Pistils turning brown/buds are small

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R1pN3r

New Member
Hello,

First post but ive been reading for a almost a year. This is my second grow and instead of dealing with plant sexes my friend gave me Blue Mystic AF seeds (not sure what company) and told me 7-9 weeks germination to harvest. 1ft-2ft and bushy.

Started on 1/9. Germinated in 2 days inside egg carton with fox farm coco loco (figured ide start it in same medium as final) and had to immediately move to the final box. Definitely stunted growth because i panicked and didnt remove the cardboard carton so after 3 days after tranplant, i tried taking carton out without disturbing roots and i believe i gave it quit a shock. Everything was slow from there.

Lights: vipar spectra 450w veg/bloom
Medium: fox farm coco loco in custom made 6-8 gallon smart pot
Temp: 74-78 but humidity is always low 25-35%

Showed hairs in day 30 so i freaked out becuase it was only 4 inches tall, with almost no growth, and topped to try to prolong veg. Only gave it 3 more days and the main stem split into 2.

Tried custom SCROG just a couple days ago while before i was LSTing it and trimming leaves for more budsites.

Some budsites are shriveling up the hairs and turbing brown. If my friend is right, this should be done within a week or two. Is this all im gonna see?! Or am i bieng impatient? I didnt think i messed this up that bad!

*there was some nute/light burn about 2 weeks ago but i moved light up to about 12 inches which was previously at 8 and now only keep veg light on*

Any help is so appreciated!
 

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Samblakaka

Samblakaka

Active Member
That second picture is waaayyyy too much light for that one plant, even with that whole area filled I would still want that light higher. Leds are super intense beams and not saying it's all light stress causing your issues but I definitely think your light is too badass for that plant
 
R

R1pN3r

New Member
Samblakaka said:
That second picture is waaayyyy too much light for that one plant, even with that whole area filled I would still want that light higher. Leds are super intense beams and not saying it's all light stress causing your issues but I definitely think your light is too badass for that plant
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Yes i think some problems are light too. In the first 3 picture, so its more clear, i turned the bloom so the picture comes out a bit better. The 4th picture was from when i burned it with too much light/nutes. The 5th picture is what the plant normally gets. I can try raising it higher but ill only get maybe 1 or 2 more inches of clearance. Should i try that?
 
Samblakaka

Samblakaka

Active Member
R1pN3r said:
Yes i think some problems are light too. In the first 3 picture, so its more clear, i turned the bloom so the picture comes out a bit better. The 4th picture was from when i burned it with too much light/nutes. The 5th picture is what the plant normally gets. I can try raising it higher but ill only get maybe 1 or 2 more inches of clearance. Should i try that?
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It would help a little bit but that's a very intense light for your setup
 
Capt. Trips

Capt. Trips

Well-Known Member
With a regular plant you can top and lst and prolong veg as long as you want. You can't with autos. They're going to flower when they want to, so doing things like topping accomplishes nothing but stunting the plant and negatively affecting your yield.

If you want to top and train, grow regular plants. Personally, I'll never understand the appeal of autos. They take all control away from the grower, and if something happens, there's no recovery time like there would be with regular plants.
 
Samblakaka

Samblakaka

Active Member
Capt. Trips said:
With a regular plant you can top and lst and prolong veg as long as you want. You can't with autos. They're going to flower when they want to, so doing things like topping accomplishes nothing but stunting the plant and negatively affecting your yield.

If you want to top and train, grow regular plants. Personally, I'll never understand the appeal of autos. They take all control away from the grower, and if something happens, there's no recovery time like there would be with regular plants.
Click to expand...
They're probably more suited to large scale commercial grows where time is of the essence
 
R

R1pN3r

New Member
Capt. Trips said:
With a regular plant you can top and lst and prolong veg as long as you want. You can't with autos. They're going to flower when they want to, so doing things like topping accomplishes nothing but stunting the plant and negatively affecting your yield.

If you want to top and train, grow regular plants. Personally, I'll never understand the appeal of autos. They take all control away from the grower, and if something happens, there's no recovery time like there would be with regular plants.
Click to expand...

Yes fer sure i agree. I learned so much from this grow but like i said in the original post, i only went with the auto because of the femanized aspect.
 
R

R1pN3r

New Member
Beachwalker said:
I'm curious how that flower bed drains?
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Well.. Lol theres a rock bed about 2 or 3 inches thick underneath the smart pot. I use some smart pots for vegetables and most of the time no matter how much water i pour they seem to always absorb it so i thought it was safe. Kinda sucks because i read alot about drainage ph and i can never properly get that kind of data:/
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
So the reason I asked is back in the 80s when I first started doing this I tried pretty much what you're doing and there was a fast and extremely toxic buildup in the root area (my rock bed was leka)

I didn't have as big a bed as that, so it might not happen quite as fast, but it wasn't much smaller, but I'm just telling you what happened to me, tried a few diffetent setups with varying success back then before I settled into Hydro

I'm into soil now, I use 3 gallon pots you might want to consider the great flexibility that they offer next run
-best of luck!
 
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R

R1pN3r

New Member
Beachwalker said:
So the reason I asked is back in the 80s when I first started doing this I tried pretty much what you're doing and there was a fast and extremely toxic buildup in the root area (my rock bed was leka)

I didn't have as big a bed as that, so it might not happen quite as fast, but it wasn't much smaller, but I'm just telling you what happened to me, tried a few diffetent setups with varying success back then before I settled into Hydro

I'm into soil now, I use 3 gallon pots you might want to consider the great flexibility that they offer next run
-best of luck!
Click to expand...
I layered it with coats of polyerthane and also 2 layers of plastic for the first grow. I did notice
Beachwalker said:
So the reason I asked is back in the 80s when I first started doing this I tried pretty much what you're doing and there was a fast and extremely toxic buildup in the root area (my rock bed was leka)

I didn't have as big a bed as that, so it might not happen quite as fast, but it wasn't much smaller, but I'm just telling you what happened to me, tried a few diffetent setups with varying success back then before I settled into Hydro

I'm into soil now, I use 3 gallon pots you might want to consider the great flexibility that they offer next run
-best of luck!
Click to expand...
Yes!!!! The first time that happened i had the soil in plastic with a rock bed and the roots were awful at the end. When this one ends im going to check the roots. The soil is in a smart pot now which in the center should be elevated, i tried building a mountian, and the rockbed is for the drainage which should stop the roots from getting to the rock bed. Or am i misunderstanding? I did see rot in the wood of the box from last time and now im thinking i could drill holes and have something to catch the runoff? Let me know your thoughts.

I could insert wooden planks to create a slight angle and coat that with polyurthane or plastic.

I need more yield to buy or build a well worth hydro set lol

*pics from visuals
 

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