260 Watt Quantum Board LED Kit V2 Thoughts?

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
Have you thought about a FOTOP 800 led board for that space.....?
@Randomblame will give you the correct answer though :lol:
Thank you, I will have a look at the boards.

Hmm! Thats ~5ft²! 175w would be already enough.
I'm a strip nerd and would recommend to use 3000°k Samsung H-inFlux Series, modell S03(44 diodes, 1ft. single row, 11,2v) or S04(64 diodes, 1ft. double row, 22,3v). 18pcs S03 strips(6 rows of 3) or 9pcs S04(3 rows á 3 strips), all connected in parallel + an HLG-185H-12A or H-24A would be 200-220w. S03 would be slightly more efficient like S04 because of more diodes(792 vs. 576). Its also easier to implement a 3ft. UVB bulb between 6 rows S03 strips if you plan to use one. With 3 rows its impossible to mount the bulb in the center.

You could also use a QBv2 260w-kit but I would order the kit with two separate slate heatsinks to allow each board to cover one half of the area.
Much easier, less wiring effort, no frame needed and you could adjust the height separately which is useful with different strains or when you use a perpetual setup and plan to harvest one half of the tent every 4 weeks.
Strips on the other hand allow a lower distance to the canopy which is more efficient(less watt, less wall loss, better coverage, better penetration).
Both setups have their own benefits and would probably yield the same.
Thank you for the response. I have recently done a QB build and wanted to do a strip
build for my next build. Cobs were my first builds.
I am going to give the Fotop op boards both of you suggested a look. Again,thank you.
I have a feeling I'm gonna run with the strip build, I get to tinker with uvb too?! Icing on the cake, kinda hard to resist. Also, the strips, being that they will aloow for lower canopy distance, it'll clear up some head room for a small 4" fan and filter combo.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
But he would get much less final yield, bro.
Better idea, add a 39w 3ft. reptile bulb to add the missing UVA "+" additional UVB. Power draw would be still below 315w CMH and he will thank ME probably hundred times when he smokes it, lol!
You will also need a far red supplement to match the 315, at that point you are going to be even on wattage or slightly above.

CMH can produce a pound+ per run per 315 light or top shelf buds. No additional supplementation needed.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Install a 120 to 240vac converter and run the drivers at 240v. Its 3% more efficient and inrush current would be much lower. Breaker issues adé!
Thanks bro. The Meanwell drivers can automatically switch between 120/240 vac like my HPS digital ballasts do? Thanks again.
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
You will also need a far red supplement to match the 315, at that point you are going to be even on wattage or slightly above.

CMH can produce a pound+ per run per 315 light or top shelf buds. No additional supplementation needed.
Again, the CMH is an outstanding light. But i don't think you'd need to add 40+ watts of far red to a 260 kit to get a similar spectrum to the 315. Plus, at 1.6 μmoles/joule the 315 CMH is much less efficient than a QB 288 v2 which hits 2.5 μmoles/joule even when being run hard.
Again, CMH are great lights, but in no way are they capable of anything that mordern LED tech isn't. And they certainly aren't so amazing that it justifies trying to talk people out of buying QBs. Especially from a company as cool as HLG.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Again, the CMH is an outstanding light. But i don't think you'd need to add 40+ watts of far red to a 260 kit to get a similar spectrum to the 315. Plus, at 1.6 μmoles/joule the 315 CMH is much less efficient than a QB 288 v2 which hits 2.5 μmoles/joule even when being run hard.
Again, CMH are great lights, but in no way are they capable of anything that mordern LED tech isn't. And they certainly aren't so amazing that it justifies trying to talk people out of buying QBs. Especially from a company as cool as HLG.
LEDs do not contain far red or IR, so you'd need to get a supplemental lighting for that if you want it to have a full spectrum like CMH does.

Not trying to beat down LEDs but it's the truth, LEDs do not contain UV or IR, if you want them to compare to the quality of a light that has that you will need to supplement.

I know because i have LEDs and CMH, i have done side by sides, how i run my LEDs now is supplemental lighting to my CMH/HPS. They work great for adding lots of light but if you want top shelf super frosty buds that taste great you will want UV and IR.

LEDs are not great standalone lights for two reasons

First reason is lack of coverage

Second reason is lack of spectrum
 

88g

Member
LEDs do not contain far red or IR, so you'd need to get a supplemental lighting for that if you want it to have a full spectrum like CMH does.

Not trying to beat down LEDs but it's the truth, LEDs do not contain UV or IR, if you want them to compare to the quality of a light that has that you will need to supplement.

I know because i have LEDs and CMH, i have done side by sides, how i run my LEDs now is supplemental lighting to my CMH/HPS. They work great for adding lots of light but if you want top shelf super frosty buds that taste great you will want UV and IR.

LEDs are not great standalone lights for two reasons

First reason is lack of coverage

Second reason is lack of spectrum
How do LED and CMH compare in heat output? CMH runs cooler than HPS right?
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
How do LED and CMH compare in heat output? CMH runs cooler than HPS right?
heat output is made by how many watts the light uses, so a 315w light produces 315w of heatload, each watt is about 3.41 btu / hour of heat so the heatload of a 315w cmh is about 1075 btu per hour.
 

pan2707

Well-Known Member
trouble is with these leds and i'm assuming here is you need temps well above 80 degrees or you can get deficiencies.
had to put 2 of mine back under a cmh as they turning light green. leaf temps around 75-80 impossible for me to get em higher and never experienced these problems we cmh or hps
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
As i said... far reds and deep reds are cheap and easy to suppliment, (HLG is actually including deep reds on the QB 96 Elite). UV is a bit more expensive to suppliment, but you don't need that until flowering anyway, and i prefer not getting blasted by a bunch of UV when I'm training/taking care of my plants during veg.
 

pan2707

Well-Known Member
my posts seem to erase themselfs sometimes im not sure what happened, you could supplement or heat your grow up more if possible
have to put heating on 24/7 or put a heater in which is defeating purpose to be honest.
got to say though these problems seem to occur more in veg
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
As i said... far reds and deep reds are cheap and easy to suppliment, (HLG is actually including deep reds on the QB 96 Elite). UV is a bit more expensive to suppliment, but you don't need that until flowering anyway, and i prefer not getting blasted by a bunch of UV when I'm training/taking care of my plants during veg.
IR is for veg and general plant health, keeps the plant warm

its the plants lil heater during daytime
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
You going to supplement that too?
Don't need to. I figured out very quickly that if i keep my ambient room temp higher the plants are happy as fuck. The lack of IR in led just means that there is less of a gradient between leaf temp and ambient temp and i have to worry less about keeping my space cool. I just mount my drivers to the heat sinks and my room sits happily at about 83 to 85 f. No IR required.
 

pan2707

Well-Known Member
Don't need to. I figured out very quickly that if i keep my ambient room temp higher the plants are happy as fuck. The lack of IR in led just means that there is less of a gradient between leaf temp and ambient temp and i have to worry less about keeping my space cool. I just mount my drivers to the heat sinks and my room sits happily at about 83 to 85 f. No IR required.
what are your leaf temps please
 
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