To add more nutrients or not. check my daily readings and you be the judge

[Mjaylover]

So I have four DWC plants about 30 days into flowering and for a while (week 2) ph started dropping. I started adding more nutrients because I felt they were low and ph starting rising again daily while ppms drop.

I have 3 G13 pineapple express and and a Cheese

This is the last 3 days of readings Ive taken and then the second reading is when I top off and readjust the ph and ppm change. I saw some yellowing tips on all the edges of the leaves and also some taco'ing at week 2-3. It doesn't appear to be getting worse but Ive seen pictures on some sites that appear to be over nutrients. One of the plants does have dark green leaves but I'm also thinking its a phosphorus defiency. My ppms are on a .5 scale and when I read other journals I see people running 1200-1500 through flower so I'm debating if I should keep adding nutes. The flowers aren't that crystally for being 4 weeks in. I would describe them as fluffy flowers still vs crystals. Thanks

Plant

27nd
P1 6.0 824,
P2 5.9 760
P3 5.6 789
P4 5.9 602

28rd
P1 6.5 840, 5.8 900
P2 6.3 698 5.8 784
P3 6.2 783 5.7 816
P4 6.3 573 5.7 646

29th
P1 6.2 890 5.6 925
P2 5.6 714, 5.8 764
P3 6.0 777, 5.8 825
P4 5.8 591, 5.8 764

 

[firsttimeARE]

Phos. def. will be blueish green leaves.

Yellow edges of new growth and dark green leaves indicate overfeeding.

What others run and what you can run vary.

 

[Mjaylover]

Phos. def. will be blueish green leaves.

Yellow edges of new growth and dark green leaves indicate overfeeding.

What others run and what you can run vary.

Yeah the edges are on old fan leaves not new. That's why I'm leaning towards phosphorous deficiency not over nutes

 

[hotrodharley]

Your PPM is climbing. They are drinking but not taking up nutes. Lower your EC/PPM by diluting with water. No matter how high others run. Have you changed the res entirely? Suggest swapping it out for fresh and start at EC of 500. If it starts dropping it means they are taking it up. If it still climbs suspect lockout.

 

[firsttimeARE]

If ppm is rising it doesnt always indicate overfeed.

I was feeing 0.9EC my last batch in summer.and was getting feed rises. My plants were just drinking so much water due to high 80s canopy temps. Was emptying a 5 gallon bucket in 3 days.

 

[Mjaylover]

Your PPM is climbing. They are drinking but not taking up nutes. Lower your EC/PPM by diluting with water. No matter how high others run. Have you changed the res entirely? Suggest swapping it out for fresh and start at EC of 500. If it starts dropping it means they are taking it up. If it still climbs suspect lockout.

Maybe my post was confusing but the ppm are clearing dropping some by A LOT.


from the 27th to the 28th P2 dropped 62 ppms from the 28th to the 29th P4 went from 646 to 596 every plant is dropping. the numbers to the right are adjusted ppms and ph by topping off with nutes. You have to start at the 27th move down to the first number that's where they drop, then I adjust by adding more nutes then drop down to the next day and watch it drop even more

EC of 500 or .5? I'm running around 1.6-1.8 right now and they are drinking a lot.

 

[firsttimeARE]

If youre already feeding 1.6-1.8EC and the plants are healthy just accept that the feed drops and change the res when the water gets too low.

Its not going to make you get more yield unless youre going so low youre going deficient. Which doesnt seem to be the case.

Also stop using ppm. Its confusing and means literally nothing. Use EC.

 

[Mjaylover]

If youre already feeding 1.6-1.8EC and the plants are healthy just accept that the feed drops and change the res when the water gets too low.

Its not going to make you get more yield unless youre going so low youre going deficient. Which doesnt seem to be the case.

Also stop using ppm. Its confusing and means literally nothing. Use EC.

If you read my post you would understand that the plants looked unhealthy to me and the flowers weren't as develop as they should at there age. Also I see drops in my ph when the nutrients are low that's why I was asking with these type of drops should I keep adding more. Plus when I say my ppms are on a .5 scale it means everything. But if you can't do the conversion in your head I'll start using EC for ya bruh.

 

[firsttimeARE]

I gre g13 PE before and they packed weight quickly and could handle high feeds(1.6ECish). What ratio are you running? You could be feeding the right feed level but it could be N rich. Which would cause dark green leaves. When you add back the same ratio youre giving more N it doesnt need and the overall ratio of what it needs to what it doesnt need (more N) is further skewed.

Just speculating.

Its not about not being able to do math its just not sensible to use a # that varies. These people running 1200-1500ppm could be using a .7 or 1.0 scale in which your feed wouldnt be that off. I doubt anybody is running 1200-1500 at .5 scale. 2.4-3.0EC no way. See this ppm thing messed with you already leading you to believe youre underfeeding.

 

[firsttimeARE]

If you read my post you would understand that the plants looked unhealthy to me and the flowers weren't as develop as they should at there age. Also I see drops in my ph when the nutrients are low that's why I was asking with these type of drops should I keep adding more. Plus when I say my ppms are on a .5 scale it means everything. But if you can't do the conversion in your head I'll start using EC for ya bruh.

Your pH could drop if your water level is low(less buffer room) and your plant decides to drink more water that day making the borderline high feed get even higher. Causing an increase in solution acidity dropping the pH.

Also just speculating.

 

[Mjaylover]

I gre g13 PE before and they packed weight quickly and could handle high feeds(1.6ECish). What ratio are you running? You could be feeding the right feed level but it could be N rich. Which would cause dark green leaves. When you add back the same ratio youre giving more N it doesnt need and the overall ratio of what it needs to what it doesnt need (more N) is further skewed.

Just speculating.

Its not about not being able to do math its just not sensible to use a # that varies. These people running 1200-1500ppm could be using a .7 or 1.0 scale in which your feed wouldnt be that off. I doubt anybody is running 1200-1500 at .5 scale. 2.4-3.0EC no way. See this ppm thing messed with you already leading you to believe youre underfeeding.

My strongest nutes tested at 1.4 so I was off by saying I'm feeding them between 1.6-1.8 ec. I did raise a couple last night to 1.5 and will probably hold there for a while. I'm getting a little tip curling up wards only on the serrated edges. And one leaf is taco'ing which if I read correct leads me to high heat or mag def. I'm nt sure. I'll probably lower the plants (have them on blocks to even canopy with other flowering plays) to see if that helps with the tip curl

I'll check the temps at the canopy with my infared thermometer.

 

[HydroRed]

If ppm is rising it doesnt always indicate overfeed.

I was feeing 0.9EC my last batch in summer.and was getting feed rises. My plants were just drinking so much water due to high 80s canopy temps. Was emptying a 5 gallon bucket in 3 days.

I was having the same issue with high temps during the end of summer along with high humidity due to rapid transpiration. My nutes were climbing & 5 gal reservoirs going empty much quicker.
As for the OP's concern, I wouldnt worry about nute drops, but more so gains. She's just telling you shes eating well is all. Sounds like you may have some temp issues? What temp are you keeping your room day/night? Whats the RH?

 

[Mjaylover]

I was having the same issue with high temps during the end of summer along with high humidity due to rapid transpiration. My nutes were climbing & 5 gal reservoirs going empty much quicker.
As for the OP's concern, I wouldnt worry about nute drops, but more so gains. She's just telling you shes eating well is all. Sounds like you may have some temp issues? What temp are you keeping your room day/night? Whats the RH?

day temps are 75~ and nights can get low I saw 59 degrees. Humidity during the day is 50%at most. Usually around 43-45% but at night it was jumping quite a bit. One meter read 59% and another stays at 65%

I dropped my dehumidifier down to help at night but I think it's gonna bring day time humidity down as well since the dehuey runs 24/7

 

[firsttimeARE]

My strongest nutes tested at 1.4 so I was off by saying I'm feeding them between 1.6-1.8 ec. I did raise a couple last night to 1.5 and will probably hold there for a while. I'm getting a little tip curling up wards only on the serrated edges. And one leaf is taco'ing which if I read correct leads me to high heat or mag def. I'm nt sure. I'll probably lower the plants (have them on blocks to even canopy with other flowering plays) to see if that helps with the tip curl

I'll check the temps at the canopy with my infared thermometer.

Tip curl upwards with dieback is usually overfeed.

Edges curling can be heat or overfeed.

1.4EC isnt bad. Ill see if I can dig up my PE pictures. Grew it 3.5 years ago though and i think that was before the site crash which erased all.uploaded files by users.

But i remember i got like 4 oz off 3 week veg. Topped out around 1.4-1.6EC

 

[firsttimeARE]

day temps are 75~ and nights can get low I saw 59 degrees. Humidity during the day is 50%at most. Usually around 43-45% but at night it was jumping quite a bit. One meter read 59% and another stays at 65%

I dropped my dehumidifier down to help at night but I think it's gonna bring day time humidity down as well since the dehuey runs 24/7

Get a controller for the dehumid. Mine ran 24/7 as well and i only needed it.for night.

It sounds like you know what youre doing youre just focusing too much on nute gain and losses. People often throw around the ppm drop pH rise you need more. ppm rise pH drop you need less. Ita not always that cut and dry.

Other variables are at play and ultimately your leaves tell you everything.

I prefer underfeeding a bit. I like knowing my pH is going to rise. this way I can set at 5.6 knowing it will rise.

Im.moving on from dwc into rdwc 25gal per plant totes and hope.to have less swings due to varying evaporation, transpiration rates and environmental changes.

Bubble buckets is one of the hardest forms of hydro IMO.

 

[Mjaylover]

Get a controller for the dehumid. Mine ran 24/7 as well and i only needed it.for night.

It sounds like you know what youre doing youre just focusing too much on nute gain and losses. People often throw around the ppm drop pH rise you need more. ppm rise pH drop you need less. Ita not always that cut and dry.

Other variables are at play and ultimately your leaves tell you everything.

I prefer underfeeding a bit. I like knowing my pH is going to rise. this way I can set at 5.6 knowing it will rise.

Im.moving on from dwc into rdwc 25gal per plant totes and hope.to have less swings due to varying evaporation, transpiration rates and environmental changes.

Bubble buckets is one of the hardest forms of hydro IMO.

I do have a controller. I've always wondered if I can connect ithe dehuey straight to the controller. I just didn't know if it would not work correctly since both the controller and the dehumidifier itself would be trying to control the humidity in the room. I know the dehumid blows sometimes without kicking on the compressor, I assume to for cool down features?

I'll probably be drop the ppma down from here and during my add back solution. Especially if you think the tip curl is from over nutes. It's strange to see ONLY the serrated edges flipped up.

 

[firsttimeARE]

Most dehumidifiers fan runs 24/7 to circulate room air to get accurate readings. Most people have fans in their grow room anyways so its kind of a waste in grows.

The controller works like a relay essentially.

You plug the dehumdifier into a plug on the controller which plugs into the wall.

The controller allows power to the connected device depending on what it senses. If what it senses is within your RH setpoint it will allow power to the device.

Mine has a dehumidify mode and a humidify mode. I have it set in dehumidify mode to turn on at 60%RH and it shuts off at 50%RH. If i flipped that to humidify it would humidify to 60% and shut off until it gets to 50%.

I use a Titan Controls Eos 1

 

[HydroRed]

Turn your dehumidifier thermostat on all the way up,plug it into the controller and let the controller do the work. If for some reason that wont work, you can put it on a timer to only run at night since your day time RH is good/low. This is how I do it since my RH spikes are at night when the light is off and not exhausting and exchanging air as frequent. Also, I would add a heater to bring up your night time temps. 59*F seems quite chilly.

 

[Mjaylover]

Turn your dehumidifier thermostat on all the way up,plug it into the controller and let the controller do the work. If for some reason that wont work, you can put it on a timer to only run at night since your day time RH is good/low. This is how I do it since my RH spikes are at night when the light is off and not exhausting and exchanging air as frequent.

Thats what I was thinking. Gotta grab an extension cord from Home Depot tomorrow. I turned the dehumidifier to 40% and it's keeping the controller sensor at around 55-60% at most.

Here's a pic of the leaf curl I I you grabbed one with the green light at night. . I am suspecting over nuting now. :/ but I really don't want to chase the ph drift down. This is the first time out of probably 10 grows where ph is still rising at week 5 in flower.

 

[HydroRed]

I would only run 1 thermostat (the main controller only). If you have the main controller at 60% and the thermostat on the unit at 40%....it will only work up to the 40 % that is set on the unit. Like I suggested if you have the thermostat on the unit on all the way up at 100% and the controller is set to 60%, no matter what that controller will only let that unit work til it reaches the % that the controller is set for. Green light pics are tuff to gauge, but I totally understand why. They dont look too bad to me? A lil slight bit of canoeing going on but that is typically from heat stress/underwatering. If your ph gets too high/low, it will eventually lock out certain nutrients macro & micro.