Hydroguard help

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I've had my temps running 68-72 and was using hydrogen peroxide. But once I increased the watts to 1000 the temps started getting up to 77 and that's when I added hydro guard the other day. I'll post pictures of the roots in a few weeks
If you do a search I documented a bit of my battle with the rot and was successful. The cuttings were taken off the plants that almost died. The biggest is now 6' tall. Once you chill the water you'll see that it's something all flooded root zone systems would benefit from.
 
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Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Then don't, that is your problem. Quit asking us for help then as you clearly don't know what you are doing.
Again you seem agitated and who's asking for help? I solved my issue by lowering temps. And isn't that what this place is for is asking for help? Again why so agitated, mom ground you?
 

twistedwords

Well-Known Member
Again you seem agitated and who's asking for help? I solved my issue by lowering temps. And isn't that what this place is for is asking for help? Again why so agitated, mom ground you?
Is this your type of behavior online is to resort to name calling, trying to put words into my mouth and acting like a child? Sure seems like it.

No one is agitated, but you!
 

AKGrowAreo

Well-Known Member
If you do a search I documented a bit of my battle with the rot and was successful. The cuttings were taken off the plants that almost died. The biggest is now 6' tall. Once you chill the water you'll see that it's something all flooded root zone systems would benefit from.
@Budley Doright you are correct my friend. IDK anyone who has run 80 degree res temps with out root rot issues, but maybe I am just talking to the wrong people. No need for anyone to get upset about it though. Better safe than sorry, right?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Your temps are fine, you only have to be concerned if they get to 80+ in DWC. All other hydro is much more flexible. As far as when you can use your hydroguard? Well you would have to calculate how much peroxide you put in the water first and then you would need to know the strength you used and then your friend google will be able to find from chemistry sites how fast peroxide will dissipate in the water. Then you will have your answer.
"You all do know that any temperature about 68 in the root zone with DWC stunts the growth on your plants right? There is no reason why you should even be doing DWC if you cannotkeep the temperatures low as that is the whole point to have maximumoxygen to the roots and the only way to achieve that is temperature at 68degrees F. You shouldn't be usingDWC for high temps."
So I'm confused??? Please explain your change of heart? Did you actually find some information that would make you change your mind from less than a year ago? Please, if there is info out there that you have discovered let me know, I'm curious.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Can you show me and everyone here where you got this info from? The I will show you how you are wrong. Please post to me a botany link that shows you are correct in regards to hydroponics and not some stoners post.
You're wrong. Dwc is actually the worst to have high water Temps. Unless you're talking about room temperature, then water temperature is best under 70 degrees to avoid pythium and anaerobic bacteria growing. Lower temperature in the water also adds more dissolved o2. There are plenty of horticulture studies quoting this, I thought it was common knowledge for hydroponics. I bet if you ran 80 degree water Temps for one week, your plants would be screwed. Do you grow hydroponically by any chance?
 

twistedwords

Well-Known Member
You're wrong. Dwc is actually the worst to have high water Temps. Unless you're talking about room temperature, then water temperature is best under 70 degrees to avoid pythium and anaerobic bacteria growing. Lower temperature in the water also adds more dissolved o2. There are plenty of horticulture studies quoting this, I thought it was common knowledge for hydroponics. I bet if you ran 80 degree water Temps for one week, your plants would be screwed. Do you grow hydroponically by any chance?

Ok smarty show me where under 70 degrees guarantees you no Pythium. Then go and find me where DO is at each temperature. I already know each level, so go and find it.

So run along and show me, Oh been doing this for 35 years.

I will await your response....just to see how smart you are....
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Ok smarty show me where under 70 degrees guarantees you no Pythium. Then go and find me where DO is at each temperature. I already know each level, so go and find it.

So run along and show me, Oh been doing this for 35 years.

I will await your response....just to see how smart you are....
I was reading your posts to the others in this thread, and you were upset that they sounded "agitated", yet you seem agitated.
 

twistedwords

Well-Known Member
I was reading your posts to the others in this thread, and you were upset that they sounded "agitated", yet you seem agitated.

So you are a troll, I get it and RIU is known for trolling. Lastly, stop with the agitated Bullshit, you don't know me, but I know idiots like you who come along with your diatribe and insults. You didn't like it back now did you? Funny now isn't it.

So you couldn't come up with the task sent to you. You want to know why? Because your knowledge in this area is from here on a forum and only here.

So again, find me where I asked you about DO? I will make it easier for you? You claim that DO under 70 degrees is universal correct? This is your position right? Would you like to continue debating this about DWC?

So since you are stuck on DO. Explain to me how DO happens in the water. Can you?
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Here. Have fun. Do your own research though instead of being a bully. If you haven't figured it out in 35 years, I don't know what to tell you man.
Screenshot_2016-02-29-18-32-38.png
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
You're an ass. I'm not trolling at all. You are. You have a lot to say but have shown no help or any information about what you are claiming. I help people here. You're going on my block list though as I don't have time for you. Later.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Ok smarty show me where under 70 degrees guarantees you no Pythium. Then go and find me where DO is at each temperature. I already know each level, so go and find it.

So run along and show me, Oh been doing this for 35 years.

I will await your response....just to see how smart you are....
No one said anything about guarantee's. You, being in this for 35 years (which means shit btw) should know there are no guarantees. But running 80 in DWC is just not right, and by your post from a while back you know this. Why you being such a dick? I have read some of your threads and it's spot on, other stuff not so much, more old cranky guy rant than advice. I showed you proof with pictures of the results of lowering Res temps, where's the proof that running 80 is a good thing. You were the one that stated that and should be the one able to back it up. Run along now, I'll be here when you return with your botanical proof lol.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
For everyone else that cares about the studies of root rot in hydroponics and the results. Here is some info.

An understanding of root rot epidemics is fundamental to the development and refinement of methods and practices to manage the disease in hydroponic crops, but remains fragmentary. While root rot is almost universal in commercial hydroponic systems, and in many instances becomes sufficiently severe to cause serious crop losses, it is also true that in many other instances progress and spread of the disease is comparatively slow and losses are perceived as minor. From the literature, and an abundance of anecdotal evidence from greenhouse growers and crop advisory personnel, it is clear that a myriad of variables significantly influence Pythiumspecies and root rot development in hydroponic systems. Important variables range from subtleties such as calcium in the root zone, which at millimolar levels strongly influence adhesion of zoospores to roots (33), to elevated temperature, which can bring about abrupt and explosive increases in root necrosis in large portions of crops (4, 28, 39, 54, 61, 83, 107). This portion of the present article will now focus on effects of factors associated with the host, the pathogen, the environment of the nutrient solution and plant canopy, and human interferences on disease severity and pathogen ecology. Excellent perspectives of the general principles of epidemiology are given in Zadoks & Schein (119) and Bergamin Filho & Amorim (7). For a critical review of the epidemiology of diseases caused by Pythium spp. in plants grown in soil, attention is drawn to Martin & Loper (61).

Recent studies in our laboratory have demonstrated for the first time that environmental stress factors can increase the susceptibility of hydroponically-grown plants to Pythium root rot. The studies were conducted using pepper plants in single-plant hydroponic units with aerated nutrient solution. When temperature of the nutrient solution was raised to 28ºC or 34ºC for a few hours or days and subsequently lowered to 22-24ºC prior to inoculation of the root systems with P. aphanidermatum, root browning progressed earlier and more rapidly than in control plants maintained at 22-24ºC before inoculation (C.R. Sopher & J.C. Sutton, unpublished). Similarly, when plants were kept in nutrient solution (pH 5.8) amended with certain simple phenolic compounds for 48 h and then placed in unamended solution for 24 h before inoculation with P. aphanidermatum, disease severity increased more rapidly than in untreated controls (103). This finding suggested that phenolics escaping from diseased roots might predispose downstream healthy plants to attack by Pythium. Collectively, the studies demonstrated that high temperature and phenolic compounds predisposed the plants to root rot. By definition, predisposition refers to increased susceptibility of plants to disease brought about by environmental factors acting prior to infection by the pathogen (39). It is likely that other environmental stressors or stress conditions, such as low intensity light and low concentration of dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution also predispose plants to Pythium root rot. Chérif et al. (14) found that Pythium F colonized roots of hydroponically-grown tomatoes more extensively when concentration of dissolved oxygen was moderate (5.8-7.0%) or low (0.8-1.5%), than at high levels (11-14%), however, it was not determined whether the influence of reduced oxygen was through increasing susceptibility of the host, or through effects on the pathogen or the host-pathogen interaction.


The info is abundant out there. You just have to know how to read and have the drive to want to know why and how things operate. :peace:
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
And a simple dissolved o2 relation to water temperature chart before I go. I think that pretty much sums things up. How's that for a stoner?

Screenshot_2016-02-29-18-52-10-1.png
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
And yup I'm trolling you, you called me dumb lol
He's probably so "agitated" from his wild claims he's making since he can't show one single source. And then probably so much more "agitated" because he just got schooled. I think I taught him more in 2 minutes than he's learned in "35 years" of hydroponic growing. That must really grinds his gears. That's what he gets for being a douch bag, though, and since he called me a troll, well, now he's got it!
 
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