Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

[Airwalker16]

I am a diy noob, actually very new to growing but interested very much in the cob less you all are talking about. I saw a post comparing Lec to DIY cobs. Is there a pre made option? If someone has time can they send me in the right direction for further advice on purchasing a device that would beat the Lec closely the same prode





I am a diy noob, actually very new to growing but interested very much in the cob less you all are talking about. I saw a post comparing Lec to DIY cobs. Is there a pre made option? If someone has time can they send me in the right direction for further advice on purchasing a device that would beat the Lec closely the same prode

Www.tastyled.com
Www.pacificlightconcepts.com
Www.northerngrowlights.com
Www.johnsongrowlights.com

 

[cdgmoney250]

... and we could offer a kit for the Vero
Cheers
Mark

Probably not a bad idea...

 

[GrumpyToker]

Could anyone recommend a dimmer? will i need a potentiometer for hooking it up with this kit?

2nd that and what else will we need to source aluminum angle iron?

 

[BOBBY_G]

If that comes with the built in holder, do you know the pitch on the screw mounting holes, I can tell you then if it can mount on to the cooler? and we could offer a kit for the Vero
Cheers
Mark

id like to see a universal design that could handle 3590s, 3070s, and vero 29s and 22s. just a few more holes

 

[Airwalker16]

id like to see a universal design that could handle 3590s, 3070s, and vero 29s and 22s. just a few more holes

That seems like a No-Brainer to me. Also a huge window of opportunity to suit everyone's needs and bring in many more customers.

 

[welight]

That seems like a No-Brainer to me. Also a huge window of opportunity to suit everyone's needs and bring in many more customers.

The next run of coolers will be predrilled and tapped for 3590/ideal and 3070/ideal. i will check the hole patterns on Vero and see what we can do
cheers
Mark

 

[Calvin Noir]

Hi Cal
Yes the web site states more heatsinks(missing component) should ship next week, all other parts in stock
Cheers
Mark

Hi Mark,
I like the black anodized version of the heatsink. Would this heatsink be enough to cool [email protected] passively or with a fan blowing across the top of them? I hope to run between 1400ma <--> 1750ma from the driver.

While i was waiting on a reply from you, I did some reading through other threads and came to the conclusion that the clear anodized version will be ready for shipping by the end of April and the black anodized version wont ship until the start/middle of May. The back-orders will go out first in a FIFO (First In First Out) process and any new orders will ship sometime after that. I am looking to have my light built, tested and operational at the latest 3 weeks. Any delay on your side (processing orders, shipping) for whatever reason will create a longer period than 3 weeks i will/would have to wait patiently until receiving my order. So in conclusion I ask you, when will the black anodized version of the MauIV kits be really shipping out to customers after they place their order with Cutter?

Have a nice day

 

[anomolies]

does the HB78-90 90 degree Glass optic with Stainless Mount fit the 3590? Was wondering if you offer the glass cover instead of the Angelina.

btw Mark did price go up almost $200 on the 8cob kit? I don't mind if you need to raise prices, but ordering two, 4 cob kits is cheaper than the 8 cob kit. What's the reason for that?

 

[Airwalker16]

does the HB78-90 90 degree Glass optic with Stainless Mount fit the 3590? Was wondering if you offer the glass cover instead of the Angelina.

btw Mark did price go up almost $200 on the 8cob kit? I don't mind if you need to raise prices, but ordering two, 4 cob kits is cheaper than the 8 cob kit. What's the reason for that?

No King Brites 78MM Lens will not for cxb3590. You need the 120MM.

 

[hillbill]

Northern Grow looks nice.

 

[BobCajun]

If that comes with the built in holder, do you know the pitch on the screw mounting holes, I can tell you then if it can mount on to the cooler? and we could offer a kit for the Vero
Cheers
Mark

I'm actually new to the Bridgelux stuff myself so can't really offer much information. This data sheet that I linked earlier is all I can provide. But I don't see anyone else offering kits or ready-made units with the cheap $15 V22s so it wouldn't be hard to undercut them all, I would think. You can run 6 of them from one HLG-240H at 1050 ma I think. Maybe make a 6 COB unit. The 240s are the best buy in drivers and the V22s are the best buy in COBs.
You could probably use these BJB connectors. They're only rated for 2 A 60VDC but you could use them with the 1050 ma drivers.

 

[BobCajun]

2nd that and what else will we need to source aluminum angle iron?

On page 1 it says a 0-10v dimmer is included, presumably a 100k potentiometer, they don't actually say what it is but that's what everyone uses. BTW, I don't recommend using a PWM dimmer. It doesn't increase efficiency at all. I used it for experimenting with pulsed light, but it didn't seem to be working very well so I went back to full steady light. PWM is only good for dimming where you want the spectrum to stay exactly the same at all dimming levels. In plant growing, the exact spectrum is not that important. The spectrum at lower current is actually "warmer" than normal, which is probably favorable.

Most white LEDs use a blue LED “photon pump” allied to an yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG) phosphor. Some of the photons from the blue LED pass through the phosphor unaffected, while others are absorbed by the material and re-emitted in the yellow part of the spectrum. The eye perceives the combination of blue and yellow light as white. At low current, the light looks ‘warmer’ (more yellow). However, at high current, the phosphor becomes less efficient and the blue emission becomes more dominant, making the light ‘cooler’ or bluish. LED manufacturers specify that their devices will produce the nominal CCT at a particular forward voltage. source.

About the angle aluminum, I guess whoever has the best price locally. Pretty common item and probably not worth the price to ship.

 

[Airwalker16]

On page 1 it says a 0-10v dimmer is included, presumably a 100k potentiometer, they don't actually say what it is but that's what everyone uses. BTW, I don't recommend using a PWM dimmer. It doesn't increase efficiency at all. I used it for experimenting with pulsed light, but it didn't seem to be working very well so I went back to full steady light. PWM is only good for dimming where you want the spectrum to stay exactly the same at all dimming levels. In plant growing, the exact spectrum is not that important. The spectrum at lower power may even be better, idk. Haven't seen graphs of both yet.

About the angle aluminum, I guess whoever has the best price locally. Pretty common item and probably not worth the price to ship.

They cut out the dimmer cause it was too costly.

 

[Airwalker16]

On page 1 it says a 0-10v dimmer is included, presumably a 100k potentiometer, they don't actually say what it is but that's what everyone uses. BTW, I don't recommend using a PWM dimmer. It doesn't increase efficiency at all. I used it for experimenting with pulsed light, but it didn't seem to be working very well so I went back to full steady light. PWM is only good for dimming where you want the spectrum to stay exactly the same at all dimming levels. In plant growing, the exact spectrum is not that important. The spectrum at lower power may even be better, idk. Haven't seen graphs of both yet.

About the angle aluminum, I guess whoever has the best price locally. Pretty common item and probably not worth the price to ship.

Also angle aluminum is at every lowes and home depot nationwide. Also any hardware store Internationally I'm sure would have it.

 

[BobCajun]

They cut out the dimmer cause it was too costly.

What the hell? Since when are potentiometers costly? Aren't they $3.49?

 

[Airwalker16]

What the hell? Since when are potentiometers costly? Aren't they $3.49?

Read through the thread growmau5 posts about it

 

[BobCajun]

Sure, but photons of right Spectrum. With CRI70 you get a ton of blue and green photons, but less less red. So why not use only Blue Leds? There you get most photon out.

This is actually an interesting point. The COB phosphor covering is yellow. It's not red or anything close. It makes white by mixing blue and yellow. We all know that yellow is one of the worst bands for plants. So the question is; does the yellow phosphor really make it better than just a pure blue COB and a pure red one for the red? Is a white COB even putting out actual red light or is it an illusion? How could real red be produced from blue and yellow? Page about it. It seems to be real red, since plants grow normally, but how can it really be if all that went into it is blue and yellow? Can wavelengths be changed by simply mixing? Wouldn't you need something that's actually red involved?

Read through the thread growmau5 posts about it

Couldn't find any posts about it. I'm sure people could find potentiometers locally though. For those who only want to dim to 50 or 60% the non-B version of the drivers have internal pots for voltage and current. They won't dim current farther than that though, for some reason. The voltage pot only has very narrow adjustability btw.

 

[welight]

This is actually an interesting point. The COB phosphor covering is yellow. It's not red or anything close. It makes white by mixing blue and yellow. We all know that yellow is one of the worst bands for plants. So the question is; does the yellow phosphor really make it better than just a pure blue COB and a pure red one for the red? Is a white COB even putting out actual red light or is it an illusion? How could real red be produced from blue and yellow? Page about it. It seems to be real red, since plants grow normally, but how can it really be if all that went into it is blue and yellow? Can wavelengths be changed by simply mixing? Wouldn't you need something that's actually red involved?

Couldn't find any posts about it. I'm sure people could find potentiometers locally though. For those who only want to dim to 50 or 60% the non-B version of the drivers have internal pots for voltage and current. They won't dim current farther than that though, for some reason. The voltage pot only has very narrow adjustability btw.

Just to clarify, we were not offering a POT we were offering a 0-10V wall plate dimmer, but at over $10 I was getting no love on it
Cheers
Mark

 

[welight]

Hi Mark,
I like the black anodized version of the heatsink. Would this heatsink be enough to cool [email protected] passively or with a fan blowing across the top of them? I hope to run between 1400ma <--> 1750ma from the driver.

While i was waiting on a reply from you, I did some reading through other threads and came to the conclusion that the clear anodized version will be ready for shipping by the end of April and the black anodized version wont ship until the start/middle of May. The back-orders will go out first in a FIFO (First In First Out) process and any new orders will ship sometime after that. I am looking to have my light built, tested and operational at the latest 3 weeks. Any delay on your side (processing orders, shipping) for whatever reason will create a longer period than 3 weeks i will/would have to wait patiently until receiving my order. So in conclusion I ask you, when will the black anodized version of the MauIV kits be really shipping out to customers after they place their order with Cutter?

Have a nice day

Your correct, blacks will be early May, all our thermal testing was done on the clears, so they perform very well, but if black is your preference, it will be May. I have 1000 pcs shipping so will have plenty of stock. The heatsink has been tested at 50 watts, my advice if you want to jump to 1750 would be add the fan
Cheers
Mark

 

[Pulpit_]

About the angle aluminum, I guess whoever has the best price locally. Pretty common item and probably not worth the price to ship.[/QUOTE]

Aluminum is crazy expensive at Lowes/Home Depot. Aluminum extrusions should only be $3-4.00 lb for small qty. For large qty it’s 1.5-2.00 $/lb. Google metal distributors in your area, Metal Supermarkets etc. Aluminum has a density of .1, so thickness x width x length x .1 = weight. ¼” x 2” x 12” flat bar weighs .6 lbs/ft. If its angle say 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 1/8 it’s basically the same weight as a 1/8” x 2 7/8” flat bar (1 ½” + 1 ½” = 3 less the thickness 1/8”).


If you want a 90 deg square corner on the inside of your profile (angles) it’s called architectural type, typically 6063-t5. Structural has a radius fillet (for strength) and is typically 6061-t6 but you won’t be able to fit against anything due to the inside rounded corner. I was at home depot today, they had a 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 1/8” angle x 36”. I think the price was around 45.00 cdn = 35.00 US Funds and it only weighs 1.25 lbs …… what rip off. I mentioned in a previous post to buy utility grade( any 3000 or 5000 series aluminum) if you’re buying sheet or plate up to ¼” thick, it’s half the price of 6061.


The Metal Guru.