Jack's 321 Questions

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
This is just me; I use the 3 2 1 formula throughout the plant's life, with nothing else added. Under my growing conditions, using my tap water and considering the strain I'm working with, literally 3g; 2g; 1g is what I consider my 100% mix or the maximum my plants can take without showing ill effects. With that being said, I simply adjust this formula according to where the plant is in its life, but the ratio always remains at 3 2 1. For example when I take clones, I use a 25% mix of the 100% formula above (.75g ; .5g; .25g per gallon), at the peak of their lives (last week or so in Veg and the first 2-3 weeks of flower) they'll get exactly 3g; 2g; 1g; I then slowly ramp them down from this to a 5% mix by the time they're ready for harvest. This has produced the heaviest, stickiest, smelliest, most beautiful flowers I've experienced, and while I won't post pics, they are in every way comparable to the best flowers out there. Once I compile enough data (ie. grow the same strain, under the same conditions, while keeping very good notes, at a minimum of 5 times) I will then experiment with those products that might give an individual an additional 5% gain. But until I can verify a baseline, adding all the 'beneficials and bloom boosters' won't tell me much. But again, this is just me.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
I used to use the 5-11-26 and needed Epsom with it. But there's enough Mg in the 5-12-26 where plans haven't missed it.

I've reduced the CaNO3 to 1.2 around week 5 and 0.8 at week 7. First time I'm doing it. Just experimental. I did run into some Ca deficiencies. I picked up some calcium sulfate (gypsum) to get a source of calcium in late flower when I'm trying to reduce nitrogen levels but the folks at JR Peter's tells me it's only partially soluable in hydro. So I'm back to the drawing board on how I can reduce N levels but still maintain proper Ca levels.

My plants are finally being cropped with light to mid green leaves instead of dark green. Just chopped a few days ago so I'll see in a week if it helps taste
Ca EDTA (9.5% Ca), 1.05g in 10L will give you 10ppm Ca.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
This is just me; I use the 3 2 1 formula throughout the plant's life, with nothing else added. Under my growing conditions, using my tap water and considering the strain I'm working with, literally 3g; 2g; 1g is what I consider my 100% mix or the maximum my plants can take without showing ill effects. With that being said, I simply adjust this formula according to where the plant is in its life, but the ratio always remains at 3 2 1. For example when I take clones, I use a 25% mix of the 100% formula above (.75g ; .5g; .25g per gallon), at the peak of their lives (last week or so in Veg and the first 2-3 weeks of flower) they'll get exactly 3g; 2g; 1g; I then slowly ramp them down from this to a 5% mix by the time they're ready for harvest. This has produced the heaviest, stickiest, smelliest, most beautiful flowers I've experienced, and while I won't post pics, they are in every way comparable to the best flowers out there. Once I compile enough data (ie. grow the same strain, under the same conditions, while keeping very good notes, at a minimum of 5 times) I will then experiment with those products that might give an individual an additional 5% gain. But until I can verify a baseline, adding all the 'beneficials and bloom boosters' won't tell me much. But again, this is just me.
It's beginning to appear that there's a fairly wide margin of flexibility based around Jack's 321. So far, and by mistake, my first res in week 2 is getting multiples of 321 and reduced by .7 to stay in my preferred ppm range, but I noticed an awful lot of growth on a Kush. So much so that I raised my light to the max and stripped about 40-50 large fan leaves off hoping to chill out the stretch and general growth. Well, the stretch stopped, but the inner canopy seemed to fill right back up with foliage inside of a day.

TBH though, I am a BIG fan of less is more. I think I'm going to try the (2.6/A, 1.4/B, 0/C) recipe, but not until I get some more materials and information. Till then I'll run 321.
 

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firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Would something like this straight calcium work? I looked up calcium sulfate and it said it can't be mixed in a storable solution and is only soluble to 2 grams per liter. I don't fully understand that yet, but it does give me a sense of concern because I'm using a recirculating system and will need something that can be available for about a week at least, but ideally (for me), I hope to settle on a recipe that allows me to liquefy everything into concentrates.
Well calcium and sulphur percipitate to form calcium sulphate. So they are saying anymore would be concentrated enough to cause that percipitate
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
It's beginning to appear that there's a fairly wide margin of flexibility based around Jack's 321. So far, and by mistake, my first res in week 2 is getting multiples of 321 and reduced by .7 to stay in my preferred ppm range, but I noticed an awful lot of growth on a Kush. So much so that I raised my light to the max and stripped about 40-50 large fan leaves off hoping to chill out the stretch and general growth. Well, the stretch stopped, but the inner canopy seemed to fill right back up with foliage inside of a day.

TBH though, I am a BIG fan of less is more. I think I'm going to try the (2.6/A, 1.4/B, 0/C) recipe, but not until I get some more materials and information. Till then I'll run 321.
321 is way too hot for me. It mixes at like 1.8EC.

I even add a little extra water to the 2.4-1.6
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Well calcium and sulphur percipitate to form calcium sulphate. So they are saying anymore would be concentrated enough to cause that percipitate
Even if kept separate until mixed with a lot of water and chelates?

321 is way too hot for me. It mixes at like 1.8EC.

I even add a little extra water to the 2.4-1.6
Irregardless of which recipe I settle into, I will always dilute till it's within safe ppm ranges. It's just a matter of identifying which ratios will jive best with my plants which will soon be predominantly Indica (Cheese x Blue Cheese).
 

Kami Samurai

Well-Known Member
Even if kept separate until mixed with a lot of water and chelates?


Irregardless of which recipe I settle into, I will always dilute till it's within safe ppm ranges. It's just a matter of identifying which ratios will jive best with my plants which will soon be predominantly Indica (Cheese x Blue Cheese).
I run 4 gallon in each dwc system so instead of dropping the ratio I plan to just add a 1 gallon measurement.
Cheese strains are some of my favorite I just threw up a thread in seed & strain review a couple days ago on the best cheese strain.
As well you can’t mix potassium sulfate and silica.
 
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Skybound420

Well-Known Member
If 1 US Gallon = 3785.412ml,
to make 1 gram become 10 ml, would the math be;
3785.41/10=378.54? Add 378.54 grams of a mix to a gallon,
so I could then attribute 1ml to 1/10 of a gram?
 

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
Skybound420...your math sounds about right, although I think you're going to play hell getting all that salt into solution, but that is not a road I've traversed, it's just my less than perfect logic working...haha...so please keep us updated. It will be interesting to see how this works out for you.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Skybound420...your math sounds about right, although I think you're going to play hell getting all that salt into solution, but that is not a road I've traversed, it's just my less than perfect logic working...haha...so please keep us updated. It will be interesting to see how this works out for you.
I now have 200 grams into a gallon, so this would just be almost twice that amount. I do remember that adding 200 grams to gallon made the water chemically heat up and it began softening the jug. Next time I'll do a gallon in a bucket and add it slower.
 

CannaCountry

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan. I had read earlier in your post about the solution heating up, and I wasn't quite sure if I was understanding you, but yeah, I guess I can see that happening. 178.5 grams to go. I do like where you're going with this so, yeah, let us know how it works out.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
After I added the 200, I took from it to build 3 reservoirs, so I'll need to use it all up first and then start a new batch.

edit - @200 g/Gal, 18.92ml = 1 gram, if my math is correct.
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of starting a new thread, but maybe I can get an answer here. Has anybody ever used HydroBuddy? If yes, is it possible for me to create profiles for products like Jack's Pro 5-12-26 or Jack's Cal-Nit 15-0-0? I want to save these products so I can recall them as needed in doses from each as needed. Also, I see people sharing their recipes and giving PPM data values and I was wondering how these values are learned since Jack's is listed as percentage of weight. It's as if I need to know the PPM of each element to input into HydroBuddy, but that is the kind of info I hope to get out of it.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
You would enter it into the substance database as a custom item. It can then be used as a selectable component/ingredient (along with others) to acheive a target nutrient formulation. It can also be used on its own via the concentration by weight function which gives the elemental ppm based on the weight you allocate to that item and the amount of water (eg, 1g of in 1L off water)
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
You would enter it into the substance database as a custom item. It can then be used as a selectable component/ingredient (along with others) to acheive a target nutrient formulation. It can also be used on its own via the concentration by weight function which gives the elemental ppm based on the weight you allocate to that item and the amount of water (eg, 1g of in 1L off water)
I've since figured out how to use the app, at least enough to create custom substances (eg Jack's A, Epsom etc), set the weight for each, and create a gallon of concentrate. I presume it's just a matter of understanding the math, which I am now starting to wrap my mind around.
 

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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
When dealing with concentrated stock solutions be mindful of compatability and solubility and dont use tapwater to make them ;) Make sure the calcium nitrate you have is Yara liva calcinit not tetrahydrate.
 

Billy Liar

Well-Known Member
I have read to reduce phosphates late flower and wanted to try it out.
I've done this with success.

I make my own copy of jacks (MgS, MKP, Potassium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate and a micronutrient blend) I find it's perfect for adding potassium sulphate in the final weeks, whilst reducing the MKP, to lower P and raise K with the benefits of additional S, I believe the results are increases in resins!

Peace
BL
 
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