Should I prune a little or wait?
- Thread starter MisssMaryjane
- Start date
natureboygrower
Well-Known Member
12/12 from seed?awesome. do you do that often?Thank you
It’s an OG Kush x Trainwreck grown 12/12 from seed.
Jimdamick
Well-Known Member
Don't lollipop, it might look cool, but it actually sucks for you plants.
I tried it years ago when I was a new grower, and ended up cutting off branches that would have produced more bud.
Go ahead, chop one or two of your plants, but leave one alone, and you will see what I am talking about.
Good luck
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
you want to cut anything about an inch from the base. that leaves enough of a nub for the plant to take care of it itself. the plant will excise it itself, healing the "wound" before it's even visible. the stub produces ethylene as it dies, and that triggers the plant to get rid of it itself.
when it drops off naturally, the "wound" will be healed over.
when it drops off naturally, the "wound" will be healed over.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
No I only did it once before. I was cleaning out my veg room and got the idea.
Soon I will have the 315 LEC in veg. Been using t-5’s.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
I know this is super controversial on this site but if I were you I would get rid of some/most of the large fan leaves and snip any of the branches that arent going to get enough light. People growing with a lot of intense lighting probably dont need to, but from personal experience with LED I get a much better yield by a gradual defoliation to allow enough light to get to the undergrowth. Much less popcorn and if you do it right you can get the bottom branches to join the canopy by removing shading leaves. Good luck!
Good luck, and how did it go. Essentially if you want to clean out the undergrowth depends on your light penetration. If you get full penetration then no need to but if you don't you are right it will just steal from the ones that are getting light while the undergrowth slowly dies anyway. I grow under HID so I can't speak intelligently about LEDs so there is that caveat.Thanks all for the responses. I'll be trimming today. wish me luck.
I'd also use trimmers so you get a bit of a crush injury to seal the dermis of the plants. A good sharp scalpel will leave the dermis open and remove the cuticle. So it will give you a little more exposure to loss of fluid and infection. But in fast growing plants in a clean environment I'd be surprised if that was an issue.
Anyway please show your post trim pictures. I'd be interested in seeing them.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
Are you switching your lec from your bloom room? If so what are you replacing with? Probably my favorite light source I've used. I havent built a QB yet but probably will at some point. I read about ppl being even happier with the 4k bulb than the 31, which I have yet to try either but probably will next winter when I dust off my cmh.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
I pulled it a while ago. That little room gets too hot in summer. Going to build a larger space in my basement to run more light. Haven’t been able to decide what I want down there.
As a stand alone I feel the Hortilux 600 hps easily Beats 1 315 cmh in flower. I liked 2 600’s to 1 215cmh best for results talking of 3100k. I think the 4200k would have even more blue which I already don’t want from testing Hortilux blues and other combinations of what I have.
At a certain point of too much blue spectrum even 50/50 cmh and 600 hps or mh and hps I don’t like how compact the plants stay or how loose and leafy the buds can get.
But I have not tried multiple 315’s. Seems 3 might equal the 2 600’s.
I wish I had higher ceilings. I would run double ended hps.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
Wouldnt we all right?
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
I certainly am not going to tell anyone what to do with their plants but I can tell you what I do. I run Sea of Green in F&D hydro tables, when I grow weed. At two weeks in I'd say it's two early to take any leaves. What I do with seedlings I take snips for clones and code the seedling to the clone with colored thumb tacks. Coding helps identify males etc in the cloning bin. When "FFIM"ing the seedling I prefer to have at least three or four productive nodes under the cut.
Later, as growth continues and branches have established fans, the fan that started the shoot from the main stalk should just snap off with a gentle downward push on the stem of the fan. If this doesn't happen this leaf is not ready to come off. Scissors, razor blades should not be necessary for pruning fans. If the fan is not blocking direct light to a bud site there is no real reason to remove it other than old fan leaves can cause health problems to the plant. Take care not to get carried away because if you do, your buds will have a zillion eye leaves. I run seedlings for twelve weeks whether they like it or not and so sad to say good bye.
I don't top clones but I still remove fans the same way. I put them in SOG as soon as they are adequately rooted. The clones go for ten weeks.
I grow in Hydroton and when the table floods I can actually manipulate the plant by pushing it around by the roots when the table is flooded. I lean them off from the center of the table, a weird form of low stress training. Lava rock and Hydroton kinda floats...you want the floating kind for F&D. When the water leaves the table the plant will stay where you want it. Of course it will all start curling back up toward the light again but this makes it so lower bud sites get light also...and they curve up to the light also. Later when they start getting to heavy to support their own weight I use wire hook from the ceiling for support. I place a piece of thin card board and the wire to protect the stalk. LST should be done incrementally through out the grow...little by little. Two weeks is too early for LST.
The reason this pruning is done with SOG is because there are way to many plants in one little spot. This give you the opportunity to groom the best cuts. Not all cuts act the same...even if they are from the same lot.
After the first run of seedlings in a new op, it's all clones after that. It's a proven fact that a MJ plant will do best in the area in which it spawned.
I find one of those post office bags that hang on the rod rack works great for tossing the bunk into. It dries out nicely and later, when the bag is full, can be boiled for its oil
If you want to make binder for puddy hash, boil the bunk again after the alcohol simmer with water. Pour the water and alcohol with the resin in it in separate containers and boil the alcohol wash down with the water wash.This process makes it so the binder doesn't leave green streaks everywhere when it's press in with all the ground up inferior buds that's been collected. I grind the grind after the dry ASAP and put the powdered bud into a jar. I'd rather do this part a little at a time then all at once. Once in liquid state, water/alcohol, the resin can be kept in a cool place for quite a while. A little reverse osmosis water wouldn't hurt either, considering people might smoke it
Later, as growth continues and branches have established fans, the fan that started the shoot from the main stalk should just snap off with a gentle downward push on the stem of the fan. If this doesn't happen this leaf is not ready to come off. Scissors, razor blades should not be necessary for pruning fans. If the fan is not blocking direct light to a bud site there is no real reason to remove it other than old fan leaves can cause health problems to the plant. Take care not to get carried away because if you do, your buds will have a zillion eye leaves. I run seedlings for twelve weeks whether they like it or not and so sad to say good bye.
I don't top clones but I still remove fans the same way. I put them in SOG as soon as they are adequately rooted. The clones go for ten weeks.
I grow in Hydroton and when the table floods I can actually manipulate the plant by pushing it around by the roots when the table is flooded. I lean them off from the center of the table, a weird form of low stress training. Lava rock and Hydroton kinda floats...you want the floating kind for F&D. When the water leaves the table the plant will stay where you want it. Of course it will all start curling back up toward the light again but this makes it so lower bud sites get light also...and they curve up to the light also. Later when they start getting to heavy to support their own weight I use wire hook from the ceiling for support. I place a piece of thin card board and the wire to protect the stalk. LST should be done incrementally through out the grow...little by little. Two weeks is too early for LST.
The reason this pruning is done with SOG is because there are way to many plants in one little spot. This give you the opportunity to groom the best cuts. Not all cuts act the same...even if they are from the same lot.
After the first run of seedlings in a new op, it's all clones after that. It's a proven fact that a MJ plant will do best in the area in which it spawned.
I find one of those post office bags that hang on the rod rack works great for tossing the bunk into. It dries out nicely and later, when the bag is full, can be boiled for its oil
If you want to make binder for puddy hash, boil the bunk again after the alcohol simmer with water. Pour the water and alcohol with the resin in it in separate containers and boil the alcohol wash down with the water wash.This process makes it so the binder doesn't leave green streaks everywhere when it's press in with all the ground up inferior buds that's been collected. I grind the grind after the dry ASAP and put the powdered bud into a jar. I'd rather do this part a little at a time then all at once. Once in liquid state, water/alcohol, the resin can be kept in a cool place for quite a while. A little reverse osmosis water wouldn't hurt either, considering people might smoke it
In the summer here in my flower room the canopy idles around 105 with 10% humidity LOL.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
That can not be good for growth or quality.
I painstakingly keep the flower room 75-77 degrees lights on. 66-70 lights off. The room is designed with 1 intake and 2 exhaust fans. They all have speed control. I can dial in for all outside conditions affecting the room.
Next build will have this all automated with sensors and fan controllers.
And 45-60% humidity max. I use a whole house humidifier and dehumidifier to accomplish this in sunny Michigan. Lol.
And add air conditioning to the house in summer.
You would be shocked and surprised. I have no issues with quality and way more quantity than I want or need. This weed can grow surprisingly well in extreme conditions. But when you consider a large portion of its genetics are equatorial my growing conditions are not only tolerated but appreciated by the plant.
Here ya go. I'm not advocating anyone else grow like this but it works for me.
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Xs121
Well-Known Member
holy shit...and here I am thinking I have a problem with 73 40
I'm growing mostly for genetics and looking for certain effects. Since most are seeded buds they are not what most people would want anyway. So it helps I don't sell. I can't really complain and my genetics program continues apace.holy shit...and here I am thinking I have a problem with 73 40
I certainly would not argue with the pro breeders around here about how I grow being better. It isn't. But it works for me and my program.
Xs121
Well-Known Member
Open pollination?
Sometimes yes, it depends on what I'm doing.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Nice work. I am not arguing that it can work. And hotter temps can grow bigger buds.
But in extensive testing cooler temps will give much higher quality. My garden leans toward sativa heavy hybrids too.
Your plants are showing a lot of leaf stress. I strive for happy flat leaves. Of course there are so many more variables that come into play to get there.
Not criticizing. Just sharing my results. Everyone complains when I don’t reach a certain level. Especially me.
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
this is what pruning does to you....