I think so, but what i need to keep in mind to know if the driver is compatible with what im gonna use it for is if it runs on the right voltage and has a maximum current that is above the current of all the boards supposed to go in the setup combined? Im not sure if this is correct because the qb132 runs om 2000 mA but the 320h c1400a driver that is suggested on horticultures website as a driver sais it has a max current mA of 1400, so i must say im confused about how to tell if a driver is compatible or not.
dyi hlg 320 from a hlg 260
- Thread starter Gman94
- Start date
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
Someone come shine some knowledge in here
Actually I think you’d have to wiring it in parallel with the 36
Hlg 480h 2100 is for series I believe
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I have no idea lolSomeone come shine some knowledge in here
Actually I think you’d have to wiring it in parallel with the 36
Hlg 480h 2100 is for series I believe
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
The -C1400 is for series wiring and you need a certain number of boards to get out its full potential. VF adds up and you need to stay below the drivers maximum voltage.
The -36 driver is for parallel wiring. As long as the driver current is below the maximum of the boards it doesn't matters how much you add additionally.
If both driver and QB132 are 36v they match perfect. HLG-320H-36 has 8,9Amps, one QB132 is 2Amps max., means you need at least 5 boards but the more you add the better get their efficiency. For 1000w you need 3 drivers and 15-18 QB132, in a 4x4 or 5x 5' area and literally the whole ceiling would be covered with diodes. But leave a free 1x 1' spot in the center to remove the hotspot...
The -36 driver is for parallel wiring. As long as the driver current is below the maximum of the boards it doesn't matters how much you add additionally.
If both driver and QB132 are 36v they match perfect. HLG-320H-36 has 8,9Amps, one QB132 is 2Amps max., means you need at least 5 boards but the more you add the better get their efficiency. For 1000w you need 3 drivers and 15-18 QB132, in a 4x4 or 5x 5' area and literally the whole ceiling would be covered with diodes. But leave a free 1x 1' spot in the center to remove the hotspot...
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Okay okay, so the 320 mentioned has a maximum voltage of 431, wich divided by 6 boards is about 70 something so way over 36 pr board. But the 150 board mentioned is for paralell wiring ? Why haha? And is there a similar one meant for series ?
verticalgrow
Well-Known Member
Okay thanks, im starting to understand a bit more about these drivers now..
Still not quite sure wich driver to use for the two board setup though
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
HLG-150H-36
Or the elg 150 36
I think the only major difference is efficiency and money.
Elg is like 90% hlg is like 93%
Or the elg 150 36
I think the only major difference is efficiency and money.
Elg is like 90% hlg is like 93%
I was looking at it myself, i think the difference between the HLG and the ELG is also that the HLG has a built in potentiometer that lets you adjust the current, on this particular driver it lets you adjust it from 2.5a-4.2a. On a ELG driver i think you need a dimmer connected seperately.
So i have been so confused by all of this, because i was thinking the HLG-150H-36 would blow the qb132 lights because it maxes at 4200mA while the boards can only take 2000mA each. But according to the youtube video @verticalgrow linked thats not what happends with CV+CC drivers, What happends is the voltage stays constant, and when you wire the two qb132 boards in paralell what happends is the two boards pull 2000mA each and the driver then has 200mA to spare.
And what would happend if i put a 3rd board onto the same driver is the 3 boards would get 4200mA divided by 3, and then the driver would adjust the voltage to compensate.
I think thats correct. correct me if im wrong anyone.
So what i want to do is get a HLG-150-36H and wire the two boards in paralell, and then i can adjust the current with the built in potentiometer on the driver to dim the lights down, and i dont have to worry about dimming them too high and blowing the lights since the boards wont pull any more than
2000mA anyways.
This would be different if it was a constant current driver, if it was a constant current driver at 4200mA then i would have to wire a minimum of 3 boards on it so that it wouldnt blow the boards right?
i think i understand this correctly but i dont feel confident at all lol
Yeah what ill need to get the most out of the boards seems to be the hlg-150h-36a for the two boards. Because 4000mA x 36v = 144w wich is close to the 150 that would be the max for the boards.
Likewise im gonna need a hlg-480h-36a for the 6 boards, because that driver has a max mA of 13300, and the boards 2000mA x 6 boards is 12 000 mA wich in turn gives me 12 000mA x 36v wich is 432w wich is close to the 450w the boards would be able to take max.
Compared to the hlg-320h-c1400a that horticulture puts up as a driver option for wiring 6x boards in series, adding up to 36v x 6 boards = 216v x 1400mA = 302w.
The 480 driver is a bit pricyer but i think its worth it.
Likewise im gonna need a hlg-480h-36a for the 6 boards, because that driver has a max mA of 13300, and the boards 2000mA x 6 boards is 12 000 mA wich in turn gives me 12 000mA x 36v wich is 432w wich is close to the 450w the boards would be able to take max.
Compared to the hlg-320h-c1400a that horticulture puts up as a driver option for wiring 6x boards in series, adding up to 36v x 6 boards = 216v x 1400mA = 302w.
The 480 driver is a bit pricyer but i think its worth it.