12x3590-DIY Cree COB Build

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DEWALT ACCESSORIES Split Point Drill Bit With Pilot Point Tip
by DEWALT
Link: http://amzn.com/B00004YMEE
 
More Tomorrow!
Ready to clean them all up and prep for sand and polish.
Then I will start the wiring and the control panel, got a waterproof project box and grommets from ebay to make it all purdy like.
 
Oops too late, sorry man. If you line up the white plastic connectors over your black center line then the (-) and (+) wires run in the same channel and you aren't having to hop a wire over a heatsink fin or try to drill another hole to get the + wire into the - connector
 
Below is my drill template. The small outermost holes (topmost and bottommost in the pic) are for the lens cover holder. I only put two screws in this light, it seemed enough. They are perpendicular to the length of the heatsink.

The two larger holes are for threading the + and - wires to the back of the heatsink. They're larger so I can file the edges smooth with a needle file on both front and back so I don't cut the wire insulation and short high voltage into the heatsink when I change direction with the wire. Bad juju. They are filled with silicone and covered with the lens after wiring is complete.

The two small holes at 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock are for the COB holder. If you cant the holder in this way you can keep a straight run from the connector to the large through-hole nearby.
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You can still get the wires to go into the same channel with your heatsink. Just pick the channel you want to use and drill another hole so the hole opens into the same channel. Fill the unused one with silicone.

You can see where the heatsink fins are on the back in the pic below by the shadows. See how my larger through holes are all lined up over the same channel? No jumping a wire over a fin and running the risk of cutting the insulation if you set the light on its back and killing yourself the next time you power it up.

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Make sure you run a ground wire from the Mean Well power cord green wire to a spade connector screwed securely onto each heatsink bar. You'll probably connect your bars together with aluminum but ground each one separately. Better safe than sorry.
 
Smooth those sharp--and they're very sharp--hole edges before you run the wire. You will cut insulation otherwise. You can spin a slightly larger drill bit by hand.
 
I was gonna do the same spread as you but I own a 4 cob go green led that I'll use for my center :) in just doing 2 36"'s on 5.886 with 4 cobs a piece.( I got CD bin 4000 (2) & 3500k (6). I'm so stoked he still had top bin)
My hs's will be 30" apart from end to end, 20.4" between them. The drivers will each have their own piece of flat aluminum stretching across the 20" gap right at the edge. So the whole middle is open.

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This didn't work^^

(You get the Idea...
 
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Ronin-indi said:
Another hangup I was having was locating a #43 drill bit, so after so trial and error and error and error... I found this to work for the 4-40 tap. I am clearly no professional machinist but I seent it on the TV once. :hump:View attachment 3594426
Gotta get those titanium bits!


Found these at HDepot but the bag was printed upside down...View attachment 3594430
Click to expand...
I dont know how you got those at home depot. Mine doesnt have em and they're not even on their website :/ what'd you use those for? The bolts on those are great dude I need those.
 
checked my receipts, I got those at Lowes not HD. They were the only 4-40 i could find. I got the big eye bolts and thread protector caps at HD for the hanger/stands. Neither of them had the tap or self tapping screws, had to get the tap at a local joint.
 
Ronin-indi said:
checked my receipts, I got those at Lowes not HD. They were the only 4-40 i could find. I got the big eye bolts and thread protector caps at HD for the hanger/stands. Neither of them had the tap or self tapping screws, had to get the tap at a local joint.
Click to expand...
I went ahead and just ordered 50 #4-40x3/16" bolts and #4-40 nut from ebay
 
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