Looking for a narrow/tall grow tent

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
I’m looking online but struggling to find the size I need.

can anyone recommend a tent that comes in a size that is 200-230cm height 80cm max width and 150cm max length?

im based in Europe too so only have access to tents available here.

cheers
 
I’m looking online but struggling to find the size I need.

can anyone recommend a tent that comes in a size that is 200-230cm height 80cm max width and 150cm max length?

im based in Europe too so only have access to tents available here.

cheers
look on ebay,, they got a big selection , n great prices
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Not tryna bust your chops but you almost never find the best deal on ebay anymore, haven't in a long time, unless you are buying used from a private seller.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I’m looking online but struggling to find the size I need.

can anyone recommend a tent that comes in a size that is 200-230cm height 80cm max width and 150cm max length?

im based in Europe too so only have access to tents available here.

cheers
Common sizes usually work in either 3ft or 4ft or 1m multiples. Most manufacturers stick to that but I see some weird sizes on the other side of the pond mentioned.

Black orchid do a 120cmx60cm x2m if that's any use. Most do that size but BO are a lot nicer than your average cheap tent and not much more expensive.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Yeah I found the black orchid one. I just need a decent sized tent that will fit my tiny space available to hang plants to dry in. I’m tempted to make my own but I’m not sure how I’ll close up all holes and make it air tight apart from intake and out take.

I currently dry on racks but want to start hanging hole plants. Can’t work out how much space I need to hang 90 plants.. each plant takes up 1 sqft when alive, I assume when hung upside down they suddenly take less space
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I assume you would remove all fan leaves before hanging which would help reduce space but 90 plants is a fair bit of space.

I would build one so you can make use of every square inch of your space. It doesn't have to be air tight if you vent it and scrub , the air will go in one direction.

I would probably knock together a frame and plaster board it on all but the front and then dry line it and seal it with a primer sealer. Then look at what sort of door you can put on. You might be able to pick up some visqueen with zipper like this
Related image
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Maybe think about hanging branches rather than whole plant, by my workings if you fit 3x6 plants on 4 levels your still only at 72 plants. I would be a bit worried about packing that many in , though I admit I have never tried drying that way.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Maybe think about hanging branches rather than whole plant, by my workings if you fit 3x6 plants on 4 levels your still only at 72 plants. I would be a bit worried about packing that many in , though I admit I have never tried drying that way.
I want the air tight bit as I want to have such an airflow that I can make sure all buds have air being sucked from around them. If there are holes from all over the tent I’m not sure air will flow around all buds?
Is there a way to seal the plasterboard enough so that I get this effect I am after? I will have a big enough fan to create negative pressure on a tent. Not sure how it would work on plasterboard
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
I want the air tight bit as I want to have such an airflow that I can make sure all buds have air being sucked from around them. If there are holes from all over the tent I’m not sure air will flow around all buds?
Is there a way to seal the plasterboard enough so that I get this effect I am after? I will have a big enough fan to create negative pressure on a tent. Not sure how it would work on plasterboard
Yes so you would build your frame from 2x2 or 2x4 and apply plaster board with screws, caulk all corners and then scrim tape over any joints where two flat boards meet, then apply a filler over the scrim tape and lightly sand, doesn't matter much since asthetics is not an issue, then use a lining paper, any thickness. Once that's done and dry, the next day, paint it to seal it, I would want it fully wipeable so I would use either a water based eggshell or silk which should stop anything growing on the walls. At that point your air tight apart from your door.

If you have an intake and an extractor then air is going to flow in as straight a line as it can, personally I would add a few pc fans with one of those voltage adjustable power packs, that way you are directing air slightly without blowing a wind across your plants.

Negative air pressure will still exist with a rigid wall.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Yes so you would build your frame from 2x2 or 2x4 and apply plaster board with screws, caulk all corners and then scrim tape over any joints where two flat boards meet, then apply a filler over the scrim tape and lightly sand, doesn't matter much since asthetics is not an issue, then use a lining paper, any thickness. Once that's done and dry, the next day, paint it to seal it, I would want it fully wipeable so I would use either a water based eggshell or silk which should stop anything growing on the walls. At that point your air tight apart from your door.

If you have an intake and an extractor then air is going to flow in as straight a line as it can, personally I would add a few pc fans with one of those voltage adjustable power packs, that way you are directing air slightly without blowing a wind across your plants.

Negative air pressure will still exist with a rigid wall.
you really think it needs painting etc? I was gonna just plasterboard the outside and leave the studs exposed on the inside. That way I have studs I can easily screw string too.

I could easily design the box to be the size so that I don’t have to cut the plasterboard this way too
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
you really think it needs painting etc? I was gonna just plasterboard the outside and leave the studs exposed on the inside. That way I have studs I can easily screw string too.

I could easily design the box to be the size so that I don’t have to cut the plasterboard this way too
Yeah if you don't seal it (paint it) your asking for mould and once its there you wont be able to clean it properly.
If its sealed it can be washed, a porous surface is the last thing you want and the easiest thing for mould to impregnate plus the humidity will degrade the plaster board, damp plaster board will have to be replaced.

Do it right and it will last a long time, do it wrong and it will need replacing in less than a year.

With 8x4 sheets , that's around 2.4x1.2m you would need to cut it and joint it if you want to maximise your 230cm height and 150cm width.
Though the scrim tape and filling might be a bit excessive, 1200 grade lining will hold those joints in place and would likely do the job.

Any old wood saw will give you a clean easy cut.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
Yeah if you don't seal it (paint it) your asking for mould and once its there you wont be able to clean it properly.
If its sealed it can be washed, a porous surface is the last thing you want and the easiest thing for mould to impregnate plus the humidity will degrade the plaster board, damp plaster board will have to be replaced.

Do it right and it will last a long time, do it wrong and it will need replacing in less than a year.

With 8x4 sheets , that's around 2.4x1.2m you would need to cut it and joint it if you want to maximise your 230cm height and 150cm width.
Though the scrim tape and filling might be a bit excessive, 1200 grade lining will hold those joints in place and would likely do the job.

Any old wood saw will give you a clean easy cut.
After you’ve painted and sealed how would you go about hanging the string? Would screwing into the drywall cause air leaks? And how would you go about doing the intake and outtake holes
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
After you’ve painted and sealed how would you go about hanging the string? Would screwing into the drywall cause air leaks? And how would you go about doing the intake and outtake holes
You can as you suggested have the frame inside so you can add smaller thinner wood across those main supports to screw to or wrap around string.
Depends on the size of the hole, a 4" hole cutter is easy but not worth buying if you don't have one or want a 6" hole . In that case you can either machine gun a hole using a drill or just drill a hole and use a jigsaw. If you don't have one you can pick one up dirt cheap these days.
 

SamWE19

Well-Known Member
You can as you suggested have the frame inside so you can add smaller thinner wood across those main supports to screw to or wrap around string.
Depends on the size of the hole, a 4" hole cutter is easy but not worth buying if you don't have one or want a 6" hole . In that case you can either machine gun a hole using a drill or just drill a hole and use a jigsaw. If you don't have one you can pick one up dirt cheap these days.
You wouldn’t double layer the drywall then? Drywall on each side of the stud
 
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Nizza

Well-Known Member
maybe some of these?

the best part of boxes is when you are done they collapse you can cut in vents and add fans custom!
 
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SamWE19

Well-Known Member
I’d need quite a few of those and would need an extraction fan for each individual one. Needs to be one entire structure really
 
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