Ethos Banana Hammock comparative(exodus thread)

3rd Monkey said:
Micro-nutrient trivia of the day.

Ca- Calcium is directly responsible for proper growth of roots and cellular walls of stems and foliage. A lack of calcium can slow root development and distort newer growth (twisting, deformed, holes, etc.).

Calcium is immobile and relies strictly on transpiration (moving water from the roots to the top of the plant) to move through the plant. That's why newer growth and growth directly in the light are usually the first to be effected.

Too much calcium can compete with iron, magnesium, and potassium and lock them out, and too much of the others can lock out calcium, especially potassium.

It's best if calcium is kept under 200ppm of total nutrient solution.

Sources of calcium: Gypsum, dolomite, eggshells, bone meal, coffee grounds.
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Excellent info dude! Thanks for posting it.

To add to it, calcium can lock out phosphorus when fed together with a resulting pH being above 6.5.
 
Moabfighter said:
View attachment 4334418

How close do I hold this. Few inches changes the values a lot. There’s also not a single manufacturer instructions to be found. Not sure what they were thinking here......

Thanks for the help. Plant still looks like shit.
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You hold the sensor even or just above canopy, and take the reading; take readings at several diff distances from area directly under the light, to get a feel for the spread. Your goal is to get an even spread across your canopy, at the target intensity (ppfd).

Here is link to lux->ppfd conversion:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/blogs/calculators/converting-lux-to-ppfd

For a seedling, you don’t want more than 100-150ppfd; after 3-4 nodes, start working it up to 300 by 6th nodes; then work to 600 by 12:12; then up to 800-1000+ til harvest.

Can’t remember if i posted this before, page 16 is the must read.

http://fluence.science/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/High-PPFD-Cultivation-Guide-9.27.16.pdf
 
3rd Monkey said:
I've never measured. I always just ran them close as I could without stress. That was with HPS. I've never bleached one with the HPS, it was always heat first. Grew hard buds... About the same as outdoors for me.

These QBs... I had them at 15", looked fine for a few days, they were perky and happy. Then they started lightening up and I figured it was probably too close. Raised it to 24", the dark green is coming back.

Lux meter should be here tomorrow. See if I can get them harder under these QBs. I like them, just have to sort them out.

Appreciate the lighting info. Definitely not my forte.
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You’ll find the meter helpful. For qbs, it’s near impossible to accurately estimate how much ppfd and whether it’s even, by eye.
 
3rd Monkey said:
Micro-nutrient trivia of the day.

Ca- Calcium is directly responsible for proper growth of roots and cellular walls of stems and foliage. A lack of calcium can slow root development and distort newer growth (twisting, deformed, holes, etc.).

Calcium is immobile and relies strictly on transpiration (moving water from the roots to the top of the plant) to move through the plant. That's why newer growth and growth directly in the light are usually the first to be effected.

Too much calcium can compete with iron, magnesium, and potassium and lock them out, and too much of the others can lock out calcium, especially potassium.

It's best if calcium is kept under 200ppm of total nutrient solution.

Sources of calcium: Gypsum, dolomite, eggshells, bone meal, coffee grounds.
Click to expand...

Hey man, take us thru em all....
 
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