DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

[vahpor]

@sunny747 Efficiency, driver options, and light spread are limiting factors to a single LES design. There are some large cobs (Opto Luna's for ex, check out the thread about them here on RIU) that are designed to be driven hard. They are less efficient, but would probably handle a 4x4 tent by itself. You will need some serious cooling. So, with a larger driver and larger heatsink, you lose some of your 'savings'. It is simpler, but you have a lack of redundancy.

imo/e, cobs advantage is more pronounced when using many les. you get far less heat, far better coverage, w/o that single intense/hot spot. potentially allowing your plants grow more uniform and consistently.

The less efficient, the more heat you have to manage. Efficiency is how much power is converted to light. What isn't converted to light is turned into waste-heat.

Some chips are more efficient than others when driven hard, generally the large chips. ~45% efficiency would be my personal minimum from a modern chip.

Another thing to keep in mind, the cooler the chip, the more efficient it is as well.

Bring on the 1 cob revolution! Even 1 cob is better than throwing away more HID bulbs. And hopefully will get you to build some more LED devices.

 

[nevergoodenuf]

@BobCajun The CV drivers are not like a computers 12v source. If you go into the data sheets, you will see they act as a CC driver until they hit that voltage wall (48v, 60v) then the driver reverts to a CV. The COB only draws the voltage it requires. The only difference for us, is we call only run one COB on it, unless they are ran in parallel (minimum voltage change). This method has not given me any issues as long as we are cool properly and thermal paste application is consistent. I prefer the CC+CV drivers for the flexibility, if I want more C's, I add COB's. It only requires a Y.
Even on CC drivers, I have ran both parallel and series and sometimes both. No issues yet. So my thinking is if you already built some fixtures, but you want to upgrade cheaply, you can put 2 old fixture in parallel and put it on one driver. Now all your old lights are running more efficient and you have a driver free to start the next build.
@vahpor I like my COB's running over 150w each. Here's 4 COB's for a total of a thousand watts in a 4'x8' tent, kill it.

 

[topcat]

Thank you..

Here s a 60v at 2.6 amps.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HBG-160P-60A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt5PRBMPTWcaTdz0ax3t15k5ED5DVE8TEzmVYkWsCYhDA==

I'm just stuck on this thought because there is a producer putting together nice 55w units using 1812's I believe... I just like the single light design. I'd just like more watts. I guess there is no free lunch

View attachment 3870980

You might like this combination: HBG-160-60B, HBG-160 Connector Set, ModuLED Giga 152100-B-HBG. With the 1825, it would be about 140W, if I'm not mistaken. Maybe need the 152150 heat sink. I need verification from someone who knows for certain, I'm making an educated guess.

 

[BobCajun]

@BobCajun The CV drivers are not like a computers 12v source. If you go into the data sheets, you will see they act as a CC driver until they hit that voltage wall (48v, 60v) then the driver reverts to a CV. The COB only draws the voltage it requires. The only difference for us, is we call only run one COB on it, unless they are ran in parallel (minimum voltage change). This method has not given me any issues as long as we are cool properly and thermal paste application is consistent. I prefer the CC+CV drivers for the flexibility, if I want more C's, I add COB's. It only requires a Y.
Even on CC drivers, I have ran both parallel and series and sometimes both. No issues yet. So my thinking is if you already built some fixtures, but you want to upgrade cheaply, you can put 2 old fixture in parallel and put it on one driver. Now all your old lights are running more efficient and you have a driver free to start the next build.
@vahpor I like my COB's running over 150w each. Here's 4 COB's for a total of a thousand watts in a 4'x8' tent, kill it.View attachment 3871314

Maybe it's the reverse of constant current, where it supplies whatever voltage is required to maintain that current. Maybe with CV it supplies a steady voltage and only puts out as much current as required at that voltage.

 

[Godfather420]

?... I'm building a configuration running 9 vero29 bxrc-30g10k0-d-73 38v

Stumped as to whether or not go hlg 185h-c1400b or hlg 240h-c2100b.....The 240 gives me some room for flower power...but its ability to only dim to 1050 kinda sucks if I'm reading right? 1050ma x 37.2v=39.06 watts. the 185 allows me to get to 1400ma x 37.2=52.08 watts

I'd like to flower early under 40-50w per cob and be able to crank it up a lil towards the end.... I really wanna see these things can do. Any suggestions? These will be water cooled.

 

[SomeGuy]

It's been a while for me but checking in. Some really cool stuff being built. My vero18 bars are still pumping out bud and have more than paid for themselves.

I have a question. If you had a driver sitting around (pictured). What would you choose to drive w it? . I also have three actively cooled CPU heatsinks sitting around.

 

[BobCajun]

Any COB between 21 and 42v that can take 3.9 amps, or a few lower current ones wired in parallel. I think most Crees have a 3 amp maximum. Could put two in parallel running at just under 2 amps each. If one of them malfunctioned the other one would probably burn out though. For parallel it's probably best to use COBs that could take the full current each if required.

 

[SomeGuy]

Any COB between 21 and 42v that can take 3.9 amps, or a few lower current ones wired in parallel. I think most Crees have a 3 amp maximum. Could put two in parallel running at just under 2 amps each. If one of them malfunctioned the other one would probably burn out though. For parallel it's probably best to use COBs that could take the full current each if required.

Single chip option is best. Just need to find a big chip and chunky heatsink

 

[Darkfurion]

Hi guys and girls.
I have one question for you: I would like to connect 2 COBs Cree CXB3590 36V in series to this driver: ELG-150-C2100BE
Details about the driver:
Wattage: 150
Output Voltage: 36-72V
Current: 2100mA

Is this a good choice or should I search for another driver? Is it too hard for the LEDs to run them at 2100mA?

 

[Godfather420]

Any COB between 21 and 42v that can take 3.9 amps, or a few lower current ones wired in parallel. I think most Crees have a 3 amp maximum. Could put two in parallel running at just under 2 amps each. If one of them malfunctioned the other one would probably burn out though. For parallel it's probably best to use COBs that could take the full current each if required.

What about 3 at 1300ma? Just making sure i'm rolling along correctly

 

[Darkfurion]

What about 3 at 1300ma? Just making sure i'm rolling along correctly

Cree advises against using the LEDs wired in PARALEL.

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/XLamp Application Notes/CXA_design_guide.pdf

Multiple CX Family LEDs If multiple CX family LEDs are used in a luminaire, it is best to configure the LEDs in series, not parallel, or use a multi-channel driver

 

[Godfather420]

Cree advises against using the LEDs wired in PARALEL.

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED Components and Modules/XLamp/XLamp Application Notes/CXA_design_guide.pdf

Multiple CX Family LEDs If multiple CX family LEDs are used in a luminaire, it is best to configure the LEDs in series, not parallel, or use a multi-channel driver

Thanks for that

 

[BobCajun]

What about 3 at 1300ma? Just making sure i'm rolling along correctly

Yeah, you got it. But as mentioned by another poster, parallel wiring of COBs is not recommended. If you can afford to lose the COBs then it might be worth trying.

 

[rth]

for a single 3590 at 1400ma or two 3590 (36v) at 700ma in series: LCM-60U

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lcm-60u/mean-well-enterprises.

They run hot when @ full load, remove covers; add small heatsink; or create new cover/heatsink out of copper flashing. Can be pseudo-dimmed by switching voltage/amp. Or add proper dimmer.

 

[visajoe1]

It's been a while for me but checking in. Some really cool stuff being built. My vero18 bars are still pumping out bud and have more than paid for themselves.

I have a question. If you had a driver sitting around (pictured). What would you choose to drive w it? . I also have three actively cooled CPU heatsinks sitting around.
View attachment 3872884

I run (2) CLU048 1818 90CRI on the A version on this driver at 100%. It pumps

 

[visajoe1]

Hi guys, perhaps a silly question but so slow and hard to understand, I have the HLG-120H-48A and I just have a hard time understanding functionality???

It´s to power 2x CLU048 1818 but never used a driver that can do CV and CC, if I understood it correctly it should choose at first time it start up and driving 2x 1818 in parallel it should go into CC mode I suppose.

Hopefully you have it figured out by now, but yes, you can use that driver. It is borderline though, its underpowered for your cobs. Consider the 185h-48, that way you dont leave so much output on the table.

 

[SomeGuy]

I run (2) CLU048 1818 90CRI on the A version on this driver at 100%. It pumps

Nice! Thanks! Good suggestion. What do you use for cooling? Pin sinks? Active or passive? I'm guessing active cooling w that much wattage in two chips.

 

[visajoe1]

I use all of the above, lol. Passive pins, but I also have a fan aimed at both to help dissipate. I may turn the driver amperage down a bit, but I'm trying to determine my PPFD first before I give up light.

 

[Plant Lobbyist]

I use all of the above, lol. Passive pins, but I also have a fan aimed at both to help dissipate. I may turn the driver amperage down a bit, but I'm trying to determine my PPFD first before I give up light.

You aren't giving up light - you are improving efficiency and reducing heat.

To hit your target PPFD, just lower the light closer to the canopy.

Get a PAR meter and measure each of your CoBs at various distances and driver currents. Use that as a guide.

The math people use for planning might be off by 25% or more either way. Too many factors to consider so it is easier to use a meter in the actual environment. Plus the outcome is all that matters.

 

[KonopCh]

Hey guys, looking for high eff. driver to power 2x CLU 1825... or 3x CLU 1825 in the future (this option isn't neccesary).