The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

trojanvirus

trojanvirus

Well-Known Member
-The Bava boards have enhanced red 660nm and were on sale last time I looked last night.
-Brite seemed the lowest priced in the bunch offering equivalents of each kit but only LM561C (really?).
-Have dealt with Meiju, they are nice, good review from me, but dammit if they didn't sell me the V1 just before the V2s came out. The V1 800 board is too big for the heatsink. This is a pro/con thing, since the V1 spreads more light but is made from LM561C, and heatsink space. Whereas the V2 is (supposedly) made up of LM301B (modern/efficient/you know), and has a proper heatsink, but is more condensed (hot spots baby). I actually thought to run 2x 2x4 much lower to get rid of hotspots.

Hmmm.. did I miss anything,
-how about Hansion, uses aggressive sales tactics and try to rush sales. Other vendors not so bad.

-oh, and drivers, you know, looking at the legit V2 96 boards + some round HBG 54V 180+ drivers (for like $30 on AB) brings it back to the realistic mode (although I been warned to check efficiency on the drivers; not tested).

Beyond that, I also like to build my own light shows, so ... really, if you want and are patient you can build any board, just order the pcb (for like $4) and the original diodes and have at her.
 
platrypus

platrypus

Member
Rocket Soul said:
To me te whole selection process seems to get much easier if you try to:
- Calculate the watts you want, about 35 per square foot.
- you'll need about 1 square foot of board per 50 w in order to run them with no heatsink which to me is very desirable. Less weight, less shipping, and the added value of this approach is that youll end up running your boards super soft.
- with these numbers in mind try to get as many diodes per dollar. Samsung Lm-whatever as the difference isnt that big. You gain more efficiency per $ by using more diodes rather than using top diodes. As long as the diodes are half decent to start with. Calculate how many boards you need to avoid heatsinks and make sure they fit your space.
- get whatever matching drivers.
Your cannopy is likely to be completly covered by boards at much less cost than going qb/lm301b way.
Click to expand...
So, did my maths! :)

End up thinking to get 2*FOTOP 800 (@3000K) + 6-8*FOLED 312 (probably mixing 2700K, 3000K and 4000K) - should be plenty of light (3472 leds) and doable without heatsink (FOTOP@180W, FOLED@60W). Or 304s instead of 312...

Thinking 1xHLG-480H-48 for the FOTOP and 2xHLG-320-36 for the FOLED?
 
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hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Ok, got it. Thnx fir rhe replies growers!
This could be fun & for the price deff a healthy way to spend some doe on something to do that benefits the garden. Been dying to replicate a spectrum I saw from an Amare knock off comp. That has a spectrum very similar to what theyre using now as they're new Medical/Equetorial spectrum.
Did anyone find out what they're using for color? I don't want Sammy 301b's w/ Epi's ya know. And I believe I saw u get the 380-420nm range right @Moflow ? Cuz they're a must have for me. 660 bumb ain't cutting it for this cowboy. Lol!
Upon reviewing one of these links u guys posted, I noticed they offered different thicknesses PCP (is that what they're called?) boards they set the diodes on.
Now, it says they're copper. Cant you just get the thickest one to reduce the need for a bigger sink? Oh. And something that's been wicked bothering me about the QB design from day one. Why the Fxck not trowel on thermal paste before screwing these boards to a sink? Saying they dont need it is BS if ur trying to make something have the best possible thermal management which in turn increases efficiency & efficacy. :roll:
What is wrong with this picture? I mean does HLG glue theres down? Sure if u run them w/o a sink at a lower current I get it, I know u guys got that one figured out but fir thise who push em a lil harder why woukd u go through the trouble (not really trouble but u know what I mean) to build it & then cut a corner like that?
IDK, I'm on OCD builder & would lose sleep at night if I cut a corner like that on a customers job. That is unless I'm just tripping n dont know enough about the 8-)topic? But I have a 2.2-3 (i think) umol/j QB & That sucker gets hot & also has Pin-Fins ontop of the thick HeatSinks.
Everything should be glued n screwed together always no?
Was there 50% off Cree CXB 3590's Assemble urself Chinese knock off available from these folks too the po ast few yrs.? Did heads try them like these?
Ok, thnx guys. Nice plants there @Viceman666!
Yeah, thnx @Rocket Soul. I've never DIY a light so I will have some questions. Good looks!
@Moflow, u the man, you know this!
 
trojanvirus

trojanvirus

Well-Known Member
Don't forget a DigiReel contains 4000 LM301B diodes... and costs about $440USD (off Digikey). Thats the same as 5 x 800 boards and guaranteed Samsung diodes. This kind of build would be better for light spread and less hot spots (light hot spots). They don't need a heatsink, although you best to mount them on aluminum flatbar.

@Opie1971 I grow in 2x4s and I would recommend getting 6 x QB boards from Bright or fork over some more cash to get two V2 800 from Meijiu, but just run them low. I know that seems wasteful, but its what I found for light spread. The 800s get a bad hot spot in the center, and lighting PAR drops hard where there's no led above. Or just get a couple double board kits (for like $150 a kit) but ask for separate heat sinks so you can space them out proper. One 800 board will work though, and work pretty damn good, just not even lighting.
 
EmeraldØsiris

EmeraldØsiris

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
For the boards or for extraction? I doubt they have much power to press air thru ducts or filters. Although recently read that a under powered fan is good idea for cargon filters. The air having more time in contact with the filter supposedly makes it remove smell more effectively. But with so low cfm im not sure it would extract enough to keep anything but a small cab cool. What would be cool aswell isnif the thermal switch could be adapted to other temps. Only the lowest 84 setting seems usable for growing as i dont need a 92f setting, would be a fair bit to warm. Also seems to be stop and go, not lowering fan speed which means no airflow if under the temp setting.

Interesting if someone tried for a low tech temp control solution, but theres plenty of reason to believe its not going to work all that well. But who knows til trying
Click to expand...
Hahaha extraction. You funny :) although it would probably be fine for a motherplant or veg room. But nah... These can be placed on the heatsink for added cooling.
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
EmeraldØsiris said:
New board out:
https://m.alibaba.com/product/60847528837/For-Plant-Grow-Light-QB800-301B.html?spm=a2706.8301176.prew843968.13.b7294d25bQqBlFView attachment 4233967
Click to expand...
That's awesome. But why do these led makers keep making the same mistake adding 450nm? Use freaking 400-420 (way underrated) or 470. We get our 450 just fine from out k temps. And what with mixing 3k & 4k? Sales tactics? Use 35k then. 4k is the one all the k-temps are mixed together to avoid because it has the mostestestest green. Uggghhh! Does it cost more to get it customized or swap the 450 out?
Oh u guys. Making me wanna do this more everyday. Even know I got the newest in high tech, super efficient led grow lights coming in the mail as we speak from 2 different top Dawgs, I soooo still want to tinker with these. Lol. It's crazy.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
platrypus said:
So, did my maths! :)

End up thinking to get 2*FOTOP 800 (@3000K) + 6-8*FOLED 312 (probably mixing 2700K, 3000K and 4000K) - should be plenty's of light (3472 leds) and doable without heatsink (FOTOP@180W, FOLED@60W). Or 304s instead of 312...

Thinking 1xHLG-480H-48 for the FOTOP and 2xHLG-320-36 for the FOLED?
Click to expand...
Whats the space youre trying to cover? Open or tent? Remember my recommendations is based on lighting an open space, in a tent shouldnt be much difference but space may be limiting.
The examples you qoute would be pushing the limits would be pushing the limits of what i would use, especially on the 312 boards (they are about half a square foot or around 1/5th of a fotop, right?). 60 watts per FoLed would be like 300w on a Fotop and would be too much in my opinion. In fact too much period. Or maybe not? Buy them but be ready to turn them down to about 30 w each. Or figure out some sinking as you move along. The processs i went thru was; getting a few boards and testing. When i had actual real temp and light results we bought more.
Its a good idea not to marry yourself with any planned setup. I started with more of less powerfull drivers, makes sense if you wanna figure stuff out as you go along. Remember youre making parallel connections which mean if you have a grow accident, and one of your board gets diconnected youre feeding all the power to remaining board(s).
The setup we ended up with going with is 5 boards in parallel; one goes and there still 4 to take the power so only a 25% power increase.
The 312 boards: they are 36 watts right? Very nice voltage for driver matching. And good price if i remember right. I would look into to using the series connection, if im not wrong the Elg150h-cXXX have several options which would match up very nicely with 36 v. Ive been thinking of doing 4 to a driver and try to DIY them to a similar shape as a Fotop to control spread and be able to stick diodes in between. The fotops arent great if you wanna add your own diodes as it gets tricky to get the spread right.

Just make sure you have several ways you can go forward when you have the boards and you should be fine. The actual design we ended up going with was not the one i planned for. It was something we hit up on as we went along.

As for number of diodes: we used a similar number for around 4x7 using 750-800w total. And so happy im going ADHD on every thread now. If in doubt buy more boards and run them softer, as long as you can actually physicly fit fhem in your space of course
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
Ok, got it. Thnx fir rhe replies growers!
This could be fun & for the price deff a healthy way to spend some doe on something to do that benefits the garden. Been dying to replicate a spectrum I saw from an Amare knock off comp. That has a spectrum very similar to what theyre using now as they're new Medical/Equetorial spectrum.
Did anyone find out what they're using for color? I don't want Sammy 301b's w/ Epi's ya know. And I believe I saw u get the 380-420nm range right @Moflow ? Cuz they're a must have for me. 660 bumb ain't cutting it for this cowboy. Lol!
Upon reviewing one of these links u guys posted, I noticed they offered different thicknesses PCP (is that what they're called?) boards they set the diodes on.
Now, it says they're copper. Cant you just get the thickest one to reduce the need for a bigger sink? Oh. And something that's been wicked bothering me about the QB design from day one. Why the Fxck not trowel on thermal paste before screwing these boards to a sink? Saying they dont need it is BS if ur trying to make something have the best possible thermal management which in turn increases efficiency & efficacy. :roll:
What is wrong with this picture? I mean does HLG glue theres down? Sure if u run them w/o a sink at a lower current I get it, I know u guys got that one figured out but fir thise who push em a lil harder why woukd u go through the trouble (not really trouble but u know what I mean) to build it & then cut a corner like that?
IDK, I'm on OCD builder & would lose sleep at night if I cut a corner like that on a customers job. That is unless I'm just tripping n dont know enough about the 8-)topic? But I have a 2.2-3 (i think) umol/j QB & That sucker gets hot & also has Pin-Fins ontop of the thick HeatSinks.
Everything should be glued n screwed together always no?
Was there 50% off Cree CXB 3590's Assemble urself Chinese knock off available from these folks too the po ast few yrs.? Did heads try them like these?
Ok, thnx guys. Nice plants there @Viceman666!
Yeah, thnx @Rocket Soul. I've never DIY a light so I will have some questions. Good looks!
@Moflow, u the man, you know this!
Click to expand...
Maybe better to make a thread of your build? Many questions... And better getting things right. Ive really liked your grows and style. That vertical strip fixture, cant remember its name, really blew my mind when you got it.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
trojanvirus said:
Don't forget a DigiReel contains 4000 LM301B diodes... and costs about $440USD (off Digikey). Thats the same as 5 x 800 boards and guaranteed Samsung diodes. This kind of build would be better for light spread and less hot spots (light hot spots). They don't need a heatsink, although you best to mount them on aluminum flatbar.

@Opie1971 I grow in 2x4s and I would recommend getting 6 x QB boards from Bright or fork over some more cash to get two V2 800 from Meijiu, but just run them low. I know that seems wasteful, but its what I found for light spread. The 800s get a bad hot spot in the center, and lighting PAR drops hard where there's no led above. Or just get a couple double board kits (for like $150 a kit) but ask for separate heat sinks so you can space them out proper. One 800 board will work though, and work pretty damn good, just not even lighting.
Click to expand...
Trojan is right on the money about spread and that being a drawback with FOTOP. With several smaller boards you can control that. But Fotop is damn nice if youre doing a large area.
 
platrypus

platrypus

Member
Rocket Soul said:
Whats the space youre trying to cover? Open or tent? Remember my recommendations is based on lighting an open space, in a tent shouldnt be much difference but space may be limiting.
Click to expand...
4x4 tent. I made the calculations and everything normally fits. Trying to get as much coverage as possible and running the boards low.

The examples you qoute would be pushing the limits would be pushing the limits of what i would use, especially on the 312 boards (they are about half a square foot or around 1/5th of a fotop, right?). 60 watts per FoLed would be like 300w on a Fotop and would be too much in my opinion. In fact too much period. Or maybe not? Buy them but be ready to turn them down to about 30 w each. Or figure out some sinking as you move along. The processs i went thru was; getting a few boards and testing. When i had actual real temp and light results we bought more.
Its a good idea not to marry yourself with any planned setup. I started with more of less powerfull drivers, makes sense if you wanna figure stuff out as you go along. Remember youre making parallel connections which mean if you have a grow accident, and one of your board gets diconnected youre feeding all the power to remaining board(s).
The setup we ended up with going with is 5 boards in parallel; one goes and there still 4 to take the power so only a 25% power increase.
The 312 boards: they are 36 watts right? Very nice voltage for driver matching. And good price if i remember right. I would look into to using the series connection, if im not wrong the Elg150h-cXXX have several options which would match up very nicely with 36 v. Ive been thinking of doing 4 to a driver and try to DIY them to a similar shape as a Fotop to control spread and be able to stick diodes in between. The fotops arent great if you wanna add your own diodes as it gets tricky to get the spread right.
Click to expand...
Yes, 312 are the same size at 304, so 1/5 of Fotop. Still making the maths on the drivers, and looking at constant current/series wiring now. I chose the 312 because of the voltage of 304 (36V vs. 100V?)

Just make sure you have several ways you can go forward when you have the boards and you should be fine. The actual design we ended up going with was not the one i planned for. It was something we hit up on as we went along.

As for number of diodes: we used a similar number for around 4x7 using 750-800w total. And so happy im going ADHD on every thread now. If in doubt buy more boards and run them softer, as long as you can actually physicly fit fhem in your space of course
Click to expand...
Exactly my line of thought: several plans and adapt depending on what I get/measure during tests and setup!
Thanks for your detailed replies!
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
That's awesome. But why do these led makers keep making the same mistake adding 450nm? Use freaking 400-420 (way underrated) or 470. We get our 450 just fine from out k temps. And what with mixing 3k & 4k? Sales tactics? Use 35k then. 4k is the one all the k-temps are mixed together to avoid because it has the mostestestest green. Uggghhh! Does it cost more to get it customized or swap the 450 out?
Oh u guys. Making me wanna do this more everyday. Even know I got the newest in high tech, super efficient led grow lights coming in the mail as we speak from 2 different top Dawgs, I soooo still want to tinker with these. Lol. It's crazy.
Click to expand...
I get great results with 3000K / 5000K Growgreen boards, although they have a tight diode concentration.
Not too keen on extra 450nm either.

@Opie1971 2 X FOTOP 800s on a hlg 320h 48A in a 2ft x 4ft, no heatsinks.....
A perfect fit and a great spread of light.

@hybridway2 , keep me in mind if you're not using the suncloak and I'll test it out for you...
Lol
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Maybe better to make a thread of your build? Many questions... And better getting things right. Ive really liked your grows and style. That vertical strip fixture, cant remember its name, really blew my mind when you got it.
Click to expand...
The Suncloak.... we'll have to make a DIY copy although it's been done on RIU before.
 
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