Water Only for OG Kush

iPot

iPot

Well-Known Member
Garden Tone (3-4-4)-has feather meal, bone meal, etc no fish stuff. Has CFU.
Bio Fish (7-7-2)-fish ocean mixture. Add fish to the mix
Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0)-phosphours
Langbeinite (0-0-22)-Potassium
High N Bat Shit (9-3-1)
High P Bat shit (0-7-0)- Phosphorus also 17% Ca.
Crab Meal (4-3-0)-chitin keep bugs away. hopefully.
Kelp Meal
Oyster Shell (96% calcium)

How does this look? I am trying to make a soil mix for og kush type strains. They like calcium all the time. Then lots of phosphorus and potassium during stretch. ime. I really want to keep it to 9-10 ingredients. I also want to use relatively fast release.

Leaving out worm castings because of fungus gnats.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
iPot said:
Garden Tone (3-4-4)-has feather meal, bone meal, etc no fish stuff. Has CFU.
Bio Fish (7-7-2)-fish ocean mixture. Add fish to the mix
Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0)-phosphours
Langbeinite (0-0-22)-Potassium
High N Bat Shit (9-3-1)
High P Bat shit (0-7-0)- Phosphorus also 17% Ca.
Crab Meal (4-3-0)-chitin keep bugs away. hopefully.
Kelp Meal
Oyster Shell (96% calcium)

How does this look? I am trying to make a soil mix for og kush type strains. They like calcium all the time. Then lots of phosphorus and potassium during stretch. ime. I really want to keep it to 9-10 ingredients. I also want to use relatively fast release.

Leaving out worm castings because of fungus gnats.
Click to expand...
I used Espoma products for a while and I switched to "Down to Earth" products instead. People say that it is better to mix the ingredients individually but if you are going to use a pre-mix, I would switch to this. Or just leave out the Espoma altogether, your list of individual amendments is pretty close to what most people are using on here, minus the espoma.


Ingredients: Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal, Langbeinite, Humates, Kelp Meal, Mycorrhizal Fungi and Beneficial Bacteria

You should not leave out the compost because that is a BIG part of your mix, it should be 1/3 of your mix!!! BIG, BIG thing to look over. I missed the concept for about 2yrs and I was too focused on amendments when it was the compost that does most of the work! If you have the resources, a leaf/grass compost is great! You can go a step further and add your amendments to the compost, dont worry about worms becuase they will show up on thier own!

DSC00512.JPG

I have rabbit manure compost in the bins on the right. The first stall on the left is a worm bin and I have 3 stalls full of rabbit bedding/manure. My new mix is leaves, grass, rabbit manure, and kelp. I almost didnt believe my friend when he told me that this is all that I need, but it is the best shit ever!!! Here is my kelp that I mixed in as I turned the compost...
DSC00509.JPG

It is the only thing that I have to pay for now. I have my own rabbits, but I found a guy on craigslist that has a rabbit farm and he was paying some kids to clean the stalls. They stopped showing up for work, so he put a add up for free manure!!!
DSC00510.JPG

If you are a weed-nerd, you have been brain-washed. I am still trying to forget some of the things that I learned from him!!!
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Here is the guy that I learned from. Try to be respectable when you talk to him please... I feel bad because he tells me about people that send him PM's and just argue with him, and I think that I might have sent a few his way... If you REALLY think that he is doing something wrong after 25yrs exp, just be respectable... He has the amendments listed that he uses, I feel that I cannot teach better than what has been posted already.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/greasemonkeys-compost-pile.893592/



I asked a lot more questions, so this is more of a question answer thread with some DIY projects lol...

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-worm-compost-bin-with-pics.904512/
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Advanced Nutrients in the organic section??? Please dont use chem ferts on your living organic soil, it will kill the micro-herd. It will break your wallet and ruin your operating costs!!!

Organics, you get to work for your soil and save money. All of the work is done before hand and you have beautiful plants that only need water!!! There is no sales gimmick for compost, so there is no market. They want to keep it a secret or something??? Shit, the organic store close to me sells 90% hydro equipment and they admitted it to me. I asked why they dont have a better selection of "organic" amendments because they are an "organic" store. They said that there is no market for it!
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
iPot said:
Garden Tone (3-4-4)-has feather meal, bone meal, etc no fish stuff. Has CFU.
Bio Fish (7-7-2)-fish ocean mixture. Add fish to the mix
Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0)-phosphours
Langbeinite (0-0-22)-Potassium
High N Bat Shit (9-3-1)
High P Bat shit (0-7-0)- Phosphorus also 17% Ca.
Crab Meal (4-3-0)-chitin keep bugs away. hopefully.
Kelp Meal
Oyster Shell (96% calcium)

How does this look? I am trying to make a soil mix for og kush type strains. They like calcium all the time. Then lots of phosphorus and potassium during stretch. ime. I really want to keep it to 9-10 ingredients. I also want to use relatively fast release.

Leaving out worm castings because of fungus gnats.
Click to expand...
you don't need all of that though man, you could get by with a lot less, and to a degree you may be flirting with toxicity issues there.
fish meal, fish bone meal, crab meal, and kelp meal.
I wouldn't worry about much else.
the guanos are best saved for teas, the langbeinite is great but use sparingly, I like it, but use in small amounts.
I would skip the garden tone.
and don't skip the worm castings man, they don't attract bugs, over moist conditions do.
keep in mind you could use the recipe you have, but those are a lot of redundant nutrients, and more isn't better when it comes to organics, especially if you plan on a water only.
that bio live is good stuff, and is affordable too. if you can't source separate ingredients, than i'd go with that.
but MORE important (to a degree) are those worm castings, you MUST have a good healthy source of microbes in order for those nutrients to be bio-available.
you mentioned fast release, you'll be kicking yourself if you don't have a good microbial base to start with, those nutrients can't be used otherwise
and you want oyster flour, not shell, the shells don't breakdown for a looong ass time, and if you want calcium you'll want flour instead.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Here is the guy that I learned from. Try to be respectable when you talk to him please... I feel bad because he tells me about people that send him PM's and just argue with him, and I think that I might have sent a few his way... If you REALLY think that he is doing something wrong after 25yrs exp, just be respectable... He has the amendments listed that he uses, I feel that I cannot teach better than what has been posted already.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/greasemonkeys-compost-pile.893592/



I asked a lot more questions, so this is more of a question answer thread with some DIY projects lol...

https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-worm-compost-bin-with-pics.904512/
Click to expand...
that's one of the nicest things to hear man, and it's the only reason I am here, to share the beauty of a compost based mix.
almost too easy.
and don't sweat the new members, sometime I get pm'ed and they want o hear certain "advice" so if it's not what they want to hear, they argue.
same thing happens in my shop.

customer -" but I saw a youtube video for the same check engine light, are you sure it's not that?"
me- "yes ma'am, I am sure, that is for a totally unrelated issue on a different engine"
customer- "but the code is the same though, can you double check?"
me- "yes, I will double check"

then they leave and I am forced to use expletives in colorful manners
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
AnimalMother1974 said:
So nutes like Jack's and Miracle Grow kill benificial bacteria? Kill all like sterile? Or just kills alot of them?
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well it damages the microbial life, I doubt it sterilizes them at all, microbes are resilient, but the point is, why feed chelated nutrients in an organic soil? it's counterproductive.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Last edited:
AnimalMother1974

AnimalMother1974

Active Member
MeJuana

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
Teaming with microbes says chemical salts kills the micro organisms we know and love. But you should understand when you add chemical salts a new host of micro organisms suddenly appear that can process chem salts. So you can say that it kills the micro organisms or you could say it doesn't kill the micro organisms in both cases you're right. Makes for a funny argument.
 
AnimalMother1974

AnimalMother1974

Active Member
greasemonkeymann said:
sorta, but not in the ways you'd think.
it's food for microorganism mostly, meaning it encourages microbial life, and yes there are microbes in it as well, but if you are looking to inoculate a soil mix you should be looking at compost or worm castings as the source of microbes
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$9 at walmart. Pennington worm castings


http://www.pennington.com/all-produ...soil-ammendment/pennington-earthworm-castings

Have the bottle here, but didnt not use yet.
Looks healthy, black, and rich, apparently it contains chemicals known to the state of CA to cause cancer. I dont why the hell anything like that would be in EWC.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
AnimalMother1974 said:
$9 at walmart. Pennington worm castings


http://www.pennington.com/all-produ...soil-ammendment/pennington-earthworm-castings

Have the bottle here, but didnt not use yet.
Looks healthy, black, and rich, apparently it contains chemicals known to the state of CA to cause cancer. I dont why the hell anything like that would be in EWC.
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ahh man...
it says on the bottom specifically NOT for organic gardens...
and wtf in it causes cancer??
not to mention the whole concept of a compost tea is to add aerobic microbial life, which is impossible in a sealed anaerobic bottle..
i'd just start a wormbin man, it's pretty fun actually, and is simple, good for the environment, and good for your plants.
its a win/win/win/win
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
ahh man...
it says on the bottom specifically NOT for organic gardens...
and wtf in it causes cancer??
not to mention the whole concept of a compost tea is to add aerobic microbial life, which is impossible in a sealed anaerobic bottle..
i'd just start a wormbin man, it's pretty fun actually, and is simple, good for the environment, and good for your plants.
its a win/win/win/win
Click to expand...
Really, THAT!!!! ^^^^^

Starting a worm bin is ABSOLUTELY the best thing you can do for ANY organic growing. Takes up a big 3sq ft of space in a corner somewhere. This is #1

No's 2 and 3, if you have a yard, is start a few Comfrey plants and a compost pile. Comfrey is called "land kelp" for a good reason and homemade compost needs no explanation.

A DIY worm bin and worms can be made for under $50 including the worms, less than a bag of just 'decent' castings and be orders of magnitude more full of life than anything you can buy. Really!

Wet
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
i pulled a qp off a jupiter OG with just fermented kitchen garbage.. it had a couple whole onions in it and a bunch of other kitchen crap. brainlessly simple.

ferment the food waste in a 5gal pail with layers of bokashi for 2 weeks in a 72-80 degree environment

dig a trench about a yard long in a raised bed and pour in the fermented kitchen garbage (FKG)

cover over with soil and stab it a few times with the shovel

let compost for another 2 weeks

plant a half gallon-3 gallon plant right into it

only use water, microbes, and molasses from there on out.
 
AnimalMother1974

AnimalMother1974

Active Member
Wetdog said:
Really, THAT!!!! ^^^^^

Starting a worm bin is ABSOLUTELY the best thing you can do for ANY organic growing. Takes up a big 3sq ft of space in a corner somewhere. This is #1

No's 2 and 3, if you have a yard, is start a few Comfrey plants and a compost pile. Comfrey is called "land kelp" for a good reason and homemade compost needs no explanation.

A DIY worm bin and worms can be made for under $50 including the worms, less than a bag of just 'decent' castings and be orders of magnitude more full of life than anything you can buy. Really!

Wet
Click to expand...
Im extremely crafty and can probably make a worm bin for free. I have junk laying around I can convert. Also can gather worms for free too.
 
iHearAll

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
AnimalMother1974 said:
Im extremely crafty and can probably make a worm bin for free. I have junk laying around I can convert. Also can gather worms for free too.
Click to expand...
african night crawler (not canadian) is a great breed but has to found online most times. They poo on the surface of the worm bin and if you are watering with an autmatic misting system, the casting on the surface wont disolve back into the bin and can be scraped over to a side of the bin. wait 20-30 min to let anyone who was poopin the chance to go home. scrape up pure casting.

red wigglers are great eaters and poopers but are dirty. they eat and poop in the same place and make it so you have to let a bin completely get consumed before harvesting. the worms have to be baited into a net if they are to be reused for the next batch. good thing for red wigglers is "the worm factory". that is a stack of worm trays with holes in the bottoms of each tray. each tray is a separate maturity of castings until it is pure, emptied, and reloaded with kitchen scraps

dont feed worms citrus or meat

compost meat, or not.. just dont feed it to the worms. ive just read they dont like citrus but havent really noticed one way or the other. figured id pass it on for what its worth.
 
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