Pre Drilled Heatsink for boards

What size Heatsink (Read first post before voting)

  • 1 board per heatsink. Heatsinks can be connected together with L channel.

    Votes: 32 54.2%

  • 2 board per heatsink

    Votes: 14 23.7%

  • 3 board per heatsink

    Votes: 13 22.0%
  • Total voters
    59
ChaosHunter

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Robin will the heat sinks be made in a way that they become the chassis or will we have to build a frame for the heat sinks ? I've seen you guys do it both ways.
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
shadow_moose said:
Are these gonna be less costly than a simple plate of aluminum, or is the selling point pre-drilled and tapped, and also lighter?
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Slightly more expensive than plate.
Selling point is pre drilled, anodized
Was supposed to get a sample today but got delayed. May get it Friday
 
Big smo

Big smo

Well-Known Member
sixstring2112 said:
So a big ass thermal pad behind those boards on a decent heatsink should be good to 100 to 120w easy?
Still cant figure out how these run 3 or 4 boards off a single driver if they are 100v boards? What am i missing stephen?
Click to expand...
Series divides the voltage of the driver. While still giving the boards the same amperage.

Parallel divides the amperage. While still giving the boards the same voltage.

If your doing the DIY best bet is to understand this since cobkits has smoking deals on drivers
 
shines_like_gold

shines_like_gold

Member
hey robincnn,
i suggest to make them waterproof, so you can use them under the canopy, lighting the lower branches from bottom upwards. i think it makes sense to bring some light to the shadowier areas. way more beneficial than just adding more light to the fully lit top
 
vahpor

vahpor

Well-Known Member
shines_like_gold said:
hey robincnn,
i suggest to make them waterproof, so you can use them under the canopy, lighting the lower branches from bottom upwards. i think it makes sense to bring some light to the shadowier areas. way more beneficial than just adding more light to the fully lit top
Click to expand...
I, as well as many others, have thought the idea of side lighting and/or vert lighting with these. Put them along all 3 walls of the tent and way under driven (25w ea?). Super thin, w/o a heatsink?? I dabbled with the SMD 5050 and 7020 LED strips (as supplemental) in my small 2x2x3' tent as well as in 5 gal spacebucket grows. In the spacebucket I felt they had an effect, where they were VERY close/touching the plant, but less effective in the larger 2x2' space.. This seems like it'd work in the same manner for larger spaces, but with MUCH more power potential. Weather it'd be worth the cost to implement..I dunno, but I bet it'd fit well with those 500 and 700 ma efficiency nuts out there. ;)

A waterproof option would be really nice for this scenario, but likely isn't cheap/simple to do by the looks of the design.

I do want a couple for my 2x2'..some day.. Barely broke the 4x 3590s in, and I'm ready to get more efficient. This game...
 
AtterStiga

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
Is there a benefit from series or parallel wiring on these? Is the difference between optics and no optics quantified?
 
vahpor

vahpor

Well-Known Member
AtterStiga said:
Is there a benefit from series or parallel wiring on these? Is the difference between optics and no optics quantified?
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Series, parallel, or series-parallel are dependent on the driver used and drive current. There are pros and cons to each, but not really relevant/a concern in the way its applied here IMO.

I suspect bare is enough (as in, best bang for buck) for smaller reflective spaces/tents, specially with some canopy management to aid in there effectiveness. Bare will shed heat better in most situations, requiring less heatsink and potentially less ventilation for the space.

And optics have advantages in larger, open spaces with many chips providing overlaps and focusing light. It can be argued that optics are advantageous simply because they can provide some additional insurance and protection from physical harm, or from moisture/sprays.



For the record, I don't have experience w/ QBs specifically; this is simply my understanding from both real world application and 'stuff I've read'.
 
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Olive Drab Green

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Big smo said:
These would work good for very low wattage cobs. Are they available yet? I'm planning on a 30 cob 300w light for a 4x4 area.
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..300w from 30 emitters? Like, not even talking shit, but that's severely underdriven if you need 30 emitters for 300w. I get 241w from 3 emitters for a 4x2 area. Not to mention the cost of 30 emitters.
 
sixstring2112

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
shines_like_gold said:
hey robincnn,
i suggest to make them waterproof, so you can use them under the canopy, lighting the lower branches from bottom upwards. i think it makes sense to bring some light to the shadowier areas. way more beneficial than just adding more light to the fully lit top
Click to expand...
Im not so sure our plants want direct lighting from below.the leaf is designed to gather light from above and gather air/co2 from below.i guess i would. Need to see 2 clones side by side one with say 300w all from the top and one with 150w above and 150w below.in a vertical lite config the plant turns towards the light source and imo its not its natural state of growth and wastes some energy to conform to its environment and lighting.these plants are designed through evolution to grow upwards and spread out as they grow.just my take on bottom lights
 
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