shadow_moose
Well-Known Member
It seems like most people on this forum agree that you're the noob.That's untrue again, you can bleach plants under LEDs , its too much intensity....too many noobs on the LED forums here, its sad.
It seems like most people on this forum agree that you're the noob.That's untrue again, you can bleach plants under LEDs , its too much intensity....too many noobs on the LED forums here, its sad.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/chilled-grow-light.916935/page-5#post-13145585It seems like most people on this forum agree that you're the noob.
Naw, it's all good Rahz. I could care less. Just think it's MEGA-FUNNY how when some of these guys wanted Amare ppfd #'s & I went n got the Apogee MQ-200, they said that wasn't good enough so I had to get the MQ-500 par-meter. Pretty sure they did that as a stall tactic.I provide the data I would like to have access to if I were purchasing lights for myself. Using manufacturer data is as real and fair, and free from opinion and personal bias as it gets. I wouldn't purchase an LED based lamp without knowing the radiometric efficiency.
Unsuspecting noobs is 90% of LED growers.Naw, it's all good Rahz. I could care less. Just think it's MEGA-FUNNY how when some of these guys wanted Amare #'s & I went n got the Apogee MQ-200, they said that wasn't good enough so I had to get the MQ-500 par-meter. Pretty sure they did that as a stall tactic.
But they all know the diodes, cobs, & drivers in the unit.
Imagine if I tried to submit mathematical equations as the output. Lol!
I mean who am I right. Just a real grower showing live results.
Maybe that shit will fly in the bulb world but here we are discussing a very controversial means of growing called led & it requires real life data reflecting on the panels design, features & make-up.
But hey, if you're selling lights to unsuspecting noobs mostly, then more power to ya I guess.
I've been growing for two and a half years now. I just joined these forums after my local growers forum disappeared.https://www.rollitup.org/t/chilled-grow-light.916935/page-5#post-13145585
LED guy bleaching his plants, you even grow weed bro? I see you just joined the forum last month. That LED is all white light no IR.
http://www.marijuanagrowing.com/showthread.php?7465-Tips-for-Hash-TipsI've been growing for two and a half years now. I just joined these forums after my local growers forum disappeared.
I could very well be wrong, but every shred of experience I have had, and every bit of testing I've done points to you being wrong. The LED world is full of snake oil and everyone's trying to make a buck, we could easily just be bickering over semantics here while the guys selling us these products are rolling in it.
Your skepticism is healthy, your baseless claims aren't. Come back after you've done some testing for yourself and we can talk in a more civil manner. I
Hash tips and bleaching are two different things, no? I've had bleaching, and I've had plants with so called hash tips and they were different. Hash tips rang true to a mutation that resulted in massive excess trich production when I saw them, while bleaching was just a lack of chlorophyll from too much light that looks like more thrichs.bleaching aka hash tip is caused by having too much intensity.
I have gotten hash tip from panels too close to my plants , cobs too close to my plants, hps too close to my plants, its from too much intensity, its bleaching and it happens on the tips because they are closest to the light, you can bleach leafs too if they are too close. They fade so much they turn white. I grow big plants cause of dumb plant count laws so i am always pushing my plants as hard as i can( they grow really big and close as i can get them to the lights).Hash tips and bleaching are two different things, no? I've had bleaching, and I've had plants with so called hash tips and they were different. Hash tips rang true to a mutation that resulted in massive excess trich production when I saw them, while bleaching was just a lack of chlorophyll from too much light that looks like more thrichs.
When it comes to IR, DE fixtures output 15% or more of their light spectrum as IR. This contributes to but is not the sole reason for bleaching. Because of that excess IR output, you can put a 1000 watt DE closer to plants and you end up throwing more light on it than you think because IR is not visible spectrum. LED does not output IR, which means you can run a light with similar power closer to plants.
You're right on some points, I'm sorry if I came off as a dick, I'm struggling with chemical withdrawal because my pharmacy unexpectedly closed for the weekend and I'm not doing too well as a result.
Put it closer to your plant and it will bleach. Put it within 3 inches and watch what happens to the buds and leafs in that area.Bleaching is caused from intensity in conjunction w/ a deficient spectrum, regarding HPS. It has happened to me. Just erased all my pics in my phone yesterday but I posted examples on my thread if anyone's interested.
It's also caused by improper led spectrums, usually high in 660 & not ballenced out w/ a full spectrum.
Amare is one of the most intense LEDs available & does not bleach your buds. Why? Because they provide a true full spectrum high in 630nm which provides higher radiometric efficiency then 660 diodes.
Yeah, they would disintegrate. Lol!Put it closer to your plant and it will bleach. Put it within 3 inches and watch what happens to the buds and leafs in that area.
If you run A/C with good air movement (couple extra oscillating fans) like i do they won't burn they will just turn white. Once you got your temps perfect you dial in distance to light , medium and nutrients.Yeah, they would disintegrate. Lol!
I suspect they wanted PPFD figures based on the same formula they use for cobs. Nothing wrong with mapping out PPFD with a par meter but there are calibration issues and an inherent flaw in the data without a very tight grid using a lot of points. It would be more relevant to use the same process on two different lamps. In that case again, the accuracy isn't important, only that whatever inaccuracy exists is in both test samples. If you submitted PPFD figures based on the same formula everyone here uses people would probably thank you.Naw, it's all good Rahz. I could care less. Just think it's MEGA-FUNNY how when some of these guys wanted Amare ppfd #'s & I went n got the Apogee MQ-200, they said that wasn't good enough so I had to get the MQ-500 par-meter. Pretty sure they did that as a stall tactic.
But they all know the diodes, cobs, & drivers in the unit.
Imagine if I tried to submit mathematical equations as the output. Lol!
I mean who am I right. Just a real grower showing live results.
Maybe that shit will fly in the bulb world but here we are discussing a very controversial means of growing called led & it requires real life data reflecting on the panels design, features & make-up.
But hey, if you're selling lights to unsuspecting noobs mostly, then more power to ya I guess.
Do they? I'm pretty sure that's what all the fuss has been about! If that information has been released I missed it. Care to fill me in?But they all know the diodes, cobs, & drivers in the unit.
A cob fixture doesn't have the same center hot spot which is why they can be placed lower. The correct answer is that in a reflective area a single point source and multi point source will provide similar average PPFD at any particular height.A single point could be hung higher than a 1000w mutli diode fixture, that's why it's suggested you hang a large COB fixture 12-18 inches whereas you hang a 1000w DE light 3 ft +.
That's simply wrong, if you hang a 1000w DE light at 12 inches your plants will fry but you can hang a 1000w COB fixture at 12-18 inches.A cob fixture doesn't have the same center hot spot which is why they can be placed lower. The correct answer is that in a reflective area a single point source and multi point source will provide similar average PPFD at any particular height.
I provided it 100x & so has Victor.I suspect they wanted PPFD figures based on the same formula they use for cobs. Nothing wrong with mapping out PPFD with a par meter but there are calibration issues and an inherent flaw in the data without a very tight grid using a lot of points. It would be more relevant to use the same process on two different lamps. In that case again, the accuracy isn't important, only that whatever inaccuracy exists is in both test samples. If you submitted PPFD figures based on the same formula everyone here uses people would probably thank you.
Do they? I'm pretty sure that's what all the fuss has been about! If that information has been released I missed it. Care to fill me in?
As far as that goes, I try to be as transparent as possible, PPF, Par watts, PPFD in suggested footprints, and lumens along with component ID for the cobs and drivers/driver current used. There's no other technical information I as the manufacturer can provide.
So the drive current/s is what?I provided it 100x & so has Victor.
The readings will be low for COBs when they are placed as high as the DE is placed, what do you not understand.....it's like talking to a brick wall, hang that cob fixture 3 foot high and your plants would stretch like crazy.That's because the 1000w DE is very intense near the center. With cobs the intensity is spread out. Center will be lower and outer readings will be higher. Average readings will be similar provided the output is similar.