Spectral lightmeter Gigahertz-Optik MSC15

JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Hey @Malocan, can you adjust the meter to define a wider PAR range?

I don't have data for the CXB3590 3500K 80 CRI, but the 2700K 90 CRI looks something like this:

Screen Shot 2016-07-11 at 11.17.07 AM.png

So that 7.3% isn't being counted; that's the trade off with extra far red with 90 CRI, and it's more than double what the CXB would have above 700nm. Either way impressive performance at 30W against an 3500K 80 CRI.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Taken from the website of MSC15 but all other sources say par can only be measured in these ranges too. Or Par is literally only measurable between 400 and 700nm
Measurement of Effective Photosynthesis Lighting
In order to evaluate the effectiveness of lighting in plant growth, agronomy, greenhouse design and maintenance, Photosynthetically Active Photon Flux Density, PPFD or short PFD radiation is measured. PAR is measured in quantum units of µmol/(m²s) from 400 to 700 nm. The MSC15 spectral measurement method ensures accurate readings regardless of light source type (natural or artificial).

https://www.gigahertz-optik.de/en-us/product/msc15

edit Sorry for butting in, I was bored and noticed the question so looked it up.
 
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JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
Taken from the website of MSC15 but all other sources say par can only be measured in these ranges too. Or Par is literally only between 400 and 700nm
Measurement of Effective Photosynthesis Lighting
In order to evaluate the effectiveness of lighting in plant growth, agronomy, greenhouse design and maintenance, Photosynthetically Active Photon Flux Density, PPFD or short PFD radiation is measured. PAR is measured in quantum units of µmol/(m²s) from 400 to 700 nm. The MSC15 spectral measurement method ensures accurate readings regardless of light source type (natural or artificial).
Click to expand...
Eh, I've seen it definined as broadly as 380-720nm. Depends on whose talking, definitely not "all sources".
 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
In 2 days i got a new driver ELG-150-54b, then i will do 2 new tests. One @50watt and the other at @100watt.
Again the same cobs, clu058-1825/ 2700k 90cri vs cxb 3590 /3500kCD 80cri .
Not really fair test between the cobs, but im still interested at the numbers.
As soon i have datas i will share
 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Hi @JorgeGonzales
if you have time and mood please help me.
i would like to know if i connect one cxb3590 to a ELG-150-54b and then i dimm the cob to 50watt, how high is then the driver load %
 
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Malocan said:
Hi @JorgeGonzales
if you have time and mood please help me.
i would like to know if i connect one cxb3590 to a ELG-150-54b and then i dimm the cob to 50watt, how high is then the driver load %
Click to expand...
That's tough to say, you'd have to know the efficiency of the driver at ~30% load. Data sheet doesn't go that low, and test report is way higher performance than the data sheet.

It's best to measure voltage and current directly to get the wattage, especially using different drivers with potentially different efficiency. Man, it's always something to remember.

Do you have a multimeter? Using the same driver, you could set your current to 1.4A, measure the CXB3590, and then match the watts from the wall using the same driver for the CLU058. Then they would both be the same watts, close to 50W.

Does that make sense?
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
testing Amps with that schematic is correct... but i would not use it for some reasons

here is a schematic were you can test current and voltage with one Multimeter without changing the circuit

point a is fixed plus or minus does´t matter here. the other probe goes to b for current or c for voltage testing.
the only thing you have to do is changing the voltage range
always start with the 200 v setting and test point c. with the same setting test point b and then change the setting to 2 volts for a better reading...
...this is just a safety rule for working with multimeters... start with the highest range as you never know what going on in a circuit..

.schematic.gif
checking Voltage and current at nearly the same time gives real watts as there is no driver influence here ,
simply multiply Voltage and current and you have you have the Power of your cob.

some solutions for the resistor

cheap and simple

http://www.reichelt.de/9-Watt-axial/9W-AXIAL-1-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=3657&GROUPID=3118&artnr=9W+AXIAL+1,0
10% tolerance for the current. just a bit high

3 of this 0.33 Ohm resistors in series comes close to 1 Ohm. and powerhandling is 6 Watt
5% toleranz for the current. good enough for a first test

http://www.reichelt.de/2-Watt-axial/2W-DRAHT-0-33/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=2262&GROUPID=3116&artnr=2W+DRAHT+0,33
-----------------------


more work, needs soldering. a vero-board helps alot...

10 of this 10 Ohm resistors in parallel gives 1 Ohm. powerhandling is also 6 Watt
here we have 1% tolerance for the current.

http://www.reichelt.de/0-6W-1-10-0-Ohm-97-6-Ohm/METALL-10-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=11448&GROUPID=3076&artnr=METALL+10,0

same can be build with 0.1% tolerance for the current with this resistors.

http://www.reichelt.de/Metall-0-1-5-10-Ohm-82-5-Ohm/MPR-10-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=12769&GROUPID=3102&artnr=MPR+10,0

vero-board
http://www.reichelt.de/Streifenraster/H25SR050/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=8275&GROUPID=3373&artnr=H25SR050





 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
wow thanks @ guod, very helpfull for me.

I will try it out for sure, as soon i have the materials, i would like to use this method
guod said:
same can be build with 0.1% tolerance for the current with this resistors.

http://www.reichelt.de/Metall-0-1-5...A=2&ARTICLE=12769&GROUPID=3102&artnr=MPR+10,0

vero-board
http://www.reichelt.de/Streifenrast...LA=2&ARTICLE=8275&GROUPID=3373&artnr=H25SR050
Click to expand...
I have a solder iron, i just need to order this parts. They are cheap, i will order some more and train my solder skills.
 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
guod said:
testing Amps with that schematic is correct... but i would not use it for some reasons

here is a schematic were you can test current and voltage with one Multimeter without changing the circuit

point a is fixed plus or minus does´t matter here. the other probe goes to b for current or c for voltage testing.
the only thing you have to do is changing the voltage range
always start with the 200 v setting and test point c. with the same setting test point b and then change the setting to 2 volts for a better reading...
...this is just a safety rule for working with multimeters... start with the highest range as you never know what going on in a circuit..

.View attachment 3730720
checking Voltage and current at nearly the same time gives real watts as there is no driver influence here ,
simply multiply Voltage and current and you have you have the Power of your cob.

some solutions for the resistor

cheap and simple

http://www.reichelt.de/9-Watt-axial/9W-AXIAL-1-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=3657&GROUPID=3118&artnr=9W+AXIAL+1,0
10% tolerance for the current. just a bit high

3 of this 0.33 Ohm resistors in series comes close to 1 Ohm. and powerhandling is 6 Watt
5% toleranz for the current. good enough for a first test

http://www.reichelt.de/2-Watt-axial/2W-DRAHT-0-33/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=2262&GROUPID=3116&artnr=2W+DRAHT+0,33
-----------------------


more work, needs soldering. a vero-board helps alot...

10 of this 10 Ohm resistors in parallel gives 1 Ohm. powerhandling is also 6 Watt
here we have 1% tolerance for the current.

http://www.reichelt.de/0-6W-1-10-0-Ohm-97-6-Ohm/METALL-10-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=11448&GROUPID=3076&artnr=METALL+10,0

same can be build with 0.1% tolerance for the current with this resistors.



http://www.reichelt.de/Metall-0-1-5-10-Ohm-82-5-Ohm/MPR-10-0/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=12769&GROUPID=3102&artnr=MPR+10,0

vero-board
http://www.reichelt.de/Streifenraster/H25SR050/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=8275&GROUPID=3373&artnr=H25SR050
Click to expand...

Hi @guod
today i got the parts, i finished to solder it. I did a first test, and it seems to work pretty good. I will post later some pictures and measurements. Thanks for the advice, really nice8-)
 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Hi guysbongsmilie
i finished finally the first tests, again clu058-2700k-90cri against cree cxb3590-3500k-80cri.
But this time they did run around 49 watt, and i used the measurement method which guod told me.
So i used a multimeter to check Ampere and Volt, so i could multiplicate them to got the watts.

Test conditions:
-60cm*60cm footprint with 49 points in a Gorila 4*4 tent
-The frontdoor of the gorilla tent was open, so dont wonder if the # from 1-7 are a bit lower
-exhaust fan was on, around 360m/h3
-Cobs was mounted on different heatsinks of the same type
-ambient temperature was around 24C
-I let every cob run for around 2hours before i did the test
-i checked Volt and Ampere after 2 hours running the led, to got the "correct" numbers
-pin fin heatsinks /passive
-no reflector or lens
-arctic mx 4 apllied with hard razor blade, pretty thin layer only
 

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BM9AGS

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Does your meter adjust for spectrum? Seems like the 3500k should be a bit more higher than the 2700k. Or is the clu058 just that good?
 
Malocan

Malocan

Well-Known Member
BM9AGS said:
Does your meter adjust for spectrum? Seems like the 3500k should be a bit more higher than the 2700k. Or is the clu058 just that good?
Click to expand...
my meter does that automatic. my first thought is that clu058@49watt is just better or similar good, but maybe im wrong or my tests. Citizen chip has bigger LES and is much newer in compare to cree cxb 3590.
 
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