Organic Soil

[Groat21]

If your trying to follow Clackamas's recipe, stay away from high P inputs like fish bone meal.

Ok, I only have a couple of pounds. Just curious as the reason to this though, thanks!

Also, what about the alfalfa? Maybe just do it as the tea, as coot suggested?

 

[MustangStudFarm]

Ok, I only have a couple of pounds. Just curious as the reason to this though, thanks!

Also, what about the alfalfa? Maybe just do it as the tea, as coot suggested?

My keyboard broke...

I've been testing my soil for about 3yrs and P is always excessive! Thats what got me into Clack, he addressed high P. P will inhibit mycorrhizal growth. High N or P will prevent root exudes from forming by the plant. High N will hinder brix levels. You want high K and lower N for higher brix #'s.

 

[MustangStudFarm]

Ok, I only have a couple of pounds. Just curious as the reason to this though, thanks!

Also, what about the alfalfa? Maybe just do it as the tea, as coot suggested?

FAA fish amino acids help chelate micronutrients, best way to use fish. I have a foliar spray made of FAA and micronutrients.

 

[Groat21]

FAA fish amino acids help chelate micronutrients, best way to use fish. I have a foliar spray made of FAA and micronutrients.

Is there any way to do that with the fish bone meal? Or should I just use it on my outdoor gardens/lawn lol

And do you think I should stick to alfalfa in a tea/spray over adding it directly to the soil? Like you said, I don’t want to overdo the N, but I think you get most of the sapanins from the alfalfa that way. Then I’ll just toss it in the worm bin anyways to recycle it.

 

[MustangStudFarm]

Is there any way to do that with the fish bone meal? Or should I just use it on my outdoor gardens/lawn lol

And do you think I should stick to alfalfa in a tea/spray over adding it directly to the soil? Like you said, I don’t want to overdo the N, but I think you get most of the sapanins from the alfalfa that way. Then I’ll just toss it in the worm bin anyways to recycle it.

https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=soil+savvy+soil+test+kit&pd_rd_i=B01GIMOG8A&pd_rd_r=364e875d-7575-4282-bfae-7d8accd35052&pd_rd_w=M7X88&pd_rd_wg=4vn3r&pf_rd_p=f0479f98-a32d-45cd-9c12-7aaced42b1ec&pf_rd_r=CHSN88XDV0HC0SX75RZ7&qid=1558388491&s=gateway
I have been making adjustments from soil testing.

Let me get on my other comp so i can type

 

[MustangStudFarm]

Is there any way to do that with the fish bone meal? Or should I just use it on my outdoor gardens/lawn lol

And do you think I should stick to alfalfa in a tea/spray over adding it directly to the soil? Like you said, I don’t want to overdo the N, but I think you get most of the sapanins from the alfalfa that way. Then I’ll just toss it in the worm bin anyways to recycle it.

Didn't you already do a soil test? I have CRS. Can't Remember Shit...

I still use alfalfa in my soil because my compost is usually low in N. For a foliar spray, I been having luck with a micronutrient spray. The FAA is fish that has been broken down by bacteria and it has a lot more of the enzymes intact.

 

[MustangStudFarm]

I've seen people use this epsoma tomato tone stuff. What is the advantage to using it over other amendments?

It's cheaper. It's all slaughter house based amendments. My dogs LOVED it, so it might cause problems.

 

[MustangStudFarm]

Here is a few of my soil tests that I have had. I have more, but I think that this is enough for now. They always come back low in Mn if not more micronutrients. These are all based on Clackamas's recipe, but I kept making adjustments. What I have learned about composting is that you need to add Mn inputs and woody material to make humic acid, which will help chelate the micronutrients. Hyroot was the one that told me that red wheat bran has a lot of Mn, and it's cheap when you buy bulk. It just turns into a science experiment fermenting everything. I always like science though. I made them thumbnails because they expand a lot better.

Here is my compost:


This is compost from a landscaping store:


I got the N-P-K down, but I also wasn't using compost.

 

[Groat21]

https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Savvy-Understand-Fertilizer-Recommendation/dp/B01GIMOG8A/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=soil+savvy+soil+test+kit&pd_rd_i=B01GIMOG8A&pd_rd_r=364e875d-7575-4282-bfae-7d8accd35052&pd_rd_w=M7X88&pd_rd_wg=4vn3r&pf_rd_p=f0479f98-a32d-45cd-9c12-7aaced42b1ec&pf_rd_r=CHSN88XDV0HC0SX75RZ7&qid=1558388491&s=gateway
I have been making adjustments from soil testing.

Let me get on my other comp so i can type

I can’t seem to find that on amazon.ca, and they don’t deliver to Canada, unfortunately.

Didn't you already do a soil test? I have CRS. Can't Remember Shit...

I still use alfalfa in my soil because my compost is usually low in N. For a foliar spray, I been having luck with a micronutrient spray. The FAA is fish that has been broken down by bacteria and it has a lot more of the enzymes intact.

I have not done a soil test, I haven’t even made my soil yet, and my homemade compost and worm castings aren’t finished yet. I intend to do so once I have it set up, and make adjustments from there.

Here is a few of my soil tests that I have had. I have more, but I think that this is enough for now. They always come back low in Mn if not more micronutrients. These are all based on Clackamas's recipe, but I kept making adjustments. What I have learned about composting is that you need to add Mn inputs and woody material to make humic acid, which will help chelate the micronutrients. Hyroot was the one that told me that red wheat bran has a lot of Mn, and it's cheap when you buy bulk. It just turns into a science experiment fermenting everything. I always like science though. I made them thumbnails because they expand a lot better.

Here is my compost:
View attachment 4336668

This is compost from a landscaping store:
View attachment 4336669

I got the N-P-K down, but I also wasn't using compost.
View attachment 4336671

I’ve also heard of the lack of magnesium in the soil, as cannabis likes a bit higher levels. Red wheat bran, you say? I think I can get that where I got my malted barley from.

Thanks!

 

[MustangStudFarm]

I can’t seem to find that on amazon.ca, and they don’t deliver to Canada, unfortunately.


I have not done a soil test, I haven’t even made my soil yet, and my homemade compost and worm castings aren’t finished yet. I intend to do so once I have it set up, and make adjustments from there.


I’ve also heard of the lack of magnesium in the soil, as cannabis likes a bit higher levels. Red wheat bran, you say? I think I can get that where I got my malted barley from.

Thanks!

I've never had Mg problems, it's easy to add compared to micronutrients. You get plenty of Mg from rock dust. The one that I am big on now is Greensand, it has K and Mn and you should use it if you are using peat and compost. I think that dolomite and gypsum are useless.

If you really wanted to test your soil, I'm sure that you could find a place that does the Mehlich 3 and saturated paste test. You probably want to do both and mention to the lab that you are using a lightweight medium. The most popular labs in the US is Logan Labs and Spectrum Analytic.

 

[Wetdog]

I can’t seem to find that on amazon.ca, and they don’t deliver to Canada, unfortunately.


I have not done a soil test, I haven’t even made my soil yet, and my homemade compost and worm castings aren’t finished yet. I intend to do so once I have it set up, and make adjustments from there.


I’ve also heard of the lack of magnesium in the soil, as cannabis likes a bit higher levels. Red wheat bran, you say? I think I can get that where I got my malted barley from.

Thanks!

You're mixing Magnesium (Mg), and Manganese (Mn), up. Stang was talking about Mn levels, not Mag.

Wet