Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Literally exactly what I was planning. I'm definitely going to include the 730nm far red, then determine the mono mix and when I add them based on what my budget is going to be.
I am building a canopy 10 (really a canopy 12) and was planning on 50w worth of royal blue and 50w of photo red.
I didn't see the mono stars in your pic, are they mounted to a separate frame?
yes in a straight bar 4' long so you can do that or get out cheaper and mount them right to the 1×1 tubing like on the bottom of my fixture, even though I haven't had the time to do it yet but you can see from the pic I have two 20" tubes where they will go, and go over keeping those cool and even dial them in with a small digital control that gives you complete control over any color you want. like a sting of blue or red or both and more.
 

welight

Well-Known Member
I think it's much stronger to rivet then also much cleaner looking.
As long as it works for you, not the way I would go, I dont think you can beat a set screw for strength, everything I rivet ends up coming loose, but then maybe I dont have the skill to rivet properly
Cheers
Mark
 

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
the bracket is not a fix for anything, its to make mounting heatsinks more flexible.
Cheers
Mark
flexibility isn't an issue either ,you are making excuses. no disrespect but I've been in business for myself for 18 years doing design and install for heating and air conditioning and I hear this type of stuff all the time. you are beating around the problem. want to fix it make the holes bigger with steal inserts. And that would probably be the best option. thank you
 

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
yes in a straight bar 4' long so you can do that or get out cheaper and mount them right to the 1×1 tubing like on the bottom of my fixture, even though I haven't had the time to do it yet but you can see from the pic I have two 20" tubes where they will go, and go over keeping those cool and even dial them in with a small digital control that gives you complete control over any color you want. like a sting of blue or red or both and more.
Also if you are making a canopy 10 which will rock the house for cheap Electric I wouldn't mount the hlg 320s to the light ,I would remote mount them.
 

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
g'day Mark,
Cant you make the hole deeper on the heatsink?
That way 1 screw fits all or 8mm would work
I here you man clearly you know what I'm talking about. I will say though taking a drill bit a little bit bigger and bore out the holes and a rivet goes right in, nice and clean on the surface ,and they hold tight and forever
 

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Thx for tip but in all honesty Rahz's lights are looking very Tasty :weed::leaf:
http://www.tastyled.com/product-p/t4-1750r.htm
I'll have to check that out but I see you are a vertical grower , we'll does Mr tasty have a design for that because I've built a big budda system with cobbs that would blow your mind. I'm not a sales man but me and my business partner are innovators. imagine taking a piece of X rail and being able to magneticly just pop the chip on as you buy them, one after another and it just powers up , that's what we are on the next generation of cobbs. Or where you can have zero clearance and make a regular room into two tears or all the way around the vertical system. pretty wild hah so I bet tasty is tasty but we're on some evolution type stuff.I doubt there doing that.
 

welight

Well-Known Member
flexibility isn't an issue either ,you are making excuses. no disrespect but I've been in business for myself for 18 years doing design and install for heating and air conditioning and I hear this type of stuff all the time. you are beating around the problem. want to fix it make the holes bigger with steal inserts. And that would probably be the best option. thank you
Not sure I get your point, the bracket is not a design to fix something, I gave no consideration to hole depth in regard to the bracket, other than ensuring the bracket thickness and possible rail thickness + hole depth will work with screws we ship, the two things are unrelated. the fix is shorter screws, our new 140mm heatsink we are now shipping has M4 screws and we will move to shorter screws based on the feedback, simple fix
Cheers
Mark
 

linky

Well-Known Member
I am interested in ordering 2 of the MAU5-24 Grow Kit's, but they want over 600 for shipping and over 200 for "handling" fees, seems way excessive to me, I definitely will not pay that much for shipping and handling fees. There a current discount code that works?
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
Oh and to be honest the cutter pin fin heatsinks are junk, All my side mount holes stripped out on me. So I drilled them out and used rivets instead. I grabbed ten more of the 140mm from PLC for my next light.
I have had communication with probably 100 people either here, on Youtube, or IG, about their Cutter Mau5 kits and builds. Thats 400 heatsinks, 8 applicable holes per heatsink, 3200 threaded screw holes. I have not heard a single complaint or criticism about the heatsinks.
 

DeMoNeye

Well-Known Member
I'm running a micro grow in a 60cmx60cm tent - would I get away with two COBs or would I need more?

I'm in the UK but would be happy to buy the light engines from you and purchase a driver locally (to save on postage).
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I'm running a micro grow in a 60cmx60cm tent - would I get away with two COBs or would I need more?

I'm in the UK but would be happy to buy the light engines from you and purchase a driver locally (to save on postage).
2 or 4 would be better. But if you run them hard like 64+watts you'd be alright with 2.
 

AtterStiga

Well-Known Member
Given the 140mm pin heatsink, cob holder, adapter and Angelina reflector, how many and which screws do I need? I believe that the side mounting holes are M4, but I might be mistaken. Please, just got over the weekend to source.

Edit: does anyone know what 18awg is called in Metricsland? A size that fits the cob holder...
 
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