Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Press fresh, dry, or cured; bud, drysift, or bubble...all make beautiful and extremely tasty & potent solventless rosin.... mmm, mmm good!
Epic 4x4 Flowering Smackdown : 96 Elites vs 288s
- Thread starter Or_Gro
- Start date
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nice press, buddy! I'm still doing it with my old curler and a vise, lol!
Would have liked something better but something like this does not exist here yet! Sometimes it feels like it's still stone age here! Everything you have to build yourself ..
Nice thread, btw.! Expect a head-to-head race. Hard to say which side wins! Slight efficiency benefit on the QB288 side but we'll see what's in under real-world conditions. Good luck!
ANC
Well-Known Member
If those are airpumps on the ground..... the quickest way to kill those is to run them on the floor... water backs up and rusts the mechanical bits shut.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Day 1: ~50 ppfd
Today Day 8: ~350 ppfd
Switched out 2’ arcadia reptile lights for 4’ t-5 agromax pure uv (75% uvb, 25% uva), 43” above tops, laying down ~100uW/cm sq for total 15 min/day (7.5 min at begin:7.5 min end of day), will ramp w additional 2 min every other day until damage becomes apparent...then may switch over to a DLI approach, running uvb for full lights on, but at a reduced intensity...depends on whether i can adj intensity w ht and type of uvb t-5s i have available, no dimming capability at this point....
Probably be culling and topping next week.
Today Day 8: ~350 ppfd
Switched out 2’ arcadia reptile lights for 4’ t-5 agromax pure uv (75% uvb, 25% uva), 43” above tops, laying down ~100uW/cm sq for total 15 min/day (7.5 min at begin:7.5 min end of day), will ramp w additional 2 min every other day until damage becomes apparent...then may switch over to a DLI approach, running uvb for full lights on, but at a reduced intensity...depends on whether i can adj intensity w ht and type of uvb t-5s i have available, no dimming capability at this point....
Probably be culling and topping next week.
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
A bud passed this on to me, just putting it out there for those intrested in less costly par and spectrum meter.
Not associated with company, and have no experience adapting this for growing. But $200 bucks looks like a steal, if it works for plants....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=6hUkufXBb3I
Not associated with company, and have no experience adapting this for growing. But $200 bucks looks like a steal, if it works for plants....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=6hUkufXBb3I
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Day 9; workin on 5th and 6th nodes, should be topping & culling in 2-3 days, girls are shifting into bigveg mode, loving the 96 spectrum & intensity, holdin up well against the big uvb tube.
Looks like one of the trainwreck clones mutated, putting out 3 rather than 2 leaves per node:
Looks like one of the trainwreck clones mutated, putting out 3 rather than 2 leaves per node:
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Cheapest accurate PAR meter can be build from a wired Apogee SQ-120 sensor(only sensor 153$) and a cheap multimeter to read out the sensor. The sensor works with millivolts so you need to set the multimeter to 200mV. The readings must be multiplied by 5 and for LED's you need to apply also a correction factor of 1,08.
So if you see 50mv on the meter it means 250μMol/s/m² and when using LED it would be 270μMol/s/m²{250 x 1,08=270).
Compared to the new SQ-500 the measuring are within 2-3%. Costs ~165$!
Its actually pretty easy to built cuz you need only to connect the black and red sensor wires to the according inputs on your multimeter.(the white sensor wire should be insulated because the multimeter is not able th read the additional signals of this wire. But it works without.)
There are a few videos on youtube and it seems to work very well. But I will stay with my good old lux meter because it does the same and with the correct conversion factor I can get pretty accurate numbers.
Cheapest PAR meters use the same type of lux sensor and calculate PAR from lux so whats good enough for them is just good enough for me.
I'm waiting for a cheap spectrometer handheld for around 200 bucks.
It can also be used to calculate PAR but it can show you so much more. Or something like this but this little thingy needs a smartphone with a single optic cam and the corresponding app to work. No fancy dual or quad sensor cam...
https://www.findlight.net/light-detection-and-measurement/spectrometers-spectrographs/spectrographs-and-monochromators/gospectro-alphanov-smartphone-based-light-spectrometer
So if you see 50mv on the meter it means 250μMol/s/m² and when using LED it would be 270μMol/s/m²{250 x 1,08=270).
Compared to the new SQ-500 the measuring are within 2-3%. Costs ~165$!
Its actually pretty easy to built cuz you need only to connect the black and red sensor wires to the according inputs on your multimeter.(the white sensor wire should be insulated because the multimeter is not able th read the additional signals of this wire. But it works without.)
There are a few videos on youtube and it seems to work very well. But I will stay with my good old lux meter because it does the same and with the correct conversion factor I can get pretty accurate numbers.
Cheapest PAR meters use the same type of lux sensor and calculate PAR from lux so whats good enough for them is just good enough for me.
I'm waiting for a cheap spectrometer handheld for around 200 bucks.
It can also be used to calculate PAR but it can show you so much more. Or something like this but this little thingy needs a smartphone with a single optic cam and the corresponding app to work. No fancy dual or quad sensor cam...
https://www.findlight.net/light-detection-and-measurement/spectrometers-spectrographs/spectrographs-and-monochromators/gospectro-alphanov-smartphone-based-light-spectrometer
ApfelStrudel
Well-Known Member
Since we're on the subject here, I'm trying to figure out rough numbers in my grow measuring lux. I'm reading 60-90 klux in my flower. How does that translate to PAR? Of course I'm usin white leds, a mix of 3500K Cree CXB3070 and 2700K Samsung lm561.
SMT69
Well-Known Member
Im running lm561c also, was told to divide flux by 68 for ppfd (or 69 with the new v2 diodes)... i could be wrong but its close, ive been using 68 anyways.....RB and OG will know
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Maybe @Randomblame can tell you the specific conversion factor for the cree.
For lm561c, divide lux by 67.25, per below.
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/blogs/news/converting-lux-to-ppfd
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ApfelStrudel
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
For LM561c 3000°k the multiplier is 0,01511(based on HLG's LER/QER numbers)and for 3500°k Cree COB's its 0,1415.
So if you have each type of LED's on its own driver its pretty simple. If you have them on the same driver you have to figure out how much percent light you get from strips and how much from the COB's and calculate a factor for the mixed spectrum. But because lux meters are not all the same you have to calculate with ±10% deviation.
Luxmeter apps are BTW useless without calibration..
Edit!
Here are the calculated efficiency numbers and conversion factors for all available F-strips. Brother @wietefras posted the chart last year and I have stored it for personal use. So credits to him..
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Day 11: lookin healthy under these two 96s. 1st topping for mainlines tomorrow, transplant later this week.
Receiving ~400ppfd, 18:6; plus 16 mins/day of ~ 100uw/sq cm uvb, increasing 2 mins every other day, from 4’ t-5 agromax 25% uva 75% uvb.
This mutant trainwreck clone is still doing the trifoliate thing, earned itself a single plant grow:
Receiving ~400ppfd, 18:6; plus 16 mins/day of ~ 100uw/sq cm uvb, increasing 2 mins every other day, from 4’ t-5 agromax 25% uva 75% uvb.
This mutant trainwreck clone is still doing the trifoliate thing, earned itself a single plant grow: