PH WTF!!

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I feed them 3ml grow
2.5 ml bloom
2ml topmax all per litre plus cal mag. All per litre twice a week roughly. I thought that was plenty N at this stage? I could be wrong. Usually I am!
What feed brand?

Feeding should be every other watering...
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
Im just starting week 5 of 12/12 so should I stop adding the veg nutes now and just bloom? The chart says add them right till end of grow. I'm not sure. Also some say flush with ph water, some say don't? I'm a bit confused as I'm a bit of a noob. Will I just run ph 6.5 water through with some runoff & disregard the runoff ph? I'll post a pic of my plants tonight. Maybe change soil for next grow? Just really ain't sure.
I don't use organics because once it's in the soil there is no removing it. So flushing is pointless.
 

Rastaman85

Active Member
What feed brand?

Feeding should be every other watering...
Biobizz. I usually feed, feed, water? Oops too much?? Just alternate now?

I don't use organics because once it's in the soil there is no removing it. So flushing is pointless.
Good point dude. I Thot biobizz nutes were just synthetic so to speak as opposed to being organic? My bad. Good learning curve tbh. Next grow just gonna use the soil perlite little bit dolomite lime, mix well, feed everything with ph 6.5 & forget runoff. Got tds meter but don't think calibrated correctly. Need sort it out aswell. Disappointed in myself abit coz Thot my set up was sweet! Need up my game! Last 2 auto grows pulled 9oz each off a 250hps! Just got new rhino 6" fan & filter it's bomb! Pic from few mins ago:
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg Second pic is the LA cheese which is the worst looking. 3rd pick is one of the leaves.
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
Also I just got unsulphered blackstrap molasses. Should I use this every time I feed? Stuff stinks!
The best thing I think you could do is slow down. Think things through and start of with the basics. Observer your results and any short comings make notes and take pictures. Then research and correct for the next grow. Make any changes slowly and thoughtfully. Even when it comes to buying supplies. The best example I can give is my exhaust fan. I bought the right size to refresh the air about every 3 minutes. The calculations said I needed a 4 inch fan. So that's what I bought. Perfect right how can math be wrong? I set my shit up put in my plants I had already under T5. Then I watched the temperature skyrocket. Since my fan was maxed out. My choices were bigger fan or AC. Since it was cool outside I chose fan. So in less than 2 weeks I bought a 4 and a 6 inch fan. Didn't save a penny wasted time and caused confusion. Had I thought about the whole room rather than each piece separately it wouldn't have happened. Now the good. I still use the 4 inch fan today. But all its good for is my drying tent. Even changes in the room should be done slowly. This is so if and WHEN things happen you didn't expect it's easier to locate the problem.

If you change multiple things that you do to your nutes all at once and start a new grow. If the plan comes off the rails and you go from having healthy plants to sick plants. How easy will it be to narrow it down. Like I've said before. This really isn't rocket science. Over thinking it is what happens many times to newbies.

I saw a post last night. Some dude new to growing his seedlings are 5 days above ground and this guy thinks he's got some rare rust fungus. I laughed. I asked him how dirty could he be? He just set up this room and suddenly in 5 days a rare pest makes it to his room and doing damage. WTF?!

The seedlings were under 600w MH 12 inches away and he misted it lights on?! DUH
 
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GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
Also I just got unsulphered blackstrap molasses. Should I use this every time I feed? Stuff stinks!
I don't use anything other than dyna gro products. Grow, bloom, mag pro and protekt. I've found mag pro doesn't change my results. So I really don't use. I am this run just because I have 3 dam gallons of. But for the most part all I use is the other 3. I use protekt the whole grow. I use grow alone from cuttings all the way until my plants have stopped stretching and the beginning of actual buds had just begun to form. General terms roughly 2 weeks after 12/12 but can be longer depending on the strain. After the flowers have started forming I lower the amount of grow and start adding bloom. At the same time this is the point when the PPM of my solution also slowly starts rising. So I start my solution the same as in veg (300) but I only add enough grow to read 200 PPM and then add the bloom to bring it up to 400. So it is 50/50 but at the same time it's not half as much grow from the last feeding. Roughly I follow this until end of week 4. Starting week 5 I repeat stop the grow around 150 and use bloom to bring it up to 450. Week six grow until 75 PPM and bloom until 500 PPM. Weeks 7 on no more grow and all 500 PPM is bloom. (My strains generally are about 10-11 weekers so if I see yellowing before I should I can alway mix in a little foil age pro. It's high N grow so it only takes a little.)Week 8 I slowly start dropping the total ppm. My plants need watering about every day. As the end nears they will noticeable be drying out slower. At this point my nutes are down to about 250 PPM. At the most the last 2 watering will be pure RO water. In veg my PPM is NEVER over 300. In flower my PPM is NEVER more than 500. It's hard to describe what and that's just rough. As always I'm paying attention and can adjust that to what I see from my plants.
[ all my nute mixed start with protekt. It accounts for the first 35 PPM for ever mix mentioned above. So it must be subtracted to figure out the amount of the base nutes added after and I use RO water so I start out at ZERO PPM]. When I say there's nothing that is in my medium that I don't put there I mean nothing. Not from the water to the medium.

So as far as Epsom salts molasses ketchup or mustard. I don't get why people do what they do most of the time. I saw a post last night about PHing the nutes with baking soda?! Like I said before pot is just another plant. It just needs what it needs. Maybe baking soda can be found at any store. But I'll never understand not just using regular ole growing products over kitchen supplies.
 
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GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
Here some pictures no kitchen supplies needed. Just light fresh air and 3 bottles on DG products. image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
This was at day 35 they're super silver haze and La Niña. This is the second run of these. I'm still selecting. They both 10-11 weekers and each plant is different. This grow is a little wild because at this point selection is my most import goal. Having 15 LN and 12 SSH has to get narrowed down.
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
I hate to sound like I'm pushing a product because I'm not but look at your biobizz webpage and compare it to these. And tell me what you think.
This is the grow product I use. Its a COMPLETE nutrient source.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/795.htm

Look at the GUARANTEED analysis. Then notice all the micro nutrients.

This is the bloom product and again a complete source

http://www.dyna-gro.com/3126.htm

Look at the GUARANTEED analysis. Then notice all the micro nutrients.

This is the protekt I use with everything. Silicon to increase plant strength. I've never questioned it just used it.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/003.htm


This is the mag pro. It's a supplement for those who don't believe everything is in the COMPLETE base nutrient mix. And the blossom booster gimmick. I've used it I've not used it. Early on I thought I needed it. Now I don't. But I already bought 3 gallons of it. So I'll probably be using it because there's also been no bad signs.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/2154.htm

Just pay attention to and compare the guaranteed analysis of MEASURABLE elements needed by a plant. After you've taken all that into account. Look at the price point.

Grow 1 gallon 39 bucks.
Bloom 1 gallon 47 bucks
Protect 36 bucks
Mag pro 1 gallon 56 bucks

That's just from a quick google search. The last one I don't think you need and I pay a little less because I'm always hunting the bargain because I know I'm not switching. I will say I've never compared prices or looked to buy any other brand. So I don't know what you'll find or paid. But I do see plenty of people complaining about how much they pay. And I think I'm getting a bargain and a gallon goes a long way. It's concentrated so it also lasts longer.
 

Rastaman85

Active Member
M
I hate to sound like I'm pushing a product because I'm not but look at your biobizz webpage and compare it to these. And tell me what you think.
This is the grow product I use. Its a COMPLETE nutrient source.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/795.htm

Look at the GUARANTEED analysis. Then notice all the micro nutrients.

This is the bloom product and again a complete source

http://www.dyna-gro.com/3126.htm

Look at the GUARANTEED analysis. Then notice all the micro nutrients.

This is the protekt I use with everything. Silicon to increase plant strength. I've never questioned it just used it.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/003.htm


This is the mag pro. It's a supplement for those who don't believe everything is in the COMPLETE base nutrient mix. And the blossom booster gimmick. I've used it I've not used it. Early on I thought I needed it. Now I don't. But I already bought 3 gallons of it. So I'll probably be using it because there's also been no bad signs.

http://www.dyna-gro.com/2154.htm

Just pay attention to and compare the guaranteed analysis of MEASURABLE elements needed by a plant. After you've taken all that into account. Look at the price point.

Grow 1 gallon 39 bucks.
Bloom 1 gallon 47 bucks
Protect 36 bucks
Mag pro 1 gallon 56 bucks

That's just from a quick google search. The last one I don't think you need and I pay a little less because I'm always hunting the bargain because I know I'm not switching. I will say I've never compared prices or looked to buy any other brand. So I don't know what you'll find or paid. But I do see plenty of people complaining about how much they pay. And I think I'm getting a bargain and a gallon goes a long way. It's concentrated so it also lasts longer.
Might try dyna grow need see where get in uk. Are smaller sizes available. I have mag so just get grow bloom & protect?
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Well I stand corrected then.....oops! So you can accurately measure the EC of organic nutrients with a meter then? I've just always thought/read it doesn't work.
"EC and Organic Fertilizers

EC is a great management tool for hydroponics, but it can be misleading when you’re using organic fertilizers because organic molecules generally don’t conduct electricity. Plants can’t take up large, uncharged organic molecules; they must first be digested by micro-organisms in the soil into tiny ions that plants absorb through the roots in a process called mineralization. Micro-organisms such as mycorrhizal fungi and plant-growth-promoting rhizobacteria produce organic acids and enzymes that release the mineral ions from soil and organic matter into a form that the roots can absorb. In soil systems, organic fertilizers feed the micro-organisms, and the micro-organisms feed the plants. Only the ions that are ready for plant use will be measured with a meter."

Basically you cannot then predict what the actual working EC inside the medium will be because of the above. But it will give you a baseline in my experience.They will NOT read as high as regular salts when and this is where some screw up.

I like organics because you don't have to screw with the EC/PPM so much.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
"EC and Organic Fertilizers

EC is a great management tool for hydroponics, but it can be misleading when you’re using organic fertilizers because organic molecules generally don’t conduct electricity. Plants can’t take up large, uncharged organic molecules; they must first be digested by micro-organisms in the soil into tiny ions that plants absorb through the roots in a process called mineralization. Micro-organisms such as mycorrhizal fungi and plant-growth-promoting rhizobacteria produce organic acids and enzymes that release the mineral ions from soil and organic matter into a form that the roots can absorb. In soil systems, organic fertilizers feed the micro-organisms, and the micro-organisms feed the plants. Only the ions that are ready for plant use will be measured with a meter."

Basically you cannot then predict what the actual working EC inside the medium will be because of the above. But it will give you a baseline in my experience.They will NOT read as high as regular salts when and this is where some screw up.

I like organics because you don't have to screw with the EC/PPM so much.
Ok.....so I was right? Seems to me that you just said what I said but just a longer version, I'm so confused lol. Doesn't matter anywho, I run salts in hydro and poop in soil so I measure hydro and the soil does its own thing :).
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I don't use organics because once it's in the soil there is no removing it. So flushing is pointless.
#1: Then don't overfeed! Sort of a dumb thing to say about organics..

#2: Flushing - actually "leeching" can create pH problems of it's own. Simply water it out with straight pH'ed water 5-7days. Maybe some Ca/Mg and/or Kelp extract. So your right on that one - "Flushing IS pointless"!!

#3: Learn to build your own soils and all you do is water and walk away! No pHing, no ppms, no EC! NO chemical problems!

OP, I'm not a Bio Bizz fan......I see so many problems people have with it.....It has the normal early yellowing in bloom from early and over use of P.

Yours looks underfeed.....Synthetic feed rates are feed, water, feed, water, etc, etc. Take another look at how SSH feeds! He has his feed dialed in.......Your going to have to figure yours out for yourself with that Biobizz.......
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
"So as far as Epsom salts molasses ketchup or mustard."

Not sure about the ketchup and mustard but Epsom salts have helped me out a few times. The last few grows I have not needed it but on occasion my plants will show a mag def. and a few foiler feeds will clear it up. This is hydro btw, soil grows have never needed it. I started using an amino product last few grows and it seems my mag and calcium uptake have improved to the point I no longer use cal mag or Epsom. I have no scientific proof this is why just know it's gotten better in my setup so I'm sticking with it. It's cheap enough that it's no biggy if just coincidence
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I don't use anything other than dyna gro products. Grow, bloom, mag pro and protekt. I've found mag pro doesn't change my results. So I really don't use. I am this run just because I have 3 dam gallons of. But for the most part all I use is the other 3. I use protekt the whole grow. I use grow alone from cuttings all the way until my plants have stopped stretching and the beginning of actual buds had just begun to form. General terms roughly 2 weeks after 12/12 but can be longer depending on the strain. After the flowers have started forming I lower the amount of grow and start adding bloom. At the same time this is the point when the PPM of my solution also slowly starts rising. So I start my solution the same as in veg (300) but I only add enough grow to read 200 PPM and then add the bloom to bring it up to 400. So it is 50/50 but at the same time it's not half as much grow from the last feeding. Roughly I follow this until end of week 4. Starting week 5 I repeat stop the grow around 150 and use bloom to bring it up to 450. Week six grow until 75 PPM and bloom until 500 PPM. Weeks 7 on no more grow and all 500 PPM is bloom. (My strains generally are about 10-11 weekers so if I see yellowing before I should I can alway mix in a little foil age pro. It's high N grow so it only takes a little.)Week 8 I slowly start dropping the total ppm. My plants need watering about every day. As the end nears they will noticeable be drying out slower. At this point my nutes are down to about 250 PPM. At the most the last 2 watering will be pure RO water. In veg my PPM is NEVER over 300. In flower my PPM is NEVER more than 500. It's hard to describe what and that's just rough. As always I'm paying attention and can adjust that to what I see from my plants.
[ all my nute mixed start with protekt. It accounts for the first 35 PPM for ever mix mentioned above. So it must be subtracted to figure out the amount of the base nutes added after and I use RO water so I start out at ZERO PPM]. When I say there's nothing that is in my medium that I don't put there I mean nothing. Not from the water to the medium.

So as far as Epsom salts molasses ketchup or mustard. I don't get why people do what they do most of the time. I saw a post last night about PHing the nutes with baking soda?! Like I said before pot is just another plant. It just needs what it needs. Maybe baking soda can be found at any store. But I'll never understand not just using regular ole growing products over kitchen supplies.

YOU have your shit dialed in too! Looks great for DG G&B! Management of your feed rates and you've overcome the high P amounts of DG.......NICE!

Why Baking Soda? Organic growers use it as it's,,,,,organic! It's cheap! Far cheaper then $10 for a quart of down that contains phosphoric acid that actually damages roots!

Epsom is Mg Sulphate. That, when mixed properly with simple sugars, increase trich and terp production - it works. It can also be mixed into a foliar for Mg def and "cure" the problem FAR faster then adding a Mg to your feed and waiting for it to work......The use of Kelp extracts has been found to increase root mass by 67 - 175% over untreated soil (Virginia Polytechnic Institute study) ! Kelp use increases seed germination, Increases resistance to disease and pests too!

The use of molasses by growers will feed the living biome in your soil. This actual "keeping alive" the myco's regulates pH and feeds the plant better. Even with synthetics! Why do you think there are so many root dips and every other source of myco being pushed everywhere you look? Because like I said, they work - even in synthetics! I use it in making my simple Bio teas.

Like I said, YOU have your grow dialed in! I have my organic soils dialed in!
I bet my latest run of my Sour Strawberry Illumination will cream your DG run in yield and overall bud size/bag appeal.......NO INSULT The point being is that you can dial in anything out there! And I didn't like your reason to not like organics.......:roll:

Sigh, now I have to back that up with bud shots - Harvesting for the next cpl of days......I'll post a few bud porn shots - be patient.

:peace:
 

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
#1: Then don't overfeed! Sort of a dumb thing to say about organics..
Hey who. I get it. Please don't use me as an example. What I was referring to is organic soil NOT nutrients. So if some clown or a beginner cruises the forum and finds a soil mixture they think is good BUT never tested and uses it. They may have problems. OBVIOUSLY if it a nutrient mix over feeding would be an issue and can prevented. But if is was a super soil or organic soil mix it's in there until the pot is tossed. And once they've mixed the soil and they over due something they can't remove it from the soil. There also could be a lack something. In these situation just watering with plain water won't help. So it's not a matter of over feeding. I know you're not suggesting that it's a fail proof method nothing is. There's just a lot more to consider and figure out when it comes to super soils or organic soil mixes. It's about the chemical reaction of ingredients. Now if they have a problem they have to contend with how what they add reacts with their soil must be considered before applying. My point was with a pro mix if you need a little more N someone like me can dose it with foliage pro and move on quickly. On the other hand if you're experienced I completely understand why just watering a plant sounds easier. But you must take in to consideration the mixing of the soil well ahead of time. You must have a place to store it until it's ready. Then if you go through that and don't have a good mix it could be hazardous. For a beginner it could be reaching to far to fast. That's all I was saying nothing more so no need for you to be offended or threatened.

I know you understand from reading your posts. You should know I understand as well. This isn't s pissing contest or a dick measuring contest either

FYI when you have to say no insult. You know you crossed a line. I wouldn't waste my time comparing grows with you. Because I have absolutely no complaints and my stuff runs off the shelf. My bud sizes and potency and density aren't lacking one bit.
 
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GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
I'm not concerned with your porn pics. I'm glad you're dialed in and unlike you I'm only trying to help. My concern was helping a guy with a problem. Not squabbling with you. I'd appreciate it from now on if you can help others without involving me or my posts. Especially if you can't take them as they are intended and you instead want to think I'm insulting your methods. The funny part to me is. You say you don't like his nutes. Hmm isn't that what this was supposed to be about.
 
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Rastaman85

Active Member
#1: Then don't overfeed! Sort of a dumb thing to say about organics..

#2: Flushing - actually "leeching" can create pH problems of it's own. Simply water it out with straight pH'ed water 5-7days. Maybe some Ca/Mg and/or Kelp extract. So your right on that one - "Flushing IS pointless"!!

#3: Learn to build your own soils and all you do is water and walk away! No pHing, no ppms, no EC! NO chemical problems!

OP, I'm not a Bio Bizz fan......I see so many problems people have with it.....It has the normal early yellowing in bloom from early and over use of P.

Yours looks underfeed.....Synthetic feed rates are feed, water, feed, water, etc, etc. Take another look at how SSH feeds! He has his feed dialed in.......Your going to have to figure yours out for yourself with that Biobizz.......
I agree it looks underfed but I've been doing feed, feed, water not feed water feed etc. Thot maybe I was feeding too much? I have noticed early yellowing tbh. Just want nice lush green plants. When I topped the LA cheese I kept the top as a clone & it looks healthy not yellow & on the same schedule! My blue cheese and pineapple skunk don't look that bad tbh. Just the 1 topped LAC. Next grow I want dialled in but just got fresh batch biobizz nutes & soil already waiting! Lol
Happy growing guys!
 
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