Ph or deficiency

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4186641 View attachment 4186642 These are lower fan leaves from the plants with purplish tops. I’ll still get a ph test of soil to you here shortly.
No worries.

Tbh, something has been on the back of my mind...I didn't notice the NPK you provided on your bloom tea. Apologies, and thanks for the info.
9% phosphorus in the tea is pretty strong. I think a high amount of phosphorus could be antagonizing calcium, as well.

If i'm not mistaken its phosphoric acid that binds with calcium, to create calcium phosphate.
Phosphoric acid is the common hydroponic ph down. Calcium raises the ph.

This is why we need to know your ph.

Sweet. No worries.
It's getting towards bed time for me. But if i don't respond tonight, I will make sure I check in, in the morning.

Good luck.
 

Thegermling

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4186850 And here’s test number 2 the first test is off with the n and the p becuz I didn’t color match the caps with capsules. Color blindness sucks!
Damn If im reading that I get damn near deficiency in N,P, and K. Ive never used those tests as Im in coco and I know what elements are going in. I havent grown in soil since 2012!
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Morning dude,

I havn't personally used these specific methods for testing, so im not very familiar with them.
I've always done the liquid, then add the powder method.
But i think i can make sense of it.

It looks like N, and P are off the charts on the NPK test?
Potassium is in the deficiency range?
Potassium plays, a pretty important role too. Quite similar to calcium in a way.
Edit: yep looks low in K on both tests.
I personally don't believe the second test's read of being deficient in phosphorus. I think it is being locked up, so the test doesn't read it.
I reckon Gypsum should be ok.
The colour of the ph sample is hard for me to distinguish. But i'll take your word on 6.5 to 7.

My own personal way of moving forward, would be to top dress with gypsum. I would also add a little potash, to try and balance the NPK out a little. I've always used my wood ashings for potash. But you can buy the store bought stuff. It's strong though.
I'd give it a week or two, and see how they respond. Depending a week or two down the road, i might add a tiny amount of nitrogen. I would use blood and bone meal. I'd give it some mulch too.
A couple weeks further down the road, if the ph hasn't come down a tad, i'd give a light feeding of liquid sulphur.

I did some reading about blossom end rot as well. Apparently once the tops have started rotting its too late, and it's best to chop the affected areas off. So the plant can focus it's energy on recovery, instead of repair.
I would wait a week or two before making this decision though. You want to feel comfortable what you have done is helping the plant, and the problem isn't spreading, but staying fairly localized.

Best of luck. Hope it helps.
Anything else creeps up, make sure you update.

All the best.

:peace:
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
See nice and green. I dont know what to tell you man. I never used those tests so I dont know if theyre reliable. Tim looks like he knows alot about soil. Hes your guy.
Na no way bro, all of us contributed. You made a great point about phosphorus. It likely would have blown over my head.
 

Cbd1981

Well-Known Member
Also with these test you mix one cup of your soil from about a foot down and let it soak in 5 cups water after shaking it. When the soil settles you remove the water.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
So how much gypsum to a 100 gal smart pot? Thanks again guys!
Not sure of the surface area of your pot, though I think the standard is 0.5 to 1kg per m2.
Gypsum activates pretty damn fast, so i'd start lower, the go higher later if need be.
Maybe try about a pound first? A touch less perhaps.
Remember you mightn't need much calcium, because phosphorus is likely locking it out. Start low.
Same with the potash. Start off sparingly.

Also with these test you mix one cup of your soil from about a foot down and let it soak in 5 cups water after shaking it. When the soil settles you remove the water.
I see. Cheers, i might give them a go in the garden this year, and see what they say.
Thanks.

Peace be with you bro. Hope your plant recovers. It looks nice and green anyway.

Edit: i thought i'd add too, rough or scratch the surface of the soil right before applying the gypsum. Then cover it over with a few mm of soil, and water it in.
Next watering day is the ideal time.
 
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polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Tim1987, you are too much. How can you say it's blossom end rot when there isn't much blossoming going on? You're like other users of sites like this one, where there's someone who comes along with b.s. that sounds reasonable but because they can't diagnose the problem properly, what they say here is wrong. Not entirely wrong as it might be good to give some gypsum or what have you, but if you don't know exactly what the problem is (and clearly you don't), then you should stay off the board as you will just confuse people. I know you're having fun typing all that gibberish, but you really should stop until you better understand how to diagnose problems. If that's a disease like a fungus, it should be chopped yet some plants naturally change to a purple color as they flower. You really need to know what you're looking at before you say or do anything, and all of your nutrient suggestions are usually things that should be mixed in the soil. To top dress that stuff, it might just be too late anyway.
What growers need to do is get the soil mix right at the beginning of the grow. That way you don't have to worry about it and there will be no guessing, unlike what is so common in this forum.
BTW, blossom end rot is usually restricted to plants that make fruit.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Tim1987, you are too much. How can you say it's blossom end rot when there isn't much blossoming going on? You're like other users of sites like this one, where there's someone who comes along with b.s. that sounds reasonable but because they can't diagnose the problem properly, what they say here is wrong. Not entirely wrong as it might be good to give some gypsum or what have you, but if you don't know exactly what the problem is (and clearly you don't), then you should stay off the board as you will just confuse people. I know you're having fun typing all that gibberish, but you really should stop until you better understand how to diagnose problems. If that's a disease like a fungus, it should be chopped yet some plants naturally change to a purple color as they flower. You really need to know what you're looking at before you say or do anything, and all of your nutrient suggestions are usually things that should be mixed in the soil. To top dress that stuff, it might just be too late anyway.
What growers need to do is get the soil mix right at the beginning of the grow. That way you don't have to worry about it and there will be no guessing, unlike what is so common in this forum.
BTW, blossom end rot is usually restricted to plants that make fruit.
Out of respect for the OP im not even gonna say what i think about you. If you'd like to know pm me.

You are being ignorant or naive.
Read up on blossom end rot. Because most of the time it shows in early bloom.

I believe i have stated NOBODY can definitively say what it is, without sending it to a lab.

Contribute to the thread PP, and be helpful. Rather than hateful. Voice your own solution. Not doing so, implies you don't know what your talking about at all.
Do some reading too. Quit being a waterboy.
Leave me alone. Show some respect. I respect you. Even though i shouldn't.

You want to take this further instead of trolling me in someone elses thread, then PM me.
Quit being a bitch.
I will not respond to any more of your messages in this thead. Next you will be on ignore. Gladly as well.

Peace.

Edit: Some fun facts for you too. A plant needs to blossom before it fruits.
Blossom end rot, is caused by a lack of calcium in the soil.
Cold weather can cause it too.
Cold weather slows calcium down. But it is stated it hasn't been cold.
Guess what? Phosphorus is slowed down by cold too. Wonder why this might be?
Do your homework polishpollack.
 
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Vinny1989

Active Member
Does anyone know what this is?? First 2 serrated leaves started yellowing about a week ago..then started with nutes 2 day ago..biobizz actually told me to give full strength nutes from day 14..waited another 5 days an started with full nutes(biobizz said if I didn't it would lead to deficiencies) now there's brown/rusty patches appearing on new growth...an leaves on the new growth is starting to look a rusty colour?
 

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Cbd1981

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what this is?? First 2 serrated leaves started yellowing about a week ago..then started with nutes 2 day ago..biobizz actually told me to give full strength nutes from day 14..waited another 5 days an started with full nutes(biobizz said if I didn't it would lead to deficiencies) now there's brown/rusty patches appearing on new growth...an leaves on the new growth is starting to look a rusty colour?
Honestly I don’t give nutes till about 4 or 5 weeks. Started in promix or equivalent. After that they get put into my mix which is the same as when they are outdoors.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
cbd, that's very interesting. So you just use promix for 5 weeks with no fertilizer? If so, you might want to help others here when they say they've been adding ferts to promix from day one. I've tried to tell people there's nutrients in promix, but they don't want to listen.
If blossom end rot refers to damage of fruit (and it does), then blossom end rot doesn't apply to this plant or the OP's problem because this kind of plant doesn't make fruit. It's that simple. All Tim does is confuse people. If you don't know the problem, you don't know what the solution is either. And clearly, Tim doesn't know the problem. He's just guessing, but types words like he knows what he's talking about. There's nothing wrong with top dressing with gypsum or what have you; it's such a benign solution that at least it won't make the problem worse. So Tim gets away with giving advice that won't do much. Kudos Tim for safety.
 

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Then post that stuff in the beginning if it's so good. I'm not saying it is, but if you have a source people can use and it appears more accurate, then post it and don't give your calcium antagonism and phosphorus antagonism b.s. anymore. You keep qualifying what you write by saying "I think this or that." What you think is irrelevant. If no one can tell what it is without sending samples to the lab, then why do you write as much as you do? So boil it down for me then: what you do think the problem is, and how to fix it? For all of your typing you really haven't said much I can't voice my own opinion on what it is because I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT IS!. You don't know what it is either, but that doesn't stop you from spilling your garbage.
I've read back through this thread and nowhere do I see that you already wrote that a sample needs to be sent to a lab. You're going to have to show where you wrote that please cuz I have missed it or it doesn't exist.
"It's all a guessing game." - Tim1987.
 
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