Hydroguard help

I use hydroguard in all my res's, hitting mid 70's res temps in mid summer without an issue, but I run higher air volumes than most, which really helps.

Twistedwords is partially correct, res temps between 68 and 72F are ideal for home growing, it's where the water can hold enough DO support plant growth and be warm enough to not slow down biological process. Under 65F biological processes slow down, but DO greatly increases, over 72F biological process are ramped up but at depleted DO levels and risk of pathogens, res temps between 70-75F would be ideal if DO and patogens can be adequatly controlled. Most home growers don'the have the ability to maintain res temps in this range, and keep DO up and pathogens down, which is why lower/mid 60's is the generally accepted range. It keeps DO up in an environment which isn't conductive to pathogen growth. Get res temps around 72, get enough DO and keep a good bacteria culture going and you will see increased growth.

I had a open HG bottle for close to a year, i never saw any decline in effectiveness. I kept a HG culture going in a 10 gal tote for a few months off one dose. It's a living bacteria, so once you dose, if you keep giving it food it will continue to colonize. I just scooped out a cup or two and added it to my res's every few days, then added back ro, for food I'd throw in some old roots or leaves, any dead plant material. When the bottle I have gets low I'll start another culture, hopefully won't have to buy it again after that.

I've been successfully running 73-77* res tempatures with an average of 75* F with hydroguard. At each resivor change, 12 to 24 hours before I do it, I add 2 oz of H2O2 per 6 gallons of water and let it run through the system. When I empty the res I add the new RO water and 15 ml of hydroguard per 5-6 gallons and have been topping off with RO water every 2-3 days. Roots looks great, flowering is doing great and I have been able to run 75-80* room temps

Hydroguard is certainly a life saver I run my res at 68-73 with benniez and enzymes, I wouldn't try it running sterile, but benniez seem to like the warmer water and plants do grow a bit faster I think because the root growth is faster. I wouldn't attempt running over 65f water Temps with out a colonized reservoir though, instant fail

AlphaPhase said:

Still waiting for you to prove the University studies wrong, I figured 28 hours is enough to gather the info. But maybe you're with the UB or HB crew, seems when they talk and post wrong information for years and ask for science, then are presented with the science that goes against their claims they dissappear pretty quickly, too. I guess it's a defense mechanism that's triggered when you've been calling people dumb and trolls for so long, then reality hits and you're proved wrong about what you've been telling people for years you just gotta run from it.

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You have no univeristy studies just a bunch of talk...are you looking for a crew to back you up like a kid? so where are your studies?

NVGrower said:

I've been successfully running 73-77* res tempatures with an average of 75* F with hydroguard. At each resivor change, 12 to 24 hours before I do it, I add 2 oz of H2O2 per 6 gallons of water and let it run through the system. When I empty the res I add the new RO water and 15 ml of hydroguard per 5-6 gallons and have been topping off with RO water every 2-3 days. Roots looks great, flowering is doing great and I have been able to run 75-80* room temps

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Many do run at these temps or even higher. I have seen people run in the 80's and 90's just fine.

You can use Pondzyme to do all of this and save yourself money instead of this high priced Hydroguard from Botanicaire, which is nothing more than a offshoot version of Pondzyme for twice the price and lasts you only 10% of the time Pondzyme will, but you will see Botanicaire sales reps here pushing it, which is what this thread is all about.

twistedwords said:

You have no univeristy studies just a bunch of talk...are you looking for a crew to back you up like a kid? so where are your studies?

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Da fuq? Can you read what I posted? Is purdue state University not good enough? Do you want Harvard study? God you're and idiot

twistedwords said:

Many do run at these temps or even higher. I have seen people run in the 80's and 90's just fine.

You can use Pondzyme to do all of this and save yourself money instead of this high priced Hydroguard from Botanicaire, which is nothing more than a offshoot version of Pondzyme for twice the price and lasts you only 10% of the time Pondzyme will, but you will see Botanicaire sales reps here pushing it, which is what this thread is all about.

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You're silly
Hydroguard works great with pondzyme.

For the love of God, 90f water Temps. That's, what's the easiest way to say this, straight up retarded. Go read some nasa hydroponic studies and come back when you're on the same side of the fence as everyone else.

AlphaPhase said:

Da fuq? Can you read what I posted? Is purdue state University not good enough? Do you want Harvard study? God you're and idiot

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Ok Einstein since all you have is attacks..

Is DO universal like I have been asking you over and over again. Since you know more than everyone else on the planet. BTW you r chart is wrong you posted.

AlphaPhase said:

You're silly View attachment 3621816
Hydroguard works great with pondzyme.

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Ok since you you are so stuck on this Hydroguard, time to blow the lid off of this product from Botanicaire.

So you can go here and learn the what is in Botanicaires Hydroguard is Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens and this particular strain of bacteria is just a larger one that is more abundant than what is in the product PondZyme Bacillus Subtillis , but both do the same thing. Now why would you spend so much money off of Botanicaire when you can just go and buy this product Ultra Clear Super Strength treatment made for ponds that has the following for only 18 dollars and lasts for 18,000 gallons here http://www.pondbiz.com/page_1215_31/ultraclear-sst-super-strength-treatment

Ingredients in Ultraclear SST

• Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Degrades starches and carbohydrates
• Bacillus subtilis. Degrades starches, proteins, and fats
• Bacillus licheniformis. Converts nitrate to nitrogen gas
• Cellulomonas biazotea. Digests cellulose

http://ultraclear.com/ucsst.html

The pond people know more than the hydroponic stores and companies as they have been doing this for decades..

If you need anymore info please let me know?

Have a nice day!

What dosage to use pondzyme and how frequent. The last time I used it I noticed a slight brown excrement on the roots.

twistedwords said:

Ok since you you are so stuck on this Hydroguard, time to blow the lid off of this product from Botanicaire.

So you can go here and learn the what is in Botanicaires Hydroguard is Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens and this particular strain of bacteria is just a larger one that is more abundant than what is in the product PondZyme Bacillus Subtillis , but both do the same thing. Now why would you spend so much money off of Botanicaire when you can just go and buy this product Ultra Clear Super Strength treatment made for ponds that has the following for only 18 dollars and lasts for 18,000 gallons here http://www.pondbiz.com/page_1215_31/ultraclear-sst-super-strength-treatment

Ingredients in Ultraclear SST

• Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. Degrades starches and carbohydrates
• Bacillus subtilis. Degrades starches, proteins, and fats
• Bacillus licheniformis. Converts nitrate to nitrogen gas
• Cellulomonas biazotea. Digests cellulose

http://ultraclear.com/ucsst.html

The pond people know more than the hydroponic stores and companies as they have been doing this for decades..

If you need anymore info please let me know?

Have a nice day!

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Now this might be a gem. I'll look into it, but what the quick DD I did on the product, it says it consumes nutrients and also converts stuff to a gas. Is this bad for hydroponic growing? I know the hydroguard doesn't off gas (or whatever it's called) since that was a feature listed for hydroguard. I also am not sure in hydroguard consumes nutrients, I'd imagine it does to feed the bacteria but I don't know much about this. Thoughts? See now we're getting along. I'm willing to switch to the ultra clear SST if it is the same, or will provide the same effects as hydroguard, because hydroguard is expensive and I use a lot of it. Also I love the pond zyme, but I have had root issues while using both products, which sucks. That's why I recommend most people to keep the res at 68-70 but I like to run mine higher, 77 in the summer does great if I don't run into a root zone issue. I also can use less nutrients at higher water Temps, which is a plus. I've run as cold as 58 with no ill effects but it did stunt smaller plants, while the larger plants were OK, I wouldn't recommend that cold to anyone though. Roots and plants grow much faster at 75-80 degrees imo, as seen in an ez cloner rooting clones, higher Temps faster rooting. But it makes me really nervous running that high constantly, especially using tap water (that shit can harbor pythium, well pythium is just everywhere waiting to hit). Pythium just does not like the oxygen in colder water, just you can still get pythium under 70 degrees, just not as likely. I'm not sure if the DO chart is perfectly accurate, it was just a ball park I was looking for to show the levels dropping, the graph I like has the little dots that show a better range but I couldn't find it.

gand3r said:

What dosage to use pondzyme and how frequent. The last time I used it I noticed a slight brown excrement on the roots.

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That's the Barly I believe, unless you were seeing something else (if the roots were white it was Barly). I use 1 tsp for 50 gallons, them 1/2 tsp 2x a week. Not sure if this is the perfect application rate, its what I calculated from the directions on the label though, which is a pain because it's for large amounts of water

AlphaPhase said:

Now this might be a gem. I'll look into it, but what the quick DD I did on the product, it says it consumes nutrients and also converts stuff to a gas. Is this bad for hydroponic growing? I know the hydroguard doesn't off gas (or whatever it's called) since that was a feature listed for hydroguard. I also am not sure in hydroguard consumes nutrients, I'd imagine it does to feed the bacteria but I don't know much about this. Thoughts? See now we're getting along. I'm willing to switch to the ultra clear SST if it is the same, or will provide the same effects as hydroguard, because hydroguard is expensive and I use a lot of it. Also I love the pond zyme, but I have had root issues while using both products, which sucks. That's why I recommend most people to keep the res at 68-70 but I like to run mine higher, 77 in the summer does great if I don't run into a root zone issue. I also can use less nutrients at higher water Temps, which is a plus. I've run as cold as 58 with no ill effects but it did stunt smaller plants, while the larger plants were OK, I wouldn't recommend that cold to anyone though. Roots and plants grow much faster at 75-80 degrees imo, as seen in an ez cloner rooting clones, higher Temps faster rooting. But it makes me really nervous running that high constantly, especially using tap water (that shit can harbor pythium, well pythium is just everywhere waiting to hit). Pythium just does not like the oxygen in colder water, just you can still get pythium under 70 degrees, just not as likely. I'm not sure if the DO chart is perfectly accurate, it was just a ball park I was looking for to show the levels dropping, the graph I like has the little dots that show a better range but I couldn't find it.

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here is a chart for you that will show based upon your elevation as that is key. It changes and different per location.

If you are looking for an organic version of Bacillus amyloliquefaciens then use this but not cheap.


DOUBLE NICKEL 55 WDG BIOFUNGICIDE

Lastly for straight Bacillus amyloliquefaciens then use this product: roughly .5 pint per 100 gallons

http://www.forestrydistributing.com/en/triathlon-ba-biological-fungicide-organic
http://www.ohp.com/PIB/PDF/triathlon_ba_503_pib.pdf

This should solve any problems you may have for far cheaper than the hydro store. Good luck hope this helps everyone

AlphaPhase said:

He's probably so "agitated" from his wild claims he's making since he can't show one single source. And then probably so much more "agitated" because he just got schooled. I think I taught him more in 2 minutes than he's learned in "35 years" of hydroponic growing. That must really grinds his gears. That's what he gets for being a douche bag, though, and since he called me a troll, well, now he's got it!

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alright got a q for u, I have a "Auto Pot" system. It has reservoirs that hold as much as 40g or more. They are intended to use with premixed nutes in the res and then it slowly seeps into the "autopot" through the bottom of the pot. I specifically asked the company if it would be okay for the res to be in 90F ambient temps. How does this work? I suppose being the plants are in some kind of soilless medium that

I was using microbe lift pl when it struck. I was running a non flooded root zone, with no standing water. My sprayers were timed to run 15 on, 15 off, I have 16 spray heads in each tray. And a root zone at 70-75. So can someone please explain why I got hit, seems I had lots of O2 in the root zone, they were never under water and basically the same thing as pondzyme

@twistedwords that's the proper chart, the one I was thinking of wasn't nearly as organized and easy to read, props

And thank you for the links to the bennies, I'll look into them and pick some up, anything cheaper than HG that does the same I'm all for. I use a decent microbial pond cleaner for algae that works great, called api microbial algae clean, I recommend that for green algae that can get on trays. Sometimes it clears it up 100% but sometimes algae can still grow on the trays but it keeps it at bay nicely.

So with these products, it won't affect the plants at all and no bad effects compared to the HG? I'll buy it soon if it's pretty much the same stuff and does the same job. Thanks again.

green217 said:

alright got a q for u, I have a "Auto Pot" system. It has reservoirs that hold as much as 40g or more. They are intended to use with premixed nutes in the res and then it slowly seeps into the "autopot" through the bottom of the pot. I specifically asked the company if it would be okay for the res to be in 90F ambient temps. How does this work? I suppose being the plants are in some kind of soilless medium that

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I'm not sure what an autopot is or how it works, is it like an ebb and grow system? Or is it like a drip or drain to waste system? 90 degrees is high ambient Temps, but the water won't nearly be that high as long as your in flower with the lights on 12/12, that shouldn't be a problem, in veg running lights 24/7, the 90 degree constant temp would raise your water to the same temp eventually, which I definitely wouldn't recommend. But, if its a drain to waste system, there's a lot more room for water Temps than on a Dwc or ebb flow system. I'd you're using the water fast and it's drain to waste, I wouldn't think it would matter too much, it's when organic matter + high Temps in res + low oxygen in the water things can go south fast. If roots are sitting in high temp water, that's the worst, flood and drain even has some give with Temps, but I still recommend under 70 to be safe. If drain to waste, I'd say you could go to 90 degree water Temps, not optimal, but it would most likely be OK. Just always have a beneficial bacteria to help keep things away. I'm not saying you can't run 90 degree water, if EVERYTHING is properly taken care of, but the plants wouldn't grow as well as 77 degree, but it can be done. But if you don't have your water properly treated you perfectly, you will get root zone issues.

Budley Doright said:

I was using microbe lift pl when it struck. I was running a non flooded root zone, with no standing water. My sprayers were timed to run 15 on, 15 off, I have 16 spray heads in each tray. And a root zone at 70-75. So can someone please explain why I got hit, seems I had lots of O2 in the root zone, they were never under water and basically the same thing as pondzyme

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It happens, it can be in your water supply, I'd it takes hold in the system it's a pain to get rid of, higher water Temps, usually over 70, make it take hold much faster. I'm guessing there were more bad bacteria than good bacteria at the time you were adding the pond zyme and just weren't adding enough for control. Also, weaker plants are Easy victims, do you recall if the plants were really healthy at the time or were there any issues?