CO2 generator advice

[OldMedUser]

Do you have a diy, even though it sounds pretty straight forward. Safety, specifics, etc.?
Thanks.

It's pretty straight-forward and simple if you have a propane torch, solder, soldering paste, copper tubing and a mason jar with new sealing lids tho used would do if the lid is flat.

I guess you'll need a drill and assortment of drill bits to make the hole in the lid but a tapered punch could work.

1st use the copper tubing you have, 3/16" inch is what I used for the smaller unit, to select the drill that most closely matches it's diameter. Before drilling it's best to use emery cloth or not too coarse sandpaper to clean the top where you're going to drill the hole. Scratches up the surface and removes the thin plastic coating on top or whatever it is so the solder binds well. Put the lid on something flat like a 2x4 etc then drill/punch the hole. Set the lid up on something non-flammable so it's about half inch/1cmbelow the lid surface with just 2 or 3" above. I just some 1/2 nuts to set it on. Make sure you lightly sand the tubing so it's clean and roughed up too.

Then use a toothpick, Q-tip or anything to smear a little bit of soldering paste around the joint to draw the solder. Use the propane torch on it's lowest setting to heat the tubing just above the joint then when the paste has spread and is hot touch the solder to the joint. Keep the heat on until the solder melts and flows into the joint and seals it up good. Don't heat the lid itself or you could melt the seal around the rim. You may not need paste if you use resin core solder.

Clean up the ends of the tubing to de-burr it and make sure it's open. A larger drill lightly on the end will taper the inside to help get the wick in easier. Depending on how tight the fit is you may have to push a wire thru from the top to attach the wick to so you can pull it thru. Use natural fiber for the wick. Cotton shoelace, hemp twine or butcher's string can work. I use a wire nut/marrette to cap the wick when not in use and to put out the flame tho you can pinch it off with your fingers or blow it out too. Keeping it capped when not using prevents it all evaporating away.

Keep it in a metal or stone pail in case of leaks and away from anything flammable just in case. I keep a larger ABC fire extinguisher outside the room, just in case.

If you've never soldered before then either don't do it or find a buddy who knows how. I'm pretty sure a good 2-part epoxy or liquid metal cement would do the trick as it doesn't get hot around the joint if the tube is at least 3" above the joint. The pail or pot you stand it in should have a tight fitting lid so if anything goes wrong you can just put the lid on to put out a fire. It won't explode unless you pick up the jar with the flame on and drop it and it shatters. That won't even be an explosion but will burn all at once and end in tears. Put the flame out before refilling or moving the thing at all.

The wick should be no more than 1/8th" to 3/16th"up with an almost invisible flame in the light. Put your hand above to feel the heat to know it's on.

Good luck and be safe!

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

Just reading through your thread here but had to say, it's becoming more and more frequent now that I come across a forum/site post and find someone mentioning this issue.

Never heard of this "minigen", sounds cool.

Would the heat from the propane burner mostly offset your induction lamp's heat? Or are you actually worried it'll add even more heat than the induction lamp did (assuming you remove the induction lamp)?

I've been thinking of best ways to add useful heat to the actual plants (whether directly or via ambient temp) and one consideration was add a co2 gen. and stop constant air exchange (they have dehuey, etc. available). Get heat, with bonus co2, or other way around depending how you wanna look at it.
Otherwise wondering how many cutter ir leds to order or something like that, lol.

Not a bad idea. A lot of CO2 controllers have a high temp cutoff so they already double as temp controllers.

I plan to remove the induction lamp from the inkbird controller and just run it on a timer a couple hours a day for UV near the end of flower. I'm worried it will produce more heat than the lamp did. I'm sure it will be fine because even if it is too much heat I can just drain to waste water-cool it.

You could also consider over-sized heating pads like the kind you sprout seeds on attached to an inkbird temp controller. That way you can keep the whole plant warm, not just the leaves.

I have a semi-sealed tent. I vent only for humidity (or sometimes heat) and then I air condition and dehumidify the entire apartment. I figure the CO2 will just cycle around and come back in through the inputs. I just don't know how much will disperse before it gets there.

The company that I ordered from canceled my order saying that the manufacturer took all of the inventory back so they could sell it themselves at a jacked up rate. Fuck Hydro Innovations and the horse they rode in on. Luckily I found one used on ebay.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

If you somehow modify an "on demand"/tankless propane hot water heater into a nice diy co2 generator, I really wanna see the writeup and end product.

I looked into it but I went with the minigen just because it's so tiny and I live in a tiny apartment and I never have any room for anything.

The problem I saw with the tankless water heaters is aside from their size, they're usually battery powered because they're for camping, so that would require a power supply. They also require water be flowing through them to turn them on, so I don't have the option of not water cooling them. With the minigen I can just take the heat exchanger out and it still works fine.

 

[2com]

It's pretty straight-forward and simple if you have a propane torch, solder, soldering paste, copper tubing and a mason jar with new sealing lids tho used would do if the lid is flat.

I guess you'll need a drill and assortment of drill bits to make the hole in the lid but a tapered punch could work.

1st use the copper tubing you have, 3/16" inch is what I used for the smaller unit, to select the drill that most closely matches it's diameter. Before drilling it's best to use emery cloth or not too coarse sandpaper to clean the top where you're going to drill the hole. Scratches up the surface and removes the thin plastic coating on top or whatever it is so the solder binds well. Put the lid on something flat like a 2x4 etc then drill/punch the hole. Set the lid up on something non-flammable so it's about half inch/1cmbelow the lid surface with just 2 or 3" above. I just some 1/2 nuts to set it on. Make sure you lightly sand the tubing so it's clean and roughed up too.

Then use a toothpick, Q-tip or anything to smear a little bit of soldering paste around the joint to draw the solder. Use the propane torch on it's lowest setting to heat the tubing just above the joint then when the paste has spread and is hot touch the solder to the joint. Keep the heat on until the solder melts and flows into the joint and seals it up good. Don't heat the lid itself or you could melt the seal around the rim. You may not need paste if you use resin core solder.

Clean up the ends of the tubing to de-burr it and make sure it's open. A larger drill lightly on the end will taper the inside to help get the wick in easier. Depending on how tight the fit is you may have to push a wire thru from the top to attach the wick to so you can pull it thru. Use natural fiber for the wick. Cotton shoelace, hemp twine or butcher's string can work. I use a wire nut/marrette to cap the wick when not in use and to put out the flame tho you can pinch it off with your fingers or blow it out too. Keeping it capped when not using prevents it all evaporating away.

Keep it in a metal or stone pail in case of leaks and away from anything flammable just in case. I keep a larger ABC fire extinguisher outside the room, just in case.

If you've never soldered before then either don't do it or find a buddy who knows how. I'm pretty sure a good 2-part epoxy or liquid metal cement would do the trick as it doesn't get hot around the joint if the tube is at least 3" above the joint. The pail or pot you stand it in should have a tight fitting lid so if anything goes wrong you can just put the lid on to put out a fire. It won't explode unless you pick up the jar with the flame on and drop it and it shatters. That won't even be an explosion but will burn all at once and end in tears. Put the flame out before refilling or moving the thing at all.

The wick should be no more than 1/8th" to 3/16th"up with an almost invisible flame in the light. Put your hand above to feel the heat to know it's on.

Good luck and be safe!

Thanks for the write up, and the tips. Good safety pointers too, thanks.
I'll keep this one in mind, might come in handy some time.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

Thanks for the write up, and the tips. Good safety pointers too, thanks.
I'll keep this one in mind, might come in handy some time.

You could also consider one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Hand-Warmer-12-Hour-Chrome/dp/B013HLGTL2/

It burns fuel without a flame. I have no idea how much CO2 it produces, but it's probably not unlike an alcohol lamp.

 

[OldMedUser]

You could also consider one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Zippo-Hand-Warmer-12-Hour-Chrome/dp/B013HLGTL2/

It burns fuel without a flame. I have no idea how much CO2 it produces, but it's probably not unlike an alcohol lamp.

Those burn naphta so give off a variety of gases. Same stuff camp stoves and lanterns have used for over a century. I used to have one of those and have used Zippo lighters for over 50 years. Stinky!

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

Those burn naphta so give off a variety of gases. Same stuff camp stoves and lanterns have used for over a century. I used to have one of those and have used Zippo lighters for over 50 years. Stinky!

Ain't nothing wrong with naptha. It's worth putting up with the smell to have no open flame. Luckily you don't have to because zippo sells a special ultra refined fuel that doesn't smell bad specifically designed for the handwarmers, not their lighters. For all I know that fuel is actually methanol. It's worth a try at least.

edit: Methanol works fine:

 

[OldMedUser]

edit: Methanol works fine:

That's what I'm burning in my alcohol lamp. Methanol aka methyl hydrate aka wood alcohol.

 

[2com]

Ain't nothing wrong with naptha. It's worth putting up with the smell to have no open flame. Luckily you don't have to because zippo sells a special ultra refined fuel that doesn't smell bad specifically designed for the handwarmers, not their lighters. For all I know that fuel is actually methanol. It's worth a try at least.

edit: Methanol works fine:

I've known about those warmers, catalytic warmers, aren't they (labeled as, sometimes)? Anyway, cool idea.
So, a co2 gen/propane burner is just that; it burns propane gas and a by product is co2? Bout to spark up the bbq in the room and just let that run. Haha.
I really need a meter, jokes aside. No clue of co2 levels.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

I've known about those warmers, catalytic warmers, aren't they (labeled as, sometimes)? Anyway, cool idea.
So, a co2 gen/propane burner is just that; it burns propane gas and a by product is co2? Bout to spark up the bbq in the room and just let that run. Haha.
I really need a meter, jokes aside. No clue of co2 levels.

Yeah. My CO2 meter went to 1300ppm all of a sudden the other day and I realized it was the roofers melting tar with a big propane torch.

You could also just get an old antique style oil lamp.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

I really need a meter, jokes aside. No clue of co2 levels.

https://www.amazon.com/Baugger-Air-Quality-Tester-Multifunctional/dp/B081XXS4GL/

 

[OldMedUser]

You could also just get an old antique style oil lamp.

I wouldn't recommend one of those. They are made for kerosene which has a much higher viscosity than methanol and don't seal well around the wick which would present more of a fire hazard. Evaporation would be pretty high with methanol in it too so it would probably use near as much fuel when off than when lit. We have a few of them up at the old family cabin and always leave one burning on the porch real low for nighttime trips out to the biffy. Just turn the wick up a bit to find your way in the dark.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

I wouldn't recommend one of those. They are made for kerosene which has a much higher viscosity than methanol and don't seal well around the wick which would present more of a fire hazard. Evaporation would be pretty high with methanol in it too so it would probably use near as much fuel when off than when lit. We have a few of them up at the old family cabin and always leave one burning on the porch real low for nighttime trips out to the biffy. Just turn the wick up a bit to find your way in the dark.

View attachment 4452457

Literally everything you said is wrong. Oil lamps use lamp oil. You're smoking crack.

 

[OldMedUser]

Literally everything you said is wrong. Oil lamps use lamp oil. You're smoking crack.

Lamp oil you get in those little bottles for in your house is deodorized/dyed kerosene dude and you don't have to be rude about it. We bought the regular coal oil in bulk like the white gas, (Naphtha), that we kept up at the cabin. No power up there still so we even have a propane powered fridge, a gas stove/oven with a wood burner on the side along with a small airtight to keep the place warm.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

Lamp oil you get in those little bottles for in your house is deodorized/dyed kerosene dude and you don't have to be rude about it. We bought the regular coal oil in bulk like the white gas, (Naphtha), that we kept up at the cabin. No power up there still so we even have a propane powered fridge, a gas stove/oven with a wood burner on the side along with a small airtight to keep the place warm.

No it isn't. It's paraffin oil otherwise known as mineral oil or baby oil. It has a longer carbon chain than K1 kerosene. I majored in chemical engineering, and you're smoking crack.

 

[OldMedUser]

6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Basically the same thing and from the same source and you're still being an a-hole. Get out of your mother's basement and interact with real people once in a while.

What is the Difference Between Kerosene and Paraffin?

Unsure about the difference between kerosene and paraffin? Here is what you need to know about the subtle but important differences. Learn more

www.nationwidefuels.co.uk

Paraffin tends to be a more refined and distilled version of kerosene. This makes it more suitable for use within the home.
Paraffin is more refined, which ensures that it will produce a lot less soot when it’s burnt. This is important for those who would have (and of course still continue to use in more remote areas) for stoves and in a lamps to light their homes.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Basically the same thing and from the same source and you're still being an a-hole. Get out of your mother's basement and interact with real people once in a while.

What is the Difference Between Kerosene and Paraffin?

Unsure about the difference between kerosene and paraffin? Here is what you need to know about the subtle but important differences. Learn more

www.nationwidefuels.co.uk

Paraffin tends to be a more refined and distilled version of kerosene. This makes it more suitable for use within the home.
Paraffin is more refined, which ensures that it will produce a lot less soot when it’s burnt. This is important for those who would have (and of course still continue to use in more remote areas) for stoves and in a lamps to light their homes.

View attachment 4453093

Yeah, they're both distilled crude oil, but they're not the same thing. Lamp oil does not smell. You are smoking crack.

 

[OldMedUser]

Yeah, they're both distilled crude oil, but they're not the same thing. Lamp oil does not smell. You are smoking crack.

What is your obsession with smoking crack? You jonesing for a hit or what? I've never used crack and don't use any meds other than pot and an occasional aspirin.

You obviously didn't read the article at the link. Hate being proven even half wrong. Typical momma's boy. Only child too I bet.

Whatever. I'm done with this.

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

You seem awfully defensive about smoking crack. Probably because you smoke so much crack.

Lamp oil is not kerosene, that's why there are multiple web pages explaining the difference between the two. Kerosene has fucking benzene in it. It smells like Satan's asshole. Baby oil has no smell and you can literally slather it all over your baby without giving it cancer. Huge fucking difference.

 

[2com]

You could also just get an old antique style oil lamp.

I wouldn't recommend one of those. They are made for kerosene which has a much higher viscosity than methanol and don't seal well around the wick which would present more of a fire hazard. Evaporation would be pretty high with methanol in it too so it would probably use near as much fuel when off than when lit. We have a few of them up at the old family cabin and always leave one burning on the porch real low for nighttime trips out to the biffy. Just turn the wick up a bit to find your way in the dark.

View attachment 4452457

Literally everything you said is wrong. Oil lamps use lamp oil. You're smoking crack.

We have a few of them up at the old family cabin...

Wrong.

...and always leave one burning on the porch real low for nighttime trips out to the biffy.

Wrong.

Just turn the wick up a bit to find your way in the dark.

Wrong.

Lamp oil you get in those little bottles for in your house is deodorized/dyed kerosene dude and you don't have to be rude about it.
...

No it isn't. It's paraffin oil otherwise known as mineral oil or baby oil. It has a longer carbon chain than K1 kerosene. I majored in chemical engineering, and you're smoking crack.

6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Basically the same thing and from the same source and you're still being an a-hole. Get out of your mother's basement and interact with real people once in a while.

What is the Difference Between Kerosene and Paraffin?

Unsure about the difference between kerosene and paraffin? Here is what you need to know about the subtle but important differences. Learn more

www.nationwidefuels.co.uk

Paraffin tends to be a more refined and distilled version of kerosene. This makes it more suitable for use within the home.
Paraffin is more refined, which ensures that it will produce a lot less soot when it’s burnt. This is important for those who would have (and of course still continue to use in more remote areas) for stoves and in a lamps to light their homes.

View attachment 4453093

Yeah, they're both distilled crude oil, but they're not the same thing. Lamp oil does not smell. You are smoking crack.

Kerosene lamp - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

@OldMedUser I hope you get help with your addiction man, sorry to hear about it. I fear that, if this man's theories are correct, we may all indeed....be crack smoking crack smokers - who knows?

Wait...

What is your obsession with smoking crack? You jonesing for a hit or what? I've never used crack and don't use any meds other than pot and an occasional aspirin.

You obviously didn't read the article at the link. Hate being proven even half wrong. Typical momma's boy. Only child too I bet.

Whatever. I'm done with this.

You seem awfully defensive about smoking crack. Probably because you smoke so much crack.

Lamp oil is not kerosene, that's why there are multiple web pages explaining the difference between the two. Kerosene has fucking benzene in it. It smells like Satan's asshole. Baby oil has no smell and you can literally slather it all over your baby without giving it cancer. Huge fucking difference.

...And it's reached insane levels.
I'm just trying to add to the humor.