HLG-550 V2 clone with Mean Well HLG-480h-c2800AB driver

spirtwolf

Member
I ordered a led from a company that builds HLG-550 V2 clones and it came with a Mean Well HLG-480h-c2800AB driver instead of the HLG-480h-c2100b that I expected. Does anyone know how this will effect the light.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I ordered a led from a company that builds HLG-550 V2 clones and it came with a Mean Well HLG-480h-c2800AB driver instead of the HLG-480h-c2100b that I expected. Does anyone know how this will effect the light.
As long as its in the voltage range with all the boards connected in series, just means it'll be even more current and more light coming from them.
 

diyled

Well-Known Member
You saying qbs can't run 2800ma?
Genuine boards can do 3 amp but only on slate single heatsinks. You shouldnt do 2800ma with 2 boards on a twin heatsink without active cooling, it would need the XL.

Also that drivers 3amp DC output.

Im guessing the fakes hes bought are 36v
 

spirtwolf

Member
Genuine boards can do 3 amp but only on slate single heatsinks. You shouldnt do 2800ma with 2 boards on a twin heatsink without active cooling, it would need the XL.

Also that drivers 3amp DC output.

Im guessing the fakes hes bought are 36v
It is driving 4 boards all mounted on the same heat sink no fins just like the HGL-550 V2 Meijiu was the company I got it from. Read on several forums that they used top bin Samsung lm301b diodes
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
It is driving 4 boards all mounted on the same heat sink no fins just like the HGL-550 V2 Meijiu was the company I got it from. Read on several forums that they used top bin Samsung lm301b diodes
If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.
There are some people in here with a very good eye and some very interesting information that can help you determine of they're legitimate LM301b diodes even. Let alone a highish bin.

But aaaaaaanyways, besides that. Those boards are 48v right??... So it wont fit on the 480-2800's 85-171 voltage range being 192+/-. But I assume that's why they sent you the AB version? It has a dimming lead with white and blue or whatever and also a potentiometer recessed in the front behind a rubber stopper, right?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
If there is a current or voltage io potentiometer on it, you'll be able to turn it counter clockwise a bit and it should work I think. I'm really not to familiar with these "AB" models. I didn't even know about them until a few months ago.
Hopefully someone else can chime in who sees I don't have all the answers and can help you out for sure.
 

spirtwolf

Member
If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.
There are some people in here with a very good eye and some very interesting information that can help you determine of they're legitimate LM301b diodes even. Let alone a highish bin.

But aaaaaaanyways, besides that. Those boards are 48v right??... So it wont fit on the 480-2800's 85-171 voltage range being 192+/-. But I assume that's why they sent you the AB version? It has a dimming lead with white and blue or whatever and also a potentiometer recessed in the front behind a rubber stopper, right?
Yes it can with a dimmer and it does have the potentiometer behind the rubber stopper. How would someone know the right amount to dim it?
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
The boards are 288 knock offs, they are running at 48v.

The 288s are designed 18x 16 for 288 total chips. So if 48v is your forward voltage then that means that your current is split between 18 parallel strings of 16. 16 ×3v = 48v.

If you want all boards to have access to that max driver current while wired in series you'll need 48V× 4. Or 192V.

The BABA people like to send undersized driver solutions.

A 480h 2100 will work but you'll only be able to run each board @ ~94w max. So your 480w driver is useless over 375w. I'd recommend a 600h 48 and wiring all in parallel. I'd ask for a 600h 48, and tell them a 480 2100 or 480 2800 is not properly sized for the electrical requirements of the boards.

A 480 2800 is useless over 246w (boards can only get 246w) and a 480 2100 is useless over 375w (boards can only get 375w).. A 600h-48 you'll have to turn down but much better tool for your application.
 
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spirtwolf

Member
If you can get an in focus, crisp picture of an LED diode up VERY CLOSE so the entire thing or close to it, takes up the whole frame.
There are some people in here with a very good eye and some very interesting information that can help you determine of they're legitimate LM301b diodes even. Let alone a highish bin.

But aaaaaaanyways, besides that. Those boards are 48v right??... So it wont fit on the 480-2800's 85-171 voltage range being 192+/-. But I assume that's why they sent you the AB version? It has a dimming lead with white and blue or whatever and also a potentiometer rec
 

spirtwolf

Member
The boards are 288 knock offs, they are running at 48v.

The 288s are designed 18x 16 for 288 total chips. So if 48v is your forward voltage then that means that your current is split between 18 parallel strings of 16. 16 ×3v = 48v.

If you want all boards to have access to that max driver current while wired in series you'll need 48V× 4. Or 192V.

The BABA people like to send undersized driver solutions.

A 480h 2100 will work but you'll only be able to run each board @ 100w max. So your 480w driver is useless over 400w. I'd recommend a 600h 48 and wiring all in parallel. I'd ask for a 600h 48, and tell them a 480 2100 or 480 2800 is not properly sized for the electrical requirements of the boards.

A 480 2800 is useless over 268w (boards can only get 268w) and a 480 2100 is useless over 400w (boards can only get 400w).. A 600h-48 you'll have to turn down but much better tool for your application.
So am I understanding this correct that with the 480h 2800 the light will be running under powered not over.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Here are some photos of the unit.
I dunno man, Io stands for current so maybe try to use a multimeter to measure on the driver leads and turn it down to 2100ma and see if it lights up.

Or just fuckin pull the stopper, stick a Philips head screwdriver down there, turn it a 1/4 turn or so, and plug it in to see if she works.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Couldn't he turn down the voltage pot and get them to work?
Your logic is correct but not sure if the driver can only put out .72A or 720mA.

171v ÷ 4 = 42.75v drop per board.

42.75v ÷ 16 = 2.67v per chip.

At 2.67v per chip you'd be drawing ~40mA or .72A for all 4 boards.
Screenshot_2019-03-05-10-24-14~2.png

So that would make the driver useless over 123w. (.72A × 171v = 123w). Can the driver supply only 720mA? Idk..

So the best way to run the 480 2800 is go 2S2P. Each board gets 1400mA, but at only 77mA per chip the board would only require about 2.75v per chip, or 2.75×16 = 44v to push 1.4A, this leaves a power calculation of 61.6w per board or ~246w total.

So am I understanding this correct that with the 480h 2800 the light will be running under powered not over.
Yes under powered, even with a 2100, your lights will only be able to draw 375w from that 480w rated driver. The max current a 2100b puts out is 2.1A. 2.1A ÷ 18 parallel strings is only 116mA per string, or 116mA per chip which is rated to go as high as 200mA. Most don't run their QBs that high but just understand that you're paying for a tool that doesn't fit correctly. Switching topics back to your 480h 2800, your paying full price for a tool you'll only be able to use half of. Itd be cheaper to buy a 240h 2800 to push 246w compared to buying a 480h 2800 to push 246w. Its not sized correctly.

If you only want 400w in your 550V2 then the 480h-2100 will do that for you. Your boards can handle more, and your driver can put out more, but with that specific current to voltage matching on the driver, you'll be limited.

A 480 2100 will max out your boards at 375w.

A 480 2800 might max out your boards at 123w in series, but in 2S2P it will still be maxed out at 246w.

A 600h 48a will not limit your boards in any way, in fact it would allow you to add additional boards in parallel fairly easily without buying another driver, if you wished, you'd probably have to turn down the Vo to ~45v or adjust the Io to match your desired current flow.
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@spirtwolf
Check out this post for a quick refresher on series and parallel wiring..
https://www.rollitup.org/p/14628809/








Current is when electricity actually flows. How much current is allowed to flow depends on the voltage. Voltage is only describing how bad the current wants to flow.

You can have voltage without current flowing, but you can't have current flowing without voltage.

"Voltage is what pushes Current through Ohms."

Current is what we care about, with LEDs. We need a certain voltage though to push the required current through the LED.
 
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