First time AUTOFLOWERING! Give me your lights guys!..Enlighten Me!

Ty574

New Member
Hi all guys!..
First of all i am a coco synthetic nutrition grower..
Well, i have never grown autos before cause of the lower level of thc due to the ruderalis mix but now, i must do a quick run cause i leave my home and move to a new place and i must run 9x bubba kush from humboldt which i found they are the best for me based on the numbers they give..
So i have 2 specific questions(nothing else :bigjoint: ):
1st: In these 70 days(10 weeks) strain..Which weeks are veg,which are transmission and which are flowering weeks?
and the
2nd: Can i TOP ONCE and LST ONCE in this VEG available time? Also can i DEFOLIATE(at day 20 from transmisson as i do on feminized?)

Thank you in advane brothers!
Keep it flowering!
:joint::joint::joint:
E.C.
bongsmilie

@Hydro4life
T hey usualluy start to flower at 30 days i use 18 6 ligjting to.cut down on power and found it the best. Also once they are in the pot leave them alone they are picky. Do nog trans plant. Or top supercrop etc. The only thing i would di is bend branches as they get pretty bushy and will let ligjt in. Also be careful with nutes. Only add during flower and go light. I use roots organicd. Hope t that helped
.
 

Ty574

New Member
On the bold, I bought a years worth of seeds from Mephisto during their Black Friday Sale. Most of the strains that I bought were 40-50 percent off. With the freebies they came out to around $3 a seed. Not bad for 3-4 zips of good smoke.
I do agree with budzzbuddha where autoflowers are much better than what they used to be. Have seen some big dank autos. But always makes me wonder what if they were feminized? Or a regular female? (Regular female Meant to yield slightly more than feminised. But who knows really lol) ive seen an outdoor gorilla grow using autos. Great for that i think as you arent at the mercy of daylight hours. But must of cost a small fortune in seeds!! Ive never bothered with autos as i predominantly grow indoors and have total control over my environment. If the plant has had an issue i can just veg for another week! As far as i know with autos they flower when mature enough no matter the health of the plant at the time. I imagine if you top the plant then growth will slow very slightly (high stress) resulting in a slightly lower yield as the plant wont grow as big. Where as a photoperiod plant you can just veg for an extra day or two. The other thing i personally dont like about autos is you cant clone them. And the possibility of less thc. (Some strains/breeders more than others) but like everything when growing, it all comes down to the individuals set up and doing the best they can with what they have. So each to their own this is just my opinion on why i dont grow autos bro.
Do not top autos they are super picky.
 

MATTYMATT726

Well-Known Member
T hey usualluy start to flower at 30 days i use 18 6 ligjting to.cut down on power and found it the best. Also once they are in the pot leave them alone they are picky. Do nog trans plant. Or top supercrop etc. The only thing i would di is bend branches as they get pretty bushy and will let ligjt in. Also be careful with nutes. Only add during flower and go light. I use roots organicd. Hope t that helped
.
So much of this is not good i information. A really good EXPERIENCED grower by the name of McStrats has a nice big thread called "so you can't transplant autos" dispelling this myth. Toppi g works wonders if healthy plant that has 4-5 nodes by atleast 21 days with over a week to recover and with such a short veg time why in gods name would you not give nutes in this limited time? Horrible advise.
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
So much of this is not good i information. A really good EXPERIENCED grower by the name of McStrats has a nice big thread called "so you can't transplant autos" dispelling this myth. Toppi g works wonders if healthy plant that has 4-5 nodes by atleast 21 days with over a week to recover and with such a short veg time why in gods name would you not give nutes in this limited time? Horrible advise.
Can’t comment on the topping side of things with autos as I’m currently growing my 1st auto (untopped) I’ve been growing photos for years and have a northern lights feminised and a northern lights feminised auto growing side by side. both from sensi seeds. (I know it’s not an exact comparison as different phenos come into play) but I have noticed the auto seems to be more nitrogen sensitive (especially when flowering) than pretty much all other photo periods I’ve grown (probably around 1000 in the last 7 odd years) and its starting to display calcium and phosphorus deficiencies (not from a lack of) ph has been spot on so I’d say it’s a lockout from requiring less nutes, boosters, cal/mag etc. that I don’t otherwise get with photos...... maybe it’s this pheno in particular? But definitely have to keep feeding light and simple with this auto!!
 

MATTYMATT726

Well-Known Member
Can’t comment on the topping side of things with autos as I’m currently growing my 1st auto (untopped) I’ve been growing photos for years and have a northern lights feminised and a northern lights feminised auto growing side by side. both from sensi seeds. (I know it’s not an exact comparison as different phenos come into play) but I have noticed the auto seems to be more nitrogen sensitive (especially when flowering) than pretty much all other photo periods I’ve grown (probably around 1000 in the last 7 odd years) and its starting to display calcium and phosphorus deficiencies (not from a lack of) ph has been spot on so I’d say it’s a lockout from requiring less nutes, boosters, cal/mag etc. that I don’t otherwise get with photos...... maybe it’s this pheno in particular? But definitely have to keep feeding light and simple with this auto!!
Lite nutes for autos yeah, I've not seen anyone arguing this but no nutes in veg/first 30 days is way different than that. Im sure you can get away with that if he wants but by no means have i ever seen that used with auto growers till this post.
 

CikaBika

Well-Known Member
Lite nutes for autos yeah, I've not seen anyone arguing this but no nutes in veg/first 30 days is way different than that. Im sure you can get away with that if he wants but by no means have i ever seen that used with auto growers till this post.
I use pre fert soil and just water for first 4 weeks..
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
All I do is some leaf tucking and I consistently get 3-4 zips in 3 gallon smart pots filled with Promix. I did a couple of autos in DWC last year, but they were to big for my tent.
I've just discovered something that really is a game changer, and that is while testing my new DIY easy build SWC (not DWC). But I have an orange bud auto at 12 weeks and it looks like a typical indica compact with stiff, hard to bend without breaking, branches, DSC_9255.jpg here she is at 6 weeks OB-round-6wk.jpg in my new diy test with the mars tsl 2000 which so far I'm liking a lot, there's two more orange bud autos currently at about 6 weeks,OB-square-6wk.jpg from the same sealed packet from DP, yet they appear to be showing all the sativa growing traits of long willowing bendy branches, although the leaves are still broad here's their branch structureOB-6week-breanches.jpg they won't look like this at 12 weeks that's for sure OB-round-12wk-branches.jpg . What to make of this I'm still trying to understand. I cannot make anything of it for the moment I need to do more investigation but it does show the variation that one can get without changing anything much or anything at all. Both the older and younger grows are under very similar conditions. So I'm pretty excited to see what these plants in my DIY build look like in flower, the leaves were the biggest I've seen over 3 inches wide on the main middle leaf.leaf.jpg

So my aim now is to crack the puzzle as to what caused this difference when I work that out I'll have uncovered some useful information, and this is the only way to work your way through all the bullshite, you simply have to trust someone who really knows because they have demonstrated it, or you have to do it for yourself. Advice from any other source unless it's absolutely hard science done at doctorate level and published in peer reviewed science journals like Nature, not 'growers monthly magazine' or published on arXiv preprint server.

But I can say that with regard to quality of bud there's absolutely no difference at all between using what people on these boards would call a 'shit light' like a viparspectra and something like a QB96 Elite. This might sound like a shocking claim and I'm not going to defend it against idiotic trolls because I can see for myself. I prefer the QB's because I've moved away from focused 90 degree beams, prefer a diffused light souce, so far the QB96 Elites are my go to light because they are small and light if you locate the driver separately and I like to endlessly fiddle with placement and angle. The only difference is that the QB's might be a bit more efficient. Also I might have to go back yet agin and get a tiny cheap viparspectra for the first 2-3 weeks just to test a little hypothesis I want to try out. You see I'd like to grow a structure that is halfway between my two different orange bud grows.

If you're growing for personal use so you are paying dollars per zip rather than hundreds of dollars per zip then who seriously give much of a fuck about spending another 30 bucks on electricity over the course of a grow. If you're growing commercial quality then of course it a different story.

It's almost impossible to buy a genuinely shit light these days, you'd have to really work hard to find one. So yeah lights are not that important as long as you haven't spent two months searching for a second hand blurple from about 10 years ago. That doesn't mean you can grow with a 10W downlight (it does to trolls of course), but this is what I mean when I said hydro compared to soil is a bigger consideration depending on your aim. If your aim is to grow organic dope then grow in soil, if you're aim is to increase yeild and reduce the problems that plague soil growers then hydro is a no brainer, if you do it right.
 

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Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
Lite nutes for autos yeah, I've not seen anyone arguing this but no nutes in veg/first 30 days is way different than that. Im sure you can get away with that if he wants but by no means have i ever seen that used with auto growers till this post.
Hahaha doesn’t make sense to me either Matty. Not in hydro anyway. Lol
 

Hydro4life

Well-Known Member
I've just discovered something that really is a game changer, and that is while testing my new DIY easy build SWC (not DWC). But I have an orange bud auto at 12 weeks and it looks like a typical indica compact with stiff, hard to bend without breaking, branches, View attachment 4366183 here she is at 6 weeks View attachment 4366174 in my new diy test with the mars tsl 2000 which so far I'm liking a lot, there's two more orange bud autos currently at about 6 weeks,View attachment 4366179 from the same sealed packet from DP, yet they appear to be showing all the sativa growing traits of long willowing bendy branches, although the leaves are still broad here's their branch structureView attachment 4366180 they won't look like this at 12 weeks that's for sure View attachment 4366181 . What to make of this I'm still trying to understand. I cannot make anything of it for the moment I need to do more investigation but it does show the variation that one can get without changing anything much or anything at all. Both the older and younger grows are under very similar conditions. So I'm pretty excited to see what these plants in my DIY build look like in flower, the leaves were the biggest I've seen over 3 inches wide on the main middle leaf.View attachment 4366186

So my aim now is to crack the puzzle as to what caused this difference when I work that out I'll have uncovered some useful information, and this is the only way to work your way through all the bullshite, you simply have to trust someone who really knows because they have demonstrated it, or you have to do it for yourself. Advice from any other source unless it's absolutely hard science done at doctorate level and published in peer reviewed science journals like Nature, not 'growers monthly magazine' or published on arXiv preprint server.

But I can say that with regard to quality of bud there's absolutely no difference at all between using what people on these boards would call a 'shit light' like a viparspectra and something like a QB96 Elite. This might sound like a shocking claim and I'm not going to defend it against idiotic trolls because I can see for myself. I prefer the QB's because I've moved away from focused 90 degree beams, prefer a diffused light souce, so far the QB96 Elites are my go to light because they are small and light if you locate the driver separately and I like to endlessly fiddle with placement and angle. The only difference is that the QB's might be a bit more efficient. Also I might have to go back yet agin and get a tiny cheap viparspectra for the first 2-3 weeks just to test a little hypothesis I want to try out. You see I'd like to grow a structure that is halfway between my two different orange bud grows.

If you're growing for personal use so you are paying dollars per zip rather than hundreds of dollars per zip then who seriously give much of a fuck about spending another 30 bucks on electricity over the course of a grow. If you're growing commercial quality then of course it a different story.

It's almost impossible to buy a genuinely shit light these days, you'd have to really work hard to find one. So yeah lights are not that important as long as you haven't spent two months searching for a second hand blurple from about 10 years ago. That doesn't mean you can grow with a 10W downlight (it does to trolls of course), but this is what I mean when I said hydro compared to soil is a bigger consideration depending on your aim. If your aim is to grow organic dope then grow in soil, if you're aim is to increase yeild and reduce the problems that plague soil growers then hydro is a no brainer, if you do it right.
Nice grow you got going there yummy fur!
I’ve given up trying to figure out how different strains/phenos grow. I’ve had some that veg like indicas then stretch like a sativa (like blue dream) and some phenos grow sativa structured buds that are dense like indicas and vice versa, some strains/phenos that grow sativa looking buds but give an indica stone etc. and unfortunately when growing autos you can’t find the pheno of your dreams and keep it going like a photoperiod and clone the shit out of it! But maybe that’s part of the fun when growing from seed!?
As for lighting I still grow a bit old school and use mh and hps hid lights. I find the more power draw the bigger the harvest (within reason) and have had my best yields/quality from mixing the 2 light spectrums.
And definitely agree with ya on the soil/hydro side of things!! 8-)
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Nice grow you got going there yummy fur!
I’ve given up trying to figure out how different strains/phenos grow. I’ve had some that veg like indicas then stretch like a sativa (like blue dream) and some phenos grow sativa structured buds that are dense like indicas and vice versa, some strains/phenos that grow sativa looking buds but give an indica stone etc. and unfortunately when growing autos you can’t find the pheno of your dreams and keep it going like a photoperiod and clone the shit out of it! But maybe that’s part of the fun when growing from seed!?
As for lighting I still grow a bit old school and use mh and hps hid lights. I find the more power draw the bigger the harvest (within reason) and have had my best yields/quality from mixing the 2 light spectrums.
And definitely agree with ya on the soil/hydro side of things!! 8-)
These are all very true words my friend.
 
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