Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Redoctober said:
Mark you are the best!!! I wish I could buy you a beer, or fax you one!

I'm sorry if I'm nitpicking, but when making a potentially substantial investment, I like to make sure I have my information straight so as to make a theoretically informed decision.

If it helps to know, I will be ordering a ton of COBs from you as soon as I figure this whole spectrum thing out!
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Im interested my self to see this, fax me a beer hmm sounds like a new app someone should come up with
Cheers
Mark
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Qjay420 said:
actually not harsh at all no disrespect! I use the screws that are speced out. if you built a light with the cutter heat sinks than you absolutely know that the side screws really don't work out. I really didn't want to bore out a threaded two holes per side of each heatsink then go back and buy rivets to do the job tight and right but I did because otherwise they would be flopping around. the heatsinks itself isn't bad. they are the same screw you use in the face of the heat sinks but longer.
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are you from cutter because I do have a question for you. Running a Cxb 3590 at 1400ma what is the max temp you want to see the heatsinks top out at.
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Qjay420 said:
actually not harsh at all no disrespect! I use the screws that are speced out. if you built a light with the cutter heat sinks than you absolutely know that the side screws really don't work out. I really didn't want to bore out a threaded two holes per side of each heatsink then go back and buy rivets to do the job tight and right but I did because otherwise they would be flopping around. the heatsinks itself isn't bad. they are the same screw you use in the face of the heat sinks but longer.
Click to expand...
The side holes are M3.5 not the same as the top M3, I have assembled a lot of these and not stripped any out so kinda intrigued as to how this happened. The heatsink holes are precision CNC drilled and tapped. So my apologies if you had issues but should not have been a problem
Cheers
Mark
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Qjay420 said:
are you from cutter because I do have a question for you. Running a Cxb 3590 at 1400ma what is the max temp you want to see the heatsinks top out at.
Click to expand...
yes I am Cutter as per my sig, you should be in the 50-70C range, hard to be specific as with pin fins it is related to the air flow in your grow area, more is better
Cheers
Mark
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
welight said:
The side holes are M3.5 not the same as the top M3, I have assembled a lot of these and not stripped any out so kinda intrigued as to how this happened. The heatsink holes are precision CNC drilled and tapped. So my apologies if you had issues but should not have been a problem
Cheers
Mark
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that's correct M 3.5 as I said same as face but longer. don't get me wrong I like them. But one turn to much and it stripped right out. Think about it thin little screws in soft aluminum.
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Also these are DIY so we use drills and bits ,and stuff like that, not drill presses and water jets. you are speaking engineer, I am speaking just get it done. but again no problem they are great and I will continue to buy from cutter.
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
Redoctober said:
Mark you are the best!!! I wish I could buy you a beer, or fax you one!

I'm sorry if I'm nitpicking, but when making a potentially substantial investment, I like to make sure I have my information straight so as to make a theoretically informed decision.

If it helps to know, I will be ordering a ton of COBs from you as soon as I figure this whole spectrum thing out!
Click to expand...
my suggestion to you sir would be to stick to the tried and true cxb 3590 3500k ,then toss in a few 3000k . Then make the spectrum complete with star boards, far red ,photo red , and royal blue. and you will beat out anything.
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Qjay420 said:
Also these are DIY so we use drills and bits ,and stuff like that, not drill presses and water jets. you are speaking engineer, I am speaking just get it done. but again no problem they are great and I will continue to buy from cutter.
Click to expand...
No worries, now I understand, the screws were too long, thanks for the feedback always appreciated.
Part of the idea with Side mounts is it is much easier to get lateral movement on the sink if required, we will have these available late this month for side mount coolers

This will give you up to 6 inches of Z movement as well as angular shaping of the sink if you want a little more light off the wall onto the plant on end assemblies, also the top of the bracket has a good range of slide so you could mount both 110 and 140mm heatsinks within the same rail system, if needed
Cheers
Mark
 
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verticalgrow

verticalgrow

Well-Known Member
welight said:
No worries, now I understand, the screws were too long,
Click to expand...
g'day Mark,
Are the heatsinks fixed? Does the M3.5mm screws fit correctly now or are they still to long?
i was gunna re-order more heatsinks, but not if i have to go buy bolts & washers to use as spacers
like the last batch of heatsinks you sold me.
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
verticalgrow said:
g'day Mark,
Are the heatsinks fixed? Does the M3.5mm screws fit correctly now or are they still to long?
i was gunna re-order more heatsinks, but not if i have to go buy bolts & washers to use as spacers
like the last batch of heatsinks you . don't bother you will have the same problem, it has nothing to do with the length of the screw. they do rivet in nicely though
Click to expand...
 
Qjay420

Qjay420

Well-Known Member
welight said:
No worries, now I understand, the screws were too long, thanks for the feedback always appreciated.
Part of the idea with Side mounts is it is much easier to get lateral movement on the sink if required, we will have these available late this month for side mount coolers

This will give you up to 6 inches of Z movement as well as angular shaping of the sink if you want a little more light off the wall onto the plant on end assemblies, also the top of the bracket has a good range of slide so you could mount both 110 and 140mm heatsinks within the same rail system, if needed
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
looks like waisted money buying brackets for something that is supposed to already work.
 
Redoctober

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
Qjay420 said:
my suggestion to you sir would be to stick to the tried and true cxb 3590 3500k ,then toss in a few 3000k . Then make the spectrum complete with star boards, far red ,photo red , and royal blue. and you will beat out anything.
Click to expand...
Literally exactly what I was planning. I'm definitely going to include the 730nm far red, then determine the mono mix and when I add them based on what my budget is going to be.
I am building a canopy 10 (really a canopy 12) and was planning on 50w worth of royal blue and 50w of photo red.
I didn't see the mono stars in your pic, are they mounted to a separate frame?
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
verticalgrow said:
g'day Mark,
Are the heatsinks fixed? Does the M3.5mm screws fit correctly now or are they still to long?
i was gunna re-order more heatsinks, but not if i have to go buy bolts & washers to use as spacers
like the last batch of heatsinks you sold me.
Click to expand...
Hi Vertical
Our screws may be a little long, but there is not a fix for this, the screw length was to try to account for multiple rail types, we are not going to know what thickness material people will use, so easier to have a longer screw, than lengthen a short one. I am happy to offer a range of screw lengths if that resolves the problem, what do you think the lengths should be?
Cheers
Mark
 
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