DIY with Quantum Boards

[Blake_n_Concentrates]

@numberfour wow! super impressive plants. Hard to believe they were grown in just solo cups.

 

[pop22]

a multi-meter to confirm but the inner wire should be positive and the wire surrounding the white insulation should be negative. Use a wago or other connector and attach a solid core jumper wire to each, insulate the connections at the power supply cable with shrink tubing or electrical tape. color code your wires, black for negative, red or white for positive. Solid core wire will attach to the board connector easily.

I have the right drivers (in the picture), but how can I connect them to the boards? I'm intending to run single boards.

 

[Aolelon]

I have the right drivers (in the picture), but how can I connect them to the boards? I'm intending to run single boards.

You have to cut the end off that adapter and wire them straight, Find out which is the positive and which is negative, then wire them like that.

 

[Sleezygeezy]

Hello to all the QB "enthusiasts. I have come here before for some help w/ a qb120 veg build. Much help and appreciation w/ that. Now I'm building an air-cooled flowering light and need a little help again with an inline Voltage/Current display meter. I want to be able to monitor the output. Each light/hood is as follows: 2-QB304's on Slate 2 singles powered by an HLG-320H-C2800(max.118v). Most DC display meters max at 100v. With the AC being available in higher Voltages. Is there an inline Voltage/current/wattage meter that I could use on this build? Will I have to use an AC meter and wire it between the driver and the wall instead, which would at least give me the wattage. I assume. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[619kt619]

Hello to all the QB "enthusiasts. I have come here before for some help w/ a qb120 veg build. Much help and appreciation w/ that. Now I'm building an air-cooled flowering light and need a little help again with an inline Voltage/Current display meter. I want to be able to monitor the output. Each light/hood is as follows: 2-QB304's on Slate 2 singles powered by an HLG-320H-C2800(max.118v). Most DC display meters max at 100v. With the AC being available in higher Voltages. Is there an inline Voltage/current/wattage meter that I could use on this build? Will I have to use an AC meter and wire it between the driver and the wall instead,
which would at least give me the wattage. I assume. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Display-Capacity-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B06XFZ6PC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1528237755&sr=1-1&keywords=DROK+DC+0-120V+0-30A+LCD+Display+Digital+Current+Voltage+Watt+Capacity+Time+Meter,+Multimeter+Voltmeter+Ammeter+with+Relay

You are welcome. Took me forever to find a meter that went over 100v. The unit itself requires a 12 volt DC supply to turn the screen on and whatnot. check out the APV 12 12 from meanwell to power one up. I have three and power it off one driver not the 12 12 but in the same family.

 

[Sleezygeezy]

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Display-Capacity-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B06XFZ6PC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1528237755&sr=1-1&keywords=DROK+DC+0-120V+0-30A+LCD+Display+Digital+Current+Voltage+Watt+Capacity+Time+Meter,+Multimeter+Voltmeter+Ammeter+with+Relay

You are welcome. Took me forever to find a meter that went over 100v. The unit itself requires a 12 volt DC supply to turn the screen on and whatnot. check out the APV 12 12 from meanwell to power one up. I have three and power it off one driver not the 12 12 but in the same family.

Thanks alot. I had come across that one but was unsure because of the other features it had, like battery life. Which would just be redundant in my application. Good to know it will work. Thanks again.

 

[619kt619]

Thanks alot. I had come across that one but was unsure because of the other features it had, like battery life. Which would just be redundant in my application. Good to know it will work. Thanks again.

That feature is for battery applications. You won't use those features

 

[Aolelon]

Here it is lit up. 550w at the wall. Gonna be a beast of a light in this 4x2.5 tent I have, especially having it turned down, should be able to get 190+lm/w from each board. The lowest I can dim them is 173w. Just need to add the Pure UV bulb and it's good to go.

 

[WeedSexWeightsShakes]

Here it is lit up. 550w at the wall. Gonna be a beast of a light in this 4x2.5 tent I have, especially having it turned down, should be able to get 190+lm/w from each board. The lowest I can dim them is 173w. Just need to add the Pure UV bulb and it's good to go.View attachment 4146797 View attachment 4146798

I have a 320 w kit in my 2.5x4. Had to adjust it down to 300w was at 340 and had some yellowing. I just wish the boards were sideways for better spread. That thing you got there is gonna kill it.

 

[215Kush]

Here it is lit up. 550w at the wall. Gonna be a beast of a light in this 4x2.5 tent I have, especially having it turned down, should be able to get 190+lm/w from each board. The lowest I can dim them is 173w. Just need to add the Pure UV bulb and it's good to go.View attachment 4146797 View attachment 4146798

Nice! What kind of UV bulb are you using?

 

[Aolelon]

Nice! What kind of UV bulb are you using?

Agromax pure uv t5 2'

 

[Aolelon]

I have a 320 w kit in my 2.5x4. Had to adjust it down to 300w was at 340 and had some yellowing. I just wish the boards were sideways for better spread. That thing you got there is gonna kill it.

Yea I dont plan on ever running it the full 550, that would definitely be overkill. I was running 1 260w with 2 2' double row f-series strips and it worked well. Figured I would step it up a notch.

 

[Sleezygeezy]

Here it is lit up. 550w at the wall. Gonna be a beast of a light in this 4x2.5 tent I have, especially having it turned down, should be able to get 190+lm/w from each board. The lowest I can dim them is 173w. Just need to add the Pure UV bulb and it's good to go.View attachment 4146797 View attachment 4146798

Sweet build. I just happen to be looking for a voltage/current meter for my build. I'm gonna be running 2-304's per driver. And the driver I have maxxes out at 118v's. Your meter display looks like it's reading just that, 118v. What is the voltage rated for on that meter and where did u find it? I appreciate any info.

 

[Aolelon]

I have a 320 w kit in my 2.5x4. Had to adjust it down to 300w was at 340 and had some yellowing. I just wish the boards were sideways for better spread. That thing you got there is gonna kill it.

All the way turned down I'm at 173w between 4 boards. So that's 43.25w per board and 1.44A between the 4 so 367mA to each board of I'm calculating that right. Which should put me well into the 195-200lm/w range.

 

[Aolelon]

Sweet build. I just happen to be looking for a voltage/current meter for my build. I'm gonna be running 2-304's per driver. And the driver I have maxxes out at 118v's. Your meter display looks like it's reading just that, 118v. What is the voltage rated for on that meter and where did u find it? I appreciate any info.

I bought it on Amazon. They have 2 different types there, one that reads the DC side and one that read the AC side. The DC ones I was looking for only go up to 100v but the AC ones go up to 260v. Let me get u a link.

 

[Purpsmagurps]

I want to replace my 350w blurple with a 2700k qb.. go red as can be.

 

[Aolelon]

Here is the one I am using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078GGJB4P/ref=psdcmw_14244481_t2_B078GGNT9H

 

[Frank Nitty]

there is no set distance for hanging your LEDs.
When plants are young and not growing fast yet, you can look at the length of the petioles (the stems the leaves are on).
It grows them longer hoping to find light just a little bit higher.

Another sign that you can decrease the distance to the light is when the leaves hang horizontally with the floor even when well watered.
This is to maximize the surface area exposed for more light.

As the plants start getting to the phase where they put on nodes fast enough for you to use those to read the plant with. you can check node space to tell you how close the lights should be.
Long stretchy nodes need more light. Of course, you may do it intentionally if say, you are doing a vert grow.

Leaves pointing very far up is a way of reducing surface area to reduce the amount of light, so that is a good sign to raise the lights.

We often see the leaves in a slightly praying posture, which is fine, this says there is a little more light than the plant can process and stay cool enough at the same time, but it can manage it by simply lifting the leaves a little.

THere isn;t just one or two positions for your lights. Your plant's needs will change during its life. most of the changes are at the beginning and at the end.

What if my light is as high as it csn go and the leaves are reaching for it?

 

[Sleezygeezy]

I bought it on Amazon. They have 2 different types there, one that reads the DC side and one that read the AC side. The DC ones I was looking for only go up to 100v but the AC ones go up to 260v. Let me get u a link.

Oh, ok. So you are measuring it on the AC side of the wiring(between driver & wall), not the DC side (between driver & qb's)?

 

[Aolelon]

Oh, ok. So you are measuring it on the AC side of the wiring(between driver & wall), not the DC side (between driver & qb's)?

Yea, I havent found a DC one that goes above 100v without spending around 50+$ even then it just shows the voltage. It works the same