Name that deficiency….cause I can NOT figure it out

They didn’t go in order….here’s more photos

Budzbuddha said:

Sometimes just a 2 or 3 part nute line is enough.
Too many supplements can and will cause antagonism among elements.

Click to expand...

Yea you are absolutely right, i obviously have a way of over complicating things

Budzbuddha said:

“ usually “ cal and mag are covered in your municipal water ( tap ) - and yes tap water will work unless its f’ up badly. Also most complete nute lines have calcium and mag . I run tap on all.

My calmag bottle collects dust on the shelf.
However it can be used as a foliar if needed.

Click to expand...

I am on a well and just discovered it’s only 21ppm after the filter - most city tap is closer to at least 100

I think the 1 cup of 2-6-3 is too much. It's similar in npk to the Gaia 284, which you only added 1.5 Tbs (<0.1 cup)...

weedstoner420 said:

I think the 1 cup of 2-6-3 is too much. It's similar in npk to the Gaia 284, which you only added 1.5 Tbs (<0.1 cup)...

Click to expand...

Absolutely not disagreeing. It’s also quite high in ca, so that and the AZOMITE I think bumped that too high , locking out other micros and less mobile nutrients, which is why I’m seeing mainly in the upper leaves

Actually that last batch of pics you posted look pretty good. If the leaves near the flowers were looking burnt I'd be much more concerned. Maybe just let it ride on tap water for a while, 25 ppm is about as good as tap water gets.

TimewasterOG said:

Samsung does make some good diodes!! The fact it’s mainly upper leaves showing symptoms makes this suggestion a possible contributor, but I’ve had a number of runs with both the spider farmer and the ecofarm and it hasn’t seemed like a problem before. At the moment the sf is a good 18-24” above canopy, and the ecofarm is close to that. All that said, I did recently bump the uv levels on that, so I might dial back down a bit.

Click to expand...

Ahhh nice, yeah maybe dial back and see how you get on. Never hurts to lessen the intensity while problems are happening.
Funnily enough I'm using the sf4000. Tend to keep it around 28 above the canopy. Still get this there too lol. Good luck!

Another update….and more photos of progression
So whatever is going on has not stopped, but I think possibly slowed a bit after the ewc tea on Friday. She seems to be showing 2 different issues - top fans start lifting serrated edges, then start canoeing as though it’s too hot, but it’s not. Temps are a maybe even a bit low with night : 16-18°/55-60%
day: 20-23°/45-55%
Then they start with the weird brown, scratchy veins that I’ve never seen before, which developed into the larger rust spot on that one fan leaf and yellowing moving through leaf.
The rust spots developing, the fact it’s upper leaves, and the weird temperature symptoms have me thinking it could be calcium related, but I’m really not sure.
the other issue is that how poor dead leaf went. Started with what looked like k issues as shown in earlier photo - yellowing becoming browning around edges, moving into leaf.
she’s now 6 weeks since flip and stacking on ok, so really hoping to get a handle on this so things don’t go sideways in the last few weeks.

TimewasterOG said:

Temps are a maybe even a bit low with night : 16-18°/55-60%

Click to expand...

Yep.

If your air temp's are that low overnight in a tent, chances are your soil temp's are as well.

Plants don't adsorb nutrients from the media effectively at that temperature. Soil microbes don't cycle nutrients effectively at those temperatures, either.

And it takes a long time for the air temp' in the tent to warm up the soil after the lights come back on.

So that's my guess. Soil temp's are too low for effective microbial cycling and plant root nutrient adsorption.

Gotta heat mat?

waktoo said:

Yep.

If your air temp's are that low overnight in a tent, chances are your soil temp's are as well.

Plants don't adsorb nutrients from the media effectively at that temperature. Soil microbes don't cycle nutrients effectively at those temperatures, either.

And it takes a long time for the air temp' in the tent to warm up the soil after the lights come back on.

So that's my guess. Soil temp's are too low for effective microbial cycling and plant root nutrient adsorption.

Gotta heat mat?

Click to expand...

I do have a small heat mat, but the Future #1 is sitting on a pot lifter in the tray….so I’m not sure that would actually raise the soil temp. Worth a try though! I’ll have to get my soil pen in there and see where the pots are sitting for temps. You’re probably right- I’m gonna guess the soil is down at like 15° or so even though I built stands to get the tent up off the floor. But it’s winter, and I have too much running as it is, no space for another heater.

And to clarify- I’ve read in numerous places that 15° is the danger zone, and 18° is pretty spot on for night temps (available o2 levels are highest @ 18° in a solution as well). What would you suggest as an ideal temp range?
Especially in flower, I want to keep it under 25° daytime to protect those delicate trichomes and a lot of the terpenes are quite volatile and will start breaking down as low as like 21° - is part of the reason you want dry temps down low to preserve flavours
6 weeks since flip and she’s stacking on good, I just really want to pin down this weird vein discolouration and the canoeing so she’s not stressed in the wrong ways over the last few weeks

You might just need to add lime, or oyster shell. Looks like the soil is your problem. Check out this thread, hope it helps.

waktoo said:

Yep.

If your air temp's are that low overnight in a tent, chances are your soil temp's are as well.

Plants don't adsorb nutrients from the media effectively at that temperature. Soil microbes don't cycle nutrients effectively at those temperatures, either.

And it takes a long time for the air temp' in the tent to warm up the soil after the lights come back on.

So that's my guess. Soil temp's are too low for effective microbial cycling and plant root nutrient adsorption.

Gotta heat mat?

Click to expand...

You were right to bring up soil temps…..stuck there probe in 2 nights ago and it was down at 13-14°. This means very little available o2 for the roots along with the issues you mentioned. Likely a good part of the issue.
I wrapped the heat mat around the pot so I wouldn’t have to take off the lifter so it only covers half the pot but brought temp up to 16-17° on that side of the pot.
I might just need to get a 2x4 mat and say fuck the lifters. Any clever solutions to warm multiple pots aside from spending on a (or several) big heat mat to put underneath? She’s still plugging along and stacking on good, it’s just very obvious she’s not 100% happy

TimewasterOG said:

You were right to bring up soil temps…..stuck there probe in 2 nights ago and it was down at 13-14°. This means very little available o2 for the roots along with the issues you mentioned. Likely a good part of the issue.
I wrapped the heat mat around the pot so I wouldn’t have to take off the lifter so it only covers half the pot but brought temp up to 16-17° on that side of the pot.
I might just need to get a 2x4 mat and say fuck the lifters. Any clever solutions to warm multiple pots aside from spending on a (or several) big heat mat to put underneath? She’s still plugging along and stacking on good, it’s just very obvious she’s not 100% happy

Click to expand...

Busy times for me right now. I'll send a PM in a few days.

Don't be overly concerned about DO. You need to get those soil temp's up. Even if it takes bringing up your air temp's during the day. I wouldn't worry one iota about soil temp's between 70-75f. And don't feed anything else to your plants. Fade is good at this stage of flowering. Water only from now to harvest. Flavor develops during the drying/curing stage. I'll explain more later....