CXB3590 1500W

[welight]

One thing for sure is the different color COBs are obvious. the 5000K for Veg is much brighter than the 3500K and that one is brighter than the 3000K. The 3000K just doesn't seem to have the aggressiveness of the higher temp COBs. I'm guessing the 2700K would appear dimmer but dimmer might be a bad choice of words and they put out the same energy but that's the way the rods & cones in our eyes perceive those wavelength's intensities? No clue.

Not sure the concepts are fully covered here. No question higher content blue makes led appear brighter however if the flux bins are identical then your getting same photon density. the reality is the phosphor mix for warmer colours inhibits flux/efficacy, so you will always get higher flux bins the cooler you go, nothing to do with amount of phosphor just its composition

 

[BecauseIgotHigh]

Hey Supra or anyone,

Correct me if I'm wrong, is it a 10k resistor that makes my 200w cxa3590 4 chips + 1 driver 5000k down to 10% safely?

 

[REALSTYLES]

Can i ask something here ?? really intrigued with Cob's but something is on my mind i see everyone is mixing spectrum's to there Diy units
As a 1215 watt Nanolux growers running 4 of them i am looking to add 3 full spectrum lights in-between them which do you honestly think would be better COB or CMH
I been looking at both spectrums it appears CMH has a more rounded spectrum in the lower end as well in the upper end or am stoned lol ..
Either way could someone please be kind of enough to give me your imput ?
been looking at nano CMH plug and play,, Please note i am not looking for efficiency as i do own a gas Guzzling SUV.. but i want a honest opinion what route should i go as in cost and Overall performance how much would it cost to make same units in cob COB present prices
Nano 315 CMH 323 bucks
Nano 630 CMH 550 bucks

How much to make 315 or 630 full spectrum

Just let it go cobs are HPS destroyers the lights that I've made will outperform CMH and HPS with little effort.

 

[2ANONYMOUS]

Just let it go cobs are HPS destroyers the lights that I've made will outperform CMH and HPS with little effort.

first of all if i wanted your opinion i would of posted it in your thread which i didn't i was more or less asking SPL, and others following this thread ..
Whats there to let go ??? i am pulling just under 12 pounds with my Nano's now consistently and happy , thats money in my bank ,, i do not need to here your mumbling that cobs are HPS destroyers haha seriously i was asking about spectrums and if cobs are pulling the same as CMH as i repeat my self
I AM LOOKING FOR SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTING and Full spectrum?? if it was not so expensive i would put 3 plasma in between them GET IT ??? So now contemplating LEC Full spectrum or possible COB
So your answer is meaningless i build a HPS destroyer ??? WTF ??? GO sit the fuck down or go sit in your tent, cause your not in the same league

 

[bggrass]

I saw this website in the banners here in RIU. They seem to have cxb3070 BD bin and cxb3590 36v and 72v in DB bin available at a reasonable cost even with the shipping to US. Also angelina reflectors for a reasonable price as well. @SupraSPL, or anyone else who knows how to do it, is it possible to make efficiency spreadsheets for the above cobs?

http://cutter.com.au/

 

[EfficientWatt]

Waouw, you badass'

You so tuff, you must have big penis !

Jesus (...) so much ego in some guys around here .. just go and buy some plasma then if you have so much moneys in your bank (..)

Asshole

first of all if i wanted your opinion i would of posted it in your thread which i didn't i was more or less asking SPL, and others following this thread ..
Whats there to let go ??? i am pulling just under 12 pounds with my Nano's now consistently and happy , thats money in my bank ,, i do not need to here your mumbling that cobs are HPS destroyers haha seriously i was asking about spectrums and if cobs are pulling the same as CMH as i repeat my self
I AM LOOKING FOR SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTING and Full spectrum?? if it was not so expensive i would put 3 plasma in between them GET IT ??? So now contemplating LEC Full spectrum or possible COB
So your answer is meaningless i build a HPS destroyer ??? WTF ??? GO sit the fuck down or go sit in your tent, cause your not in the same league

 

[SupraSPL]

Can i ask something here ?? really intrigued with Cob's but something is on my mind i see everyone is mixing spectrum's to there Diy units
As a 1215 watt Nanolux growers running 4 of them i am looking to add 3 full spectrum lights in-between them which do you honestly think would be better COB or CMH
I been looking at both spectrums it appears CMH has a more rounded spectrum in the lower end as well in the upper end or am stoned lol ..
Either way could someone please be kind of enough to give me your imput ?
been looking at nano CMH plug and play,, Please note i am not looking for efficiency as i do own a gas Guzzling SUV.. but i want a honest opinion what route should i go as in cost and Overall performance how much would it cost to make same units in cob COB present prices
Nano 315 CMH 323 bucks
Nano 630 CMH 550 bucks

I understand what you mean when you say you are not prioritizing efficiency. The direct electrical savings of LED vs HID is only a small portion of the profit from growing Canna, but there is another important consideration which is heat. COBs can get the same job done with 1/3 the heat of HPS and 1/2 the electrical cost. If that is something that interests you then believe me COBs are for you and up front cost be damned because it is a small portion relative to the profit. In other words, if reducing heat can increase your productivity and reduce your overhead at the same time, then COBs are where its at.

As far as spectrum goes, it has proven to be almost irrelevant compared to efficiency, uniformity and intensity. CMH is 92 CRi, COB is 80 CRi, no worries either way you will get super dank bud if you can keep the canopy temps under control and grow dank varieties. You can get 90-97 CRi COBs, but the photon count really suffers leading to a much lower yield and a huge increase in non productive heat. They are great for photography though.

CMH is a great tech for growing cannabis, but not when compared to COB for these reasons, which are common to all HIDs:
low efficiency (upper 30% range for CMH)
significant reflector losses
bulb and reflector depreciation
poor uniformity
825nm infrared heat radiated into the canopy

Using COBs you can bring your canopy PPFD up, canopy temps down, improve bud quality, improve uniformity, reduce reflector losses, reduce non productive heat load by 66%, reduce electrical cost by ~ 50%, reduce/eliminate AC electrical costs, reduce ventilation air flow, improve stealth/security.

You could build a 200W COB test unit and then scale it up if you like the results. If you are not into DIY you could order commercial COBs or have one custom designed/built for your space.

 

[SupraSPL]

Hey Supra or anyone,

Correct me if I'm wrong, is it a 10k resistor that makes my 200w cxa3590 4 chips + 1 driver 5000k down to 10% safely?

Yes you can add a 10K resistor in series with a 100K pot to get 10-100% dimming. Or you can go with just the 100K and avoid turning the knob below 10%.

 

[SupraSPL]

I saw this website in the banners here in RIU. They seem to have cxb3070 BD bin and cxb3590 36v and 72v in DB bin available at a reasonable cost even with the shipping to US. Also angelina reflectors for a reasonable price as well. @SupraSPL, or anyone else who knows how to do it, is it possible to make efficiency spreadsheets for the above cobs?

http://cutter.com.au/

Yes I have been talking with Mark recently, a great guy and has been helping COBlins like me get top bin CREE for many years and now working with RIU! He is working on securing some very interesting bins, the CXB3590 4000K 70 CRi DB is one I would really like to try, along with the 3070 BD. Id like to mix some in with the 3500 CDs.

First the caveats, the actual output difference between the 80 CRi CD and 70 CRi DB could be less in practice because the CD might perform closer to typical or maximum figures, while the DB might perform under the typical values. The 70 CRi will likely have less red and more blue/green tint, slightly lower photon count and slightly less photosynthetic. Anything under 50W is extrapolated, but is backed up by the droop testing. All that said, these are some very promising figures, based on CREE's typical lumen figures, Aleshs/ QER and Mr Flux CXA LER.

 

[Flashero]

Yes I have been talking with Mark recently, a great guy and has been helping COBlins like me get top bin CREE for many years and now working with RIU! He is working on securing some very interesting bins, the CXB3590 4000K 70 CRi DB is one I would really like to try, along with the 3070 BD.

First the caveats, the actual output difference between the 80 CRi CD and 70 CRi DB could be less in practice because the CD might perform closer to typical or maximum figures, while the DB might perform under the typical values, closer to the minimums. The 70 CRi will likely have less red and more blue/green tint. Anything under 50W is extrapolated but is backed up by the droop testing. All that said, these are some very promising figures, based on Crees typical lumen figures, Aleshs/ QER and Mr Flux CXA LER.

View attachment 3560522

Wow! 69.34% efficiency at .7A!

 

[SupraSPL]

And the CXB3070 4000K 70 CRi BD

 

[bggrass]

Thanks Supra! Has anyone flowered under 4000K? Will it make much more difference than 3500K?

 

[SupraSPL]

Yes I flowered under 4000K 80 CRi and could not detect any difference between 3000K 3500K and 4000K.
Cannaventure - Garlic Breath under 4000K 80 CRi:


I recently ran a batch under straight 3500K 80 CRi and was happy with the results.

TGA - Ace of Spades (55 days of 12/12)


G13 Labs - Sour Jack (54 days of 12/12)


Exotic - Grease Monkey (56 days of 12/12)


TH Seeds - Critical HOG (56 days of 12/12)

 

[werm11]

Yes I flowered under 4000K 80 CRi and could not detect any difference between 3000K 3500K and 4000K.
Cannaventure - Garlic Breath under 4000K 80 CRi:
View attachment 3560590

I recently ran a batch under straight 3500K 80 CRi and was happy with the results.

TGA - Ace of Spades (55 days of 12/12)
View attachment 3560592

G13 Labs - Sour Jack (54 days of 12/12)
View attachment 3560593 View attachment 3560594

Exotic - Grease Monkey (56 days of 12/12)
View attachment 3560610

TH Seeds - Critical HOG (56 days of 12/12)
View attachment 3560612 View attachment 3560611

that grease monkey looks narsty! YUM. Quick question...why should one avoid dimming below 10% without a resistor? Not sure what a resistor is

 

[Megalomando]

@ Supra, as to my last post on page 30, where I was wondering what values of COB to go with my existing panels, what do you suggest? I was thinking this:

3000K 3500K 3000K 3500K

2700K 2700K 2700K 2700K

3500K 3000K 3500K 3000K

I would appreciate suggestions if the 2700K is not my best choice.

& thanks!

 

[SupraSPL]

Yes if you can get 2700K CB bin, I see no problem mixing those in. You can mix it any way you want and I suspect the best mix might be the one that is the most mixed.

 

[Megalomando]

Yes if you can get 2700K CB bin, I see no problem mixing those in. You can mix it any way you want and I suspect the best mix might be the one that is the most mixed.

Thank you, I just placed the order.

 

[Jp.the.pope]

@SupraSPL

I've been lurking in your high efficiency threads and grow journals for a while now and think I'm finally ready to make the jump to COB, in large part thanks to you.

The grow room is a dedicated room. 6' x 7' x 7'. Planning on having a 5x5 canopy with walkways on for sides. I've ordered the CXB3590 (25) and the holders.

CXB3590 - CD - 36V - 3500k
HLG - 185H - C1050(A)
Ideal 50-2303CR

Planning on running 5 cxbs per heat sink. With one driver. Seems to be the correct ratio on cobs per the driver COB efficiency chart.

Planning on running 1 COB per square foot. 25 cobs. Is this too much light? I'm afraid I may be above the 850-950 PPFD I was shooting for.

I'm having trouble determining the PPFD. I keep coming up with an answer off by a factor of ten, but nonetheless wrong.

I'm wondering if the above driver would be a good choice and how large would the heatsink need to be for passive cooling. I'm thinking of 60" length so I can run 5 COBs per driver. I was looking at the 5.886" at heatsinkusa. I just want to make sure I'm not way overshooting it.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you for all the knowledge from everything I've read. Just trying to make sure I implement it correctly.

Peace

The Pope

 

[2ANONYMOUS]

I understand what you mean when you say you are not prioritizing efficiency. The direct electrical savings of LED vs HID is only a small portion of the profit from growing Canna, but there is another important consideration which is heat. COBs can get the same job done with 1/3 the heat of HPS and 1/2 the electrical cost. If that is something that interests you then believe me COBs are for you and up front cost be damned because it is a small portion relative to the profit. In other words, if reducing heat can increase your productivity and reduce your overhead at the same time, then COBs are where its at.

As far as spectrum goes, it has proven to be almost irrelevant compared to efficiency, uniformity and intensity. CMH is 92 CRi, COB is 80 CRi, no worries either way you will get super dank bud if you can keep the canopy temps under control and grow dank varieties. You can get 90-97 CRi COBs, but the photon count really suffers leading to a much lower yield and a huge increase in non productive heat. They are great for photography though.

CMH is a great tech for growing cannabis, but not when compared to COB for these reasons, which are common to all HIDs:
low efficiency (upper 30% range for CMH)
significant reflector losses
bulb and reflector depreciation
poor uniformity
825nm infrared heat radiated into the canopy

Using COBs you can bring your canopy PPFD up, canopy temps down, improve bud quality, improve uniformity, reduce reflector losses, reduce non productive heat load by 66%, reduce electrical cost by ~ 50%, reduce/eliminate AC electrical costs, reduce ventilation air flow, improve stealth/security.

You could build a 200W COB test unit and then scale it up if you like the results. If you are not into DIY you could order commercial COBs or have one custom designed/built for your space.

Thank you very much Sir that is what i wanted to here not How Realstyles comes in with the attitude I build COB HPS Destroyers, to me that sounds extremely childish,
Everyone's growing goals are different and with that said ,
His post made it sound like his lights are far superior then anyone else's ,, And it bothered me, the way he came across..And i apologize to anyone that feels that i came across as the Bad guy,It was not intended If anyone reads my first post i was not agreeing or disagreeing on anything i just wanted opinions not statements .. on comparisons with possible previous CMH users that may have switched to cobs or run both ....

Anyways My light system is rather new on 5th grow with Nano's With NCCS system and i really love it Who knows when and or if they start fail then i probably will jump into full COB lighting or the next greatest lighting source
I personally think its not going to stop at COB being the best grow light in the years to come RIGHT ???
But i really like your idea SPL on possibly making one ,, and lets face it if Realstyles can make one surely anyone can specially when i just figured out this previous Mars LED grower turned into or thinking he is the Free mason of the DiY Cob industry and we must bow down to this clown its sickens my stomach ..

So SPL could you PM me or post where i can purchase or phone numbers to whom ever a complete parts list for two 300 watt dimable Cob units Full spectrum
My Buddy owns a tin shop so he can make me a nice profesional BOX

 

[SupraSPL]

that grease monkey looks narsty! YUM. Quick question...why should one avoid dimming below 10% without a resistor? Not sure what a resistor is

That is a good question, I believe it is a recommendation from Mean Well. Add the resitor changes the value of the 100K pot from 0-100 K ohms and it becomes 10-110 K ohms.