Light Quantity vs Light Quality Evidence ... Just for 4 u gg lol!

Do you think quantity is more important than quality


  • Total voters
    122

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
It's CH9 Blue Lemon Thai. She is the most potent one I have grown so far. She is diesel leaning. Gets you super high for hours. She has cured into a strong fuel with a light berry hint. Not exactly smooth after a few weeks but pretty delicious and potent.
Nice, I ran that one in a greenhouse experiment and she was very potent with a nice smell mold issues and all.
Have thought about getting some seeds and running it indoor
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Nice, I ran that one in a greenhouse experiment and she was very potent with a nice smell mold issues and all.
Have thought about getting some seeds and running it indoor
It has been a bit more difficult to pull the potential out of them than some but if you get the nutes right all three phenos I have grown are pretty amazing plants. They do not like salt buildup.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Nice, I ran that one in a greenhouse experiment and she was very potent with a nice smell mold issues and all.
Have thought about getting some seeds and running it indoor
Pete just emailed me for some pics for his Instagram account. His credit card system is back up. They are having the same banking trouble in Spain as here with the cc companies.
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
So what? I have had bleaching too. Using HPS even. One top grew way too close to the bulb and presto the tip turned white.
View attachment 3865512

I increased the distance between plant and top and the top (sort of) went back to normal development.

Just knock it off with the made up "science". An MJ site going for click bait articles is not a source for science let alone "facts". This has NOTHING to do with genetics variations. People get these bleached tops under burple lights all the time.

If anything it probably started as an April fools joke. Unfortunately there are always fools falling for it and think it's actually something and keep repeating the joke thinking it's "fact".

Seriously Wiefras you are a joke, in the other thread you pretty much denied albinism existed. Clearly you cannot tell the difference between bleaching and albinisim... Unfortunately it seems some have bought into your special brand of Bullshit and spin!
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Seriously Wiefras you are a joke, in the other thread you pretty much denied albinism existed. Clearly you cannot tell the difference between bleaching and albinisim... Unfortunately it seems some have bought into your special brand of Bullshit and spin!
That's a post from two weeks ago!!!

You had all this time to get your glasses and actually look at the photo's (or is it a guide dog you need?).Clearly only the tops closest to the light are white and the leaves closer to the lights are white or more yellow too. ie a utterly direct correlation between light intensity and light stress/bleaching.

Albinism would occur all over THE WHOLE PLANT.

Anyway, I guess I can put another retard on my ignore list.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
That's a post from two weeks ago!!!

You had all this time to get your glasses and actually look at the photo's (or is it a guide dog you need?).Clearly only the tops closest to the light are white and the leaves closer to the lights are white or more yellow too. ie a utterly direct correlation between light intensity and light stress/bleaching.

Albinism would occur all over THE WHOLE PLANT.
Bleaching is definately a real thing, i have bleached tips using HID lights , and numerous LEDs which include blurples and older style COB lights.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
@Yodaweed, Yeah I know right. I had it with HPS too (see the picture to which he replied). It stopped bleaching when I increased distance between light and plant.

Some people here you just can wonder how they even manage to switch on their computer. Although in his case apparently it does take two weeks.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
@Yodaweed, Yeah I know right. I had it with HPS too (see the picture to which he replied). It stopped bleaching when I increased distance between light and plant.

Some people here you just can wonder how they even manage to switch on their computer. Although in his case apparently it does take two weeks.
I accidentally bleached some of the top nugs on my last run under a 600w hps, the plant just was a lil too tall and directly under the light about 2 oz of top buds took a tip scorching. Happy growing.
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
Dear oh Dear Wietefras:lol:

Seems you need to be educated because clearly you are unable to research, or likely understand/recognise what you are seeing in your own grows, so let me help you out.

To quote;
"Other plants simply have white flowers or an overall white color but still produce green leaves. These kinds of plants are called albiflora".
http://study.com/academy/lesson/albinism-in-plants-characteristics-causes.html

That plant you tried to claim "is not" displaying albino traits clearly is... and no matter how much you try to cling onto your egotistical position you cannot change this fact.

Although you are more than welcome to keep on digging that big fat hole of yours:peace:
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
This is all growing environment 101 so to speak.

He just finished arguing with me here somewhere that I shouldn't use my HPS to heat my house in winter as it is inefficient. The other benefit is obviously a proper warm grow room. He is an "efficiency expert" but can't understand my lights offset my propane heating bill by over $500 every winter. He just has an agenda because he spent so much designing and building with the cobs. And they didn't fix his problems so he over sells them.

He has reported he over cooled his room with his water cooling and now suddenly after a lifetime of pot growing learned cold rooms hurt growth.

My response is meant to blanket all of his mis information and fantasy.

And I owe his silly egotistical forum expert ass from his condescending rudeness this summer. When he also had no idea what we were talking about.

Plus he showed his plants a lot lately after talking up his professionalism, creativity and results from experience. Have you seen them? I would listen rather than talk if they were mine.

Clearly there is some history between you two, but I have seen you both make some good posts so I am staying out of this one lol:peace:
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
funny but for a dead light they are the best selling grow lights on the market. and T5 efficiency is around 30% not the 15-20% the LED crowd claims but false claims are common with LED sellers
Word.

My t5 has smart ballast or what ever you call it. It pulses. I can catch the lines when I take pics. It raises the efficiency to close to 30%.

Hid can lose spectrum and detoriate up to 50% loss. T5 bulbs will only weaken by about 10% and that's it.

They are the most popular horticulture light. Maybe not cannabis but horticture in general.

I grow rock hard nugs with t5. I think the quality is better than anything else I have used.

I am fixing to redo my setup and order some cobs. I will keep t5. Probably a couple hundred watts each.

Agromax has some killer plant bulbs.
Screenshot_2017-01-17-15-33-01.png Screenshot_2017-01-17-15-31-50.png Screenshot_2017-01-17-15-32-02.png Screenshot_2017-01-17-15-38-36.png
I know these are single cola. Those pots are 15 inches wide, the two plants on the right were right at 3 feet. They are autos and I needed single cola pics. I also grow scrog. Starting a sog now.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
There's not 1000w cob, but yes if a single cob was able to have as much par as a 1000w hps it most likely would have better penetration because of reflector losses. Most COB's are run around 50-75 watts though, that's why they lack penetration. The only high wattage COB i know of is that flip opto one, and i havent heard much on it.
Actually there is a 2400 watt cob.

http://www.fcopto.com/flip-chip-opto-releases-2400-watt-flip-chip-cob-led/

They also make everything between 50 and 2400 watt cobs. I was offered a chance to test one at half price. The half price was still very expensive.
 

frica

Well-Known Member
Hid can lose spectrum and detoriate up to 50% loss. T5 bulbs will only weaken by about 10% and that's it.
DE Gavita has a lumen maintenance of 95% after 5000 hours. And is 90% after 10000 hours, roughly the same as a T5.
Osram T5s have a lumen maintenance of 95% after 4000 hours.
Same goes for Philips ones.


What T5s are you using?
There aren't very many that get to 30%, besides a few high efficiency philips ones.

And I'm very certain HPS is still the most used horticultural light, at least in professional setting.

At least most T5s are very cheap and it's not throwing away money like some LED panels, that are overpriced (Blackdog, Platinum, most cheap shit)
But LED tubes are getting cheaper too, and Osram (philips has similar ones) is already pumping out 150 lm/w LED tubes.(the cold ones)
The 3000K ones are 135 lm/w. (SubstiTUBE Advanced HF)
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
DE Gavita has a lumen maintenance of 95% after 5000 hours. And is 90% after 10000 hours, roughly the same as a T5.
Osram T5s have a lumen maintenance of 95% after 4000 hours.
Same goes for Philips ones.


What T5s are you using?
There aren't very many that get to 30%, besides a few high efficiency philips ones.

And I'm very certain HPS is still the most used horticultural light, at least in professional setting.

At least most T5s are very cheap and it's not throwing away money like some LED panels, that are overpriced (Blackdog, Platinum, most cheap shit)
But LED tubes are getting cheaper too, and Osram is already pumping out 150 lm/w LED tubes.
All this is true, but it's also true that COB LED, not to mention quantum boards, are already much more efficient and produce a better spectrum. They also last much longer. Any of these reasons would be good enough to justify an upgrade, all of them together make it a no brainer!
 
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