As long as its in the voltage range with all the boards connected in series, just means it'll be even more current and more light coming from them.I ordered a led from a company that builds HLG-550 V2 clones and it came with a Mean Well HLG-480h-c2800AB driver instead of the HLG-480h-c2100b that I expected. Does anyone know how this will effect the light.
You saying qbs can't run 2800ma?
Genuine boards can do 3 amp but only on slate single heatsinks. You shouldnt do 2800ma with 2 boards on a twin heatsink without active cooling, it would need the XL.You saying qbs can't run 2800ma?
It is driving 4 boards all mounted on the same heat sink no fins just like the HGL-550 V2 Meijiu was the company I got it from. Read on several forums that they used top bin Samsung lm301b diodesGenuine boards can do 3 amp but only on slate single heatsinks. You shouldnt do 2800ma with 2 boards on a twin heatsink without active cooling, it would need the XL.
Also that drivers 3amp DC output.
Im guessing the fakes hes bought are 36v
If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.It is driving 4 boards all mounted on the same heat sink no fins just like the HGL-550 V2 Meijiu was the company I got it from. Read on several forums that they used top bin Samsung lm301b diodes
Yes it can with a dimmer and it does have the potentiometer behind the rubber stopper. How would someone know the right amount to dim it?If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.
There are some people in here with a very good eye and some very interesting information that can help you determine of they're legitimate LM301b diodes even. Let alone a highish bin.
But aaaaaaanyways, besides that. Those boards are 48v right??... So it wont fit on the 480-2800's 85-171 voltage range being 192+/-. But I assume that's why they sent you the AB version? It has a dimming lead with white and blue or whatever and also a potentiometer recessed in the front behind a rubber stopper, right?
If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.
There are some people in here with a very good eye and some very interesting information that can help you determine of they're legitimate LM301b diodes even. Let alone a highish bin.
But aaaaaaanyways, besides that. Those boards are 48v right??... So it wont fit on the 480-2800's 85-171 voltage range being 192+/-. But I assume that's why they sent you the AB version? It has a dimming lead with white and blue or whatever and also a potentiometer rec
So am I understanding this correct that with the 480h 2800 the light will be running under powered not over.The boards are 288 knock offs, they are running at 48v.
The 288s are designed 18x 16 for 288 total chips. So if 48v is your forward voltage then that means that your current is split between 18 parallel strings of 16. 16 ×3v = 48v.
If you want all boards to have access to that max driver current while wired in series you'll need 48V× 4. Or 192V.
The BABA people like to send undersized driver solutions.
A 480h 2100 will work but you'll only be able to run each board @ 100w max. So your 480w driver is useless over 400w. I'd recommend a 600h 48 and wiring all in parallel. I'd ask for a 600h 48, and tell them a 480 2100 or 480 2800 is not properly sized for the electrical requirements of the boards.
A 480 2800 is useless over 268w (boards can only get 268w) and a 480 2100 is useless over 400w (boards can only get 400w).. A 600h-48 you'll have to turn down but much better tool for your application.
I dunno man, Io stands for current so maybe try to use a multimeter to measure on the driver leads and turn it down to 2100ma and see if it lights up.Here are some photos of the unit.
Correct. The four 48v boards in series is 192 volts, but the driver is only rated to output 171v max., so the boards will run at less than full powerSo am I understanding this correct that with the 480h 2800 the light will be running under powered not over.
Your logic is correct but not sure if the driver can only put out .72A or 720mA.Couldn't he turn down the voltage pot and get them to work?
Yes under powered, even with a 2100, your lights will only be able to draw 375w from that 480w rated driver. The max current a 2100b puts out is 2.1A. 2.1A ÷ 18 parallel strings is only 116mA per string, or 116mA per chip which is rated to go as high as 200mA. Most don't run their QBs that high but just understand that you're paying for a tool that doesn't fit correctly. Switching topics back to your 480h 2800, your paying full price for a tool you'll only be able to use half of. Itd be cheaper to buy a 240h 2800 to push 246w compared to buying a 480h 2800 to push 246w. Its not sized correctly.So am I understanding this correct that with the 480h 2800 the light will be running under powered not over.