Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
will be running at @ 36 watts each, 420 total at 61% efficiency. it's in the vid but also some where on SupraSPL's charts.
12x3590-DIY Cree COB Build
- Thread starter Ronin-indi
- Start date
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
DEWALT ACCESSORIES Split Point Drill Bit With Pilot Point Tip
by DEWALT
Link: http://amzn.com/B00004YMEE
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
got all of the mounting holes drilled and tapped... fuck my life... buy self tapping screws!
it all fits nicely
marking lead holes for the wires to go through and run along the back
test wire
it all fits nicely
marking lead holes for the wires to go through and run along the back
test wire
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
Stop! When you layout the cob holder do it so the white wire connectors go over the same channel in the back of the heatsink!
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
More Tomorrow!
Ready to clean them all up and prep for sand and polish.
Then I will start the wiring and the control panel, got a waterproof project box and grommets from ebay to make it all purdy like.
Ready to clean them all up and prep for sand and polish.
Then I will start the wiring and the control panel, got a waterproof project box and grommets from ebay to make it all purdy like.
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
Oops too late, sorry man. If you line up the white plastic connectors over your black center line then the (-) and (+) wires run in the same channel and you aren't having to hop a wire over a heatsink fin or try to drill another hole to get the + wire into the - connector
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
ooohhh good call. a little over site on my part there.
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
Below is my drill template. The small outermost holes (topmost and bottommost in the pic) are for the lens cover holder. I only put two screws in this light, it seemed enough. They are perpendicular to the length of the heatsink.
The two larger holes are for threading the + and - wires to the back of the heatsink. They're larger so I can file the edges smooth with a needle file on both front and back so I don't cut the wire insulation and short high voltage into the heatsink when I change direction with the wire. Bad juju. They are filled with silicone and covered with the lens after wiring is complete.
The two small holes at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock are for the COB holder. If you cant the holder in this way you can keep a straight run from the connector to the large through-hole nearby.
You can still get the wires to go into the same channel with your heatsink. Just pick the channel you want to use and drill another hole so the hole opens into the same channel. Fill the unused one with silicone.
You can see where the heatsink fins are on the back in the pic below by the shadows. See how my larger through holes are all lined up over the same channel? No jumping a wire over a fin and running the risk of cutting the insulation if you set the light on its back and killing yourself the next time you power it up.
Make sure you run a ground wire from the Mean Well power cord green wire to a spade connector screwed securely onto each heatsink bar. You'll probably connect your bars together with aluminum but ground each one separately. Better safe than sorry.
The two larger holes are for threading the + and - wires to the back of the heatsink. They're larger so I can file the edges smooth with a needle file on both front and back so I don't cut the wire insulation and short high voltage into the heatsink when I change direction with the wire. Bad juju. They are filled with silicone and covered with the lens after wiring is complete.
The two small holes at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock are for the COB holder. If you cant the holder in this way you can keep a straight run from the connector to the large through-hole nearby.
You can still get the wires to go into the same channel with your heatsink. Just pick the channel you want to use and drill another hole so the hole opens into the same channel. Fill the unused one with silicone.
You can see where the heatsink fins are on the back in the pic below by the shadows. See how my larger through holes are all lined up over the same channel? No jumping a wire over a fin and running the risk of cutting the insulation if you set the light on its back and killing yourself the next time you power it up.
Make sure you run a ground wire from the Mean Well power cord green wire to a spade connector screwed securely onto each heatsink bar. You'll probably connect your bars together with aluminum but ground each one separately. Better safe than sorry.
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
I did it too. You'd have caught it when you started wiring. Oops! You can still recover and your reflector will cover the mistake. It'll still be purdy.
WeeblesWobbles
Well-Known Member
Smooth those sharp--and they're very sharp--hole edges before you run the wire. You will cut insulation otherwise. You can spin a slightly larger drill bit by hand.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ordered my hs and cobs/supplies today
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I was gonna do the same spread as you but I own a 4 cob go green led that I'll use for my center 
in just doing 2 36"'s on 5.886 with 4 cobs a piece.( I got CD bin 4000 (2) & 3500k (6). I'm so stoked he still had top bin)
My hs's will be 30" apart from end to end, 20.4" between them. The drivers will each have their own piece of flat aluminum stretching across the 20" gap right at the edge. So the whole middle is open.
____________________
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| __ |
| [___] |
|___________________|
|___________________|
This didn't work^^
(You get the Idea...
in just doing 2 36"'s on 5.886 with 4 cobs a piece.( I got CD bin 4000 (2) & 3500k (6). I'm so stoked he still had top bin)My hs's will be 30" apart from end to end, 20.4" between them. The drivers will each have their own piece of flat aluminum stretching across the 20" gap right at the edge. So the whole middle is open.
____________________
____________________|
| __ |
| [___] |
|___________________|
|___________________|
This didn't work^^
(You get the Idea...
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I dont know how you got those at home depot. Mine doesnt have em and they're not even on their website :/ what'd you use those for? The bolts on those are great dude I need those.Another hangup I was having was locating a #43 drill bit, so after so trial and error and error and error... I found this to work for the 4-40 tap. I am clearly no professional machinist but I seent it on the TV once.View attachment 3594426
Gotta get those titanium bits!
Found these at HDepot but the bag was printed upside down...View attachment 3594430
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
checked my receipts, I got those at Lowes not HD. They were the only 4-40 i could find. I got the big eye bolts and thread protector caps at HD for the hanger/stands. Neither of them had the tap or self tapping screws, had to get the tap at a local joint.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I went ahead and just ordered 50 #4-40x3/16" bolts and #4-40 nut from ebay
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
sorry guys, life happened... more to come soon
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Switched the length to 1/4".
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
OK back at it. Here are some more pics...
drilling holes for the ground wires... just seemed like a smart idea. and wire lead holes on the same side of center, thanks @WeeblesWobbles
drilling holes for the ground wires... just seemed like a smart idea. and wire lead holes on the same side of center, thanks @WeeblesWobbles
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
What's it look like done wired up? I wanna see more! !
Ronin-indi
Well-Known Member
So fresh and so clean... 99% iso wash and 1000 grit wet sanding.
Oh this is the exciting part, the line-up.
and here's the first
Oh this is the exciting part, the line-up.
and here's the first