look on ebay,, they got a big selection , n great pricesI’m looking online but struggling to find the size I need.
can anyone recommend a tent that comes in a size that is 200-230cm height 80cm max width and 150cm max length?
im based in Europe too so only have access to tents available here.
cheers
does everyone here criticize everything some one is doing or tryn to doebay is so 90's. lol
Common sizes usually work in either 3ft or 4ft or 1m multiples. Most manufacturers stick to that but I see some weird sizes on the other side of the pond mentioned.I’m looking online but struggling to find the size I need.
can anyone recommend a tent that comes in a size that is 200-230cm height 80cm max width and 150cm max length?
im based in Europe too so only have access to tents available here.
cheers
I want the air tight bit as I want to have such an airflow that I can make sure all buds have air being sucked from around them. If there are holes from all over the tent I’m not sure air will flow around all buds?Maybe think about hanging branches rather than whole plant, by my workings if you fit 3x6 plants on 4 levels your still only at 72 plants. I would be a bit worried about packing that many in , though I admit I have never tried drying that way.
Yes so you would build your frame from 2x2 or 2x4 and apply plaster board with screws, caulk all corners and then scrim tape over any joints where two flat boards meet, then apply a filler over the scrim tape and lightly sand, doesn't matter much since asthetics is not an issue, then use a lining paper, any thickness. Once that's done and dry, the next day, paint it to seal it, I would want it fully wipeable so I would use either a water based eggshell or silk which should stop anything growing on the walls. At that point your air tight apart from your door.I want the air tight bit as I want to have such an airflow that I can make sure all buds have air being sucked from around them. If there are holes from all over the tent I’m not sure air will flow around all buds?
Is there a way to seal the plasterboard enough so that I get this effect I am after? I will have a big enough fan to create negative pressure on a tent. Not sure how it would work on plasterboard
you really think it needs painting etc? I was gonna just plasterboard the outside and leave the studs exposed on the inside. That way I have studs I can easily screw string too.Yes so you would build your frame from 2x2 or 2x4 and apply plaster board with screws, caulk all corners and then scrim tape over any joints where two flat boards meet, then apply a filler over the scrim tape and lightly sand, doesn't matter much since asthetics is not an issue, then use a lining paper, any thickness. Once that's done and dry, the next day, paint it to seal it, I would want it fully wipeable so I would use either a water based eggshell or silk which should stop anything growing on the walls. At that point your air tight apart from your door.
If you have an intake and an extractor then air is going to flow in as straight a line as it can, personally I would add a few pc fans with one of those voltage adjustable power packs, that way you are directing air slightly without blowing a wind across your plants.
Negative air pressure will still exist with a rigid wall.
Yeah if you don't seal it (paint it) your asking for mould and once its there you wont be able to clean it properly.you really think it needs painting etc? I was gonna just plasterboard the outside and leave the studs exposed on the inside. That way I have studs I can easily screw string too.
I could easily design the box to be the size so that I don’t have to cut the plasterboard this way too
After you’ve painted and sealed how would you go about hanging the string? Would screwing into the drywall cause air leaks? And how would you go about doing the intake and outtake holesYeah if you don't seal it (paint it) your asking for mould and once its there you wont be able to clean it properly.
If its sealed it can be washed, a porous surface is the last thing you want and the easiest thing for mould to impregnate plus the humidity will degrade the plaster board, damp plaster board will have to be replaced.
Do it right and it will last a long time, do it wrong and it will need replacing in less than a year.
With 8x4 sheets , that's around 2.4x1.2m you would need to cut it and joint it if you want to maximise your 230cm height and 150cm width.
Though the scrim tape and filling might be a bit excessive, 1200 grade lining will hold those joints in place and would likely do the job.
Any old wood saw will give you a clean easy cut.
You can as you suggested have the frame inside so you can add smaller thinner wood across those main supports to screw to or wrap around string.After you’ve painted and sealed how would you go about hanging the string? Would screwing into the drywall cause air leaks? And how would you go about doing the intake and outtake holes
You wouldn’t double layer the drywall then? Drywall on each side of the studYou can as you suggested have the frame inside so you can add smaller thinner wood across those main supports to screw to or wrap around string.
Depends on the size of the hole, a 4" hole cutter is easy but not worth buying if you don't have one or want a 6" hole . In that case you can either machine gun a hole using a drill or just drill a hole and use a jigsaw. If you don't have one you can pick one up dirt cheap these days.
No not when maximum space is required.You wouldn’t double layer the drywall then? Drywall on each side of the stud
On the inside then how would you paint/seal between the stud and the plasterboard? Where the stud is sat over the plasterboardNo not when maximum space is required.