F-Series Gen 3 DIY

[waynejohn]

Speaking of 200+ lm/w has anyone even seen the AY bin?Seems impossible to find anything with that bin, does it exist

 

[Randomblame]

Speaking of 200+ lm/w has anyone even seen the AY bin?Seems impossible to find anything with that bin, does it exist

Yeah, better bins exsists but they are rare. Also HLG can not get them regularly and use A1 as standard therefor.
But to be true, also 187lm/w is very impressive...!

 

[Dave455]

I drive LM561C diodes as close to 88ma as possible. It is not about heat loss but output of 200lm/w. Plants respond well to the light level even during flower period. Driving harder appears to the eye as brighter but you are growing plants not eyes.
Softer is better. Your choice of 8 strips works great

Thought the more photons, the better up to a point..

 

[wietefras]

Smart move best drive current is 88ma for highest output

No it's not. 200mA gives you a much "higher output". Or if you intended to say "most efficient" then driving at less then 88mA gives you higher efficiency still.

Driving harder appears to the eye as brighter but you are growing plants not eyes.

It doesn't just "look" brighter. It's more light which the plants use just as much as your eyes will see it's brighter.

Either way, 88mA is by no means some sort of optimum (or even optimal) value that people should aim for.

For each person there will be an optimal value, but it's based on other parameters. For instance the cost of electricity where you weigh the cost of the initial investment to run more efficiently versus savings in electricity. That equation works out differently if you pay 0.08 per kWh or when you pay 0.32 per kWh. In the first case running the SMDs harder is more economical and in the second case it makes sense to run softer and invest a bit more in the fixture to be more efficient. Still even then it ends at some point.

 

[waynejohn]

Yeah, better bins exsists but they are rare. Also HLG can not get them regularly and use A1 as standard therefor.
But to be true, also 187lm/w is very impressive...!

The strips are awesome and easy to work with i completely agree...i calculated in my build A1 184 lm/w and AY 198 lm/w, not a small difference at .097mA...i can get also 3500k DB instead of strips and run them at .875...AY would beat them probably but i am not sure where they stack up against A1 at those currents

 

[VegasWinner]

No it's not. 200mA gives you a much "higher output". Or if you intended to say "most efficient" then driving at less then 88mA gives you higher efficiency still.

It doesn't just "look" brighter. It's more light which the plants use just as much as your eyes will see it's brighter.

Either way, 88mA is by no means some sort of optimum (or even optimal) value that people should aim for.

For each person there will be an optimal value, but it's based on other parameters. For instance the cost of electricity where you weigh the cost of the initial investment to run more efficiently versus savings in electricity. That equation works out differently if you pay 0.08 per kWh or when you pay 0.32 per kWh. In the first case running the SMDs harder is more economical and in the second case it makes sense to run softer and invest a bit more in the fixture to be more efficient. Still even then it ends at some point.

go read Samsung data sheet 200ma is max output drive current. 88ma drives diode at 200lm/w

 

[VegasWinner]

No it's not. 200mA gives you a much "higher output". Or if you intended to say "most efficient" then driving at less then 88mA gives you higher efficiency still.

It doesn't just "look" brighter. It's more light which the plants use just as much as your eyes will see it's brighter.

Either way, 88mA is by no means some sort of optimum (or even optimal) value that people should aim for.

For each person there will be an optimal value, but it's based on other parameters. For instance the cost of electricity where you weigh the cost of the initial investment to run more efficiently versus savings in electricity. That equation works out differently if you pay 0.08 per kWh or when you pay 0.32 per kWh. In the first case running the SMDs harder is more economical and in the second case it makes sense to run softer and invest a bit more in the fixture to be more efficient. Still even then it ends at some point.

Please use science instead of your opinion which is meaningless here. lumens are measured with am meter If you measure at both drive current you would know. I have done that already so I know. Have you measured the light levels and the differences at various drive currents? probably not, just more conjecture. That is a disease around here, making SHIT up to match your desire instead of using science and the Samsung Calculator here -> http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg

I have already used the Samsung calculator and it makes your comment a moot point. why don't you try it and see what result you get for various drive currents.

 

[VegasWinner]

Speaking of 200+ lm/w has anyone even seen the AY bin?Seems impossible to find anything with that bin, does it exist

In the US ONLY for sale.

 

[wietefras]

go read Samsung data sheet 200ma is max output drive current.

Yes 200mA is max drive current yes. So that's where you get "highest output" and not at 88mA as you claimed. For 3000K 80 CRI it's 95lm on 200mA only 45lm on 88mA. 95lm is more than 45lm.

88ma drives diode at 200lm/w

Randomblame showed you already that you are wrong about this claim too. He showed it's closer to 182lm/W for a 3500K smd. You'd need to go as low as 32mA to arrive at 200lm/W. For a 3000K 80 CRI even as low as 25mA.

Please use science instead of your opinion which is meaningless here. lumens are measured with am meter If you measure at both drive current you would know. I have done that already so I know. Have you measured the light levels and the differences at various drive currents? probably not, just more conjecture. That is a disease around here, making SHIT up to match your desire instead of using science and the Samsung Calculator here -> http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg

I have already used the Samsung calculator and it makes your comment a moot point. why don't you try it and see what result you get for various drive currents.

Why do you always need two posts? You can't even remember that you replied already? Just like you are not quoting from the datasheet or calculator, but in fact YOU made shit up.

Anyway, since you posted twice, you are now are twice as wrong. MUHAHAHAHA