K color .... BAVA 240 W usnit is built up of 192 diods of 2700K +320 diods of 4000K .... plus 660 reds + 730 Ir + UV all these last 3 swithable (BTW my freind tells me is is easy to attach a timer on each channel)... turning OFF 660 + IR and UV will make this unit suitable for vegging at abt 20 watts/ sqf ... wont the 2700K cause strech? .. and also the other side of the coin, 2700 + 4000 in the above mention proportion is ideal for flowering? Would a single color 3000k or 3500k + reds more appropriate? I'm very interested in your opinion and what is yur experience on this.Thicker copper trace is better at sucking the heat out of the led chip. The 3.0/w i never quite got explained or understood.
I think the values are quite standard. But i know its quite easy to pretend your trace is thciker than it is, iiuc youd need to cut the board in half or desolder leds and compare weight with another board with the same layout.
To be honest id never trust them too much, especially in these days of super low prices. I got into this cause i saw tests here on the forum. @Moflow is still or measurements/par maps guru, ive not seen a single person do comparison tests between different companies boards for a very long time. He deserves a lot of props. Also if anyone wanna see what cheating at growing and physics look like go and see him grow led weed at half the recommended temps. Dont know how hes able still impressed.
Without complicating things too much on the answer: mixed white spectrum on the same channel is no point, just go for 3000k or 3500k. You may wanna leave uv on in vegg, build some tolerance ot will also work against stretch.Thank you. I will opt for 240 W units that is small enought to distribute light evenly as per my calc from PAR maps. Just one more question as I see you are very experienced. I noticed your affection for 2700 K color .... BAVA 240 W usnit is built up of 192 diods of 2700K +320 diods of 4000K .... plus 660 reds + 730 Ir + UV all these last 3 swithable (BTW my freind tells me is is easy to attach a timer on each channel)... turning OFF 660 + IR and UV will make this unit suitable for vegging at abt 20 watts/ sqf ... wont the 2700K cause strech? .. and also the other side of the coin, 2700 + 4000 in the above mention proportion is ideal for flowering? Would a single color 3000k or 3500k + reds more appropriate? I'm very interested in your opinion and what is yur experience on this.
BTW I attach here the BAVA PAR mapping (source from MIGRO) .. nice .. the black regtangle is the board sizeView attachment 4471427
They have a great spectrum, high cri and seem to be performing well from the tests ive seen. Also have a good spread of light been bigger boards.These Aussie lights have me really intrigued but are they really worth that much more money? Thinking about grabbing some of those when flowering time comes.
Russell is the brand? They on Alibaba?As this is the Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off thread don't be forgetting these R2T enhanced spectrum boards, courtesy of Russell. One of the first single channel enhanced boards.
View attachment 4471561
Might be worth mentioning theyre bigger and more diodes than 288s, theyre 8x16" with 400 diodes, compare price with approx 1.4 boards.These Aussie lights have me really intrigued but are they really worth that much more money? Thinking about grabbing some of those when flowering time comes.
Russell is the brand? They on Alibaba?
A kilowatt meterThis isn't really Chinese board related but kinda is... Anyways, what do you guys use to know how many watts you're using on each board?