Spider Mites ,, what to do about those pests?

[Nullis]

The last two grows now in soil and I get bugs, the last two times I was given clones already growing as teenagers. Now when I get out of this crop, I need to do some serious cleaning, and I am going flood and drain at the very least. And I will even still do some spraying early on, just for insurance, but the whole, " soil is easier " thing, maybe not freakin bugs suck, thanks for your expertise

omg why does everyone misread me? I never said soil was easier, even if I personally think it is. I said it's easy to grow in soil without getting pests.

It's not about "easy" or not.... But of course not, wellknown fact hydro = less pest management than soil. SAR does not make up for that in any way and is not exclusive to growing on soil, i.e. totally irrelevant. Same for the concept IPM... Throwing those terms around may be useful to grow epeen, won't help kill or prevent spidermites.

Oh... And try condoms...

And yes, IPM definitely helps prevent spider mites and other pests... that would be the very point of it. It entails spraying your plants with something like Spinosad or even Dr. Bronners peppermint soap once every couple weeks. If you have a healthy soil and vigorous plants you're less likely to get them anyways because as mentioned they do go after stressed out plants. Your risk of getting them probably depends on a lot more factors than if you're growing in soil or hydro: like how common they are where you live. Obviously if you live near wooded areas as opposed to a desert or concrete jungle you're more likely to get them. Then there are seasonal factors. Then there is the whole issues of pets, if they go outside and how far you can keep them from your grow room. All of that would determine if you need to implement IPM regardless of any signs of pests actually being on your plants way more than "soil vs hydro".

BTW fuck condoms, I love my son and I make super cute babies.

i have never taken any precautions with my hydro garden to prevent or control bugs that could harm the plants, bugs just don't seem to be interested in my hydro plants,

i do not think soil would be as simple to stay bug free if it requires adding stuff to soil to control pests

See above comments pertaining to risk of getting spider mites.
But I'm adding stuff to my 'soil' anyways, I build it myself again using a hydro mix as a base. It often includes fresh earthworm castings, which predator mites persist in. That means the predators do fine all on their own and come from something I am adding to the mix anyways. I do not have to keep adding them and I've never purchased them. This "stuff" isn't solely for the purpose of controlling pests either, that's just one of their benefits. They also shred organic matter for microbes, keep my mix aerated, and any pests they do eat they are turning into fertilizer. All other inputs are minimal. No checking pH, no feeding schedule, no need for pumps of any kind and my plants can live enitrely without me for a week or more. One of the many reasons I grow in soil is because if I was doing any hydro and my power ever went out for days at a time, which has happened, I'd be totally screwed.

 

[pappybear]

what about brix. ive read that at à certain brix level mites wont be a problem. how do you get your brix levels up.

 

[Dr. Who]

can forbid be used in flower? I am 4.5 weeks into flower,,and kinda bummed out this morning about this whole mess

also is avid or floramite just as good as forbid?

Yes and yes.......BUT,,,,,AVID is actually a human poison and should not be used in bloom at all..

As far as using Forbid in bloom -
Forbid is translaminar. That means it is "lightly" sprayed on the leaf surface and travels through the leaf and rests on the bottom of the leaf - where mites feed...
Forbids active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils.

In toxicology reports to states and federal boards.....testing (by college's) found no human pathogenic response other then irritation if you get it in your eye's (in full strength)!

Doc

Ebay for small amounts that are affordable

 

[Dr. Who]

omg why does everyone misread me? I never said soil was easier, even if I personally think it is. I said it's easy to grow in soil without getting pests.

LMFAO !!!
Welcome to the other side of the fence Bro!!!

Uncle Ben used to tell me "It's like talking to a brick wall"

Doc

 

[Tim Fox]

LMFAO !!!
Welcome to the other side of the fence Bro!!!

Uncle Ben used to tell me "It's like talking to a brick wall"

Doc

I know my head is thick,, lol, joking,
So your saying yes to floramite, at five weeks flower?

 

[Tim Fox]

omg why does everyone misread me? I never said soil was easier, even if I personally think it is. I said it's easy to grow in soil without getting pests.

And yes, IPM definitely helps prevent spider mites and other pests... that would be the very point of it. It entails spraying your plants with something like Spinosad or even Dr. Bronners peppermint soap once every couple weeks. If you have a healthy soil and vigorous plants you're less likely to get them anyways because as mentioned they do go after stressed out plants. Your risk of getting them probably depends on a lot more factors than if you're growing in soil or hydro: like how common they are where you live. Obviously if you live near wooded areas as opposed to a desert or concrete jungle you're more likely to get them. Then there are seasonal factors. Then there is the whole issues of pets, if they go outside and how far you can keep them from your grow room. All of that would determine if you need to implement IPM regardless of any signs of pests actually being on your plants way more than "soil vs hydro".

BTW fuck condoms, I love my son and I make super cute babies.


See above comments pertaining to risk of getting spider mites.
But I'm adding stuff to my 'soil' anyways, I build it myself again using a hydro mix as a base. It often includes fresh earthworm castings, which predator mites persist in. That means the predators do fine all on their own and come from something I am adding to the mix anyways. I do not have to keep adding them and I've never purchased them. This "stuff" isn't solely for the purpose of controlling pests either, that's just one of their benefits. They also shred organic matter for microbes, keep my mix aerated, and any pests they do eat they are turning into fertilizer. All other inputs are minimal. No checking pH, no feeding schedule, no need for pumps of any kind and my plants can live enitrely without me for a week or more. One of the many reasons I grow in soil is because if I was doing any hydro and my power ever went out for days at a time, which has happened, I'd be totally screwed.

Your all good bro, good stuff coming out in this thread

 

[james murphy]

use no spider mite..its og and kills on contact...spray then repeat 3 or four days later..wont leave a nasty ass chem. on ur buds...unless u use at the very end. ive made and tried dozens of pre made shit...this really works..and prevents very well w/ out burning ...just use common sense

 

[a mongo frog]

Yes and yes.......BUT,,,,,AVID is actually a human poison and should not be used in bloom at all..

As far as using Forbid in bloom -
Forbid is translaminar. That means it is "lightly" sprayed on the leaf surface and travels through the leaf and rests on the bottom of the leaf - where mites feed...
Forbids active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils.

In toxicology reports to states and federal boards.....testing (by college's) found no human pathogenic response other then irritation if you get it in your eye's (in full strength)!

Doc

Ebay for small amounts that are affordable

Your not aloud to use avid or forbid in flower. 100 percent certain thats code in this hobby. Potted up last week of veg only. If its medicine for others then thats pretty fucked up.

 

[Alaric]

If the problem gets out of hand and your only "controlling" and not killing them off......

Time to bite the bullet and use a mite "nuke" product like Forbid 4F.......Works when nothing else does anymore...and it's NOT a human poison, nor is it "systemic"....

Doc

Finally----was wondering if anyone was going to mention Forbid and Avid. I've never tried Forbid but have Avid----total eradication of spider mites.

Fly flies is a different story.

A~~~

 

[Alaric]

Your not aloud to use avid or forbid in flower. 100 percent certain thats code in this hobby. Potted up last week of veg only. If its medicine for others then thats pretty fucked up.

Yes, forgot to mention that----the half life of Avid is 30 days-----so just don't apply within 30 days of harvest.

A~~~

 

[a mongo frog]

Yes, forgot to mention that----the half life of Avid is 30 days-----so just don't apply within 30 days of harvest.

A~~~

Your applying Avid on day 35 of flower on a 9 week strain? HOLY FUCK...............

 

[Tim Fox]

Finally----was wondering if anyone was going to mention Forbid and Avid. I've never tried Forbid but have Avid----total eradication of spider mites.

Fly flies is a different story.

A~~~

I have no problem going with the big guns, on the next crop I really have great advice, and will probably have a nice run after already having them now I won't pretend that they are gone and not ycoming back, but Monday is five weeks, and the stupid soap spray hurt some pistols, I am guessing burn, as I sprayed with lights on,
I really want to nail there asses to the wall,
With that said, I have
Soap spray store bought
Azamax coming from eBay
Should I just use those the final four weeks, or order
Floramite?
Since avid andand forbid can't be used this late?

 

[a mongo frog]

I have no problem going with the big guns, on the next crop I really have great advice, and will probably have a nice run after already having them now I won't pretend that they are gone and not ycoming back, but Monday is five weeks, and the stupid soap spray hurt some pistols, I am guessing burn, as I sprayed with lights on,
I really want to nail there asses to the wall,
With that said, I have
Soap spray store bought
Azamax coming from eBay
Should I just use those the final four weeks, or order
Floramite?
Since avid andand forbid can't be used this late?

Nope no floromite either. How big of garden we talking about here? Because mighty wash works 100 percent for sure. Ive used and beat it once in week 7 on a 10 week desiel. 2 applications.

 

[skunkd0c]

omg why does everyone misread me? I never said soil was easier, even if I personally think it is. I said it's easy to grow in soil without getting pests.

And yes, IPM definitely helps prevent spider mites and other pests... that would be the very point of it. It entails spraying your plants with something like Spinosad or even Dr. Bronners peppermint soap once every couple weeks. If you have a healthy soil and vigorous plants you're less likely to get them anyways because as mentioned they do go after stressed out plants. Your risk of getting them probably depends on a lot more factors than if you're growing in soil or hydro: like how common they are where you live. Obviously if you live near wooded areas as opposed to a desert or concrete jungle you're more likely to get them. Then there are seasonal factors. Then there is the whole issues of pets, if they go outside and how far you can keep them from your grow room. All of that would determine if you need to implement IPM regardless of any signs of pests actually being on your plants way more than "soil vs hydro".

BTW fuck condoms, I love my son and I make super cute babies.


See above comments pertaining to risk of getting spider mites.
But I'm adding stuff to my 'soil' anyways, I build it myself again using a hydro mix as a base. It often includes fresh earthworm castings, which predator mites persist in. That means the predators do fine all on their own and come from something I am adding to the mix anyways. I do not have to keep adding them and I've never purchased them. This "stuff" isn't solely for the purpose of controlling pests either, that's just one of their benefits. They also shred organic matter for microbes, keep my mix aerated, and any pests they do eat they are turning into fertilizer. All other inputs are minimal. No checking pH, no feeding schedule, no need for pumps of any kind and my plants can live enitrely without me for a week or more. One of the many reasons I grow in soil is because if I was doing any hydro and my power ever went out for days at a time, which has happened, I'd be totally screwed.

it sounds like you have things under control. but it also sounds like lots of information i would need to know if i wanted to grow pest free soil plants
i like to keep things as simple as possible

with hydro, i just add an equal amount of A+B to some water i put the magic stick in to watch the lights light up and i wait for them to grow
i do not take PH measurements, but i do take regular ec measurements

i like to keep it semi automated i think it grows better when i am there, but i could set it up so it could run automatically
getting round power failure is a good point but not something i would encounter myself

a power outage would not cause a problem with the type of hydroponics i use "NFT"
2-3 days without light would not be much of an issue imo , i use 5 watt pumps. a back up system for this amount of power would be simple, the roots will be kept moist by the spreader mat for 2-3 days with no pumps, this will stop them from wilting

if you wanted to run hydroponics yourself i do not see power outage being a real issue unless you're talking about 5 days or more without light
which could push some plants into early flower when you would not want that . if this is the case it wouldn't make any difference whether they were growing in soil or hydro

peace

 

[Tim Fox]

Two plant scrog in two x three, can take plants out of box starting week five flower, very few leaves spotted, found one mite with loupe, yesterday, found one eggs sack this morning, but only looked under spotted leave, doused it with soap yesterday morning

Edit can't take plants out of the box

 

[Sativied]

The power outage argument is a moot point, easy to make up for that with a gravity based system or watering manually. Unlike lighting candles or shining flash lights at plants to make up for the loss of light.... Though... Maybe a LED flash light, I herd those can be quite efficient.

Can't relate to it either, never experienced a power outage, maybe if I had them frequently I'd consider it a problem but then there's always passive hydro. Soil is best to grow little biters and suckers and all sorts of micro life, for growing leafy plants like cannabis indoor there are much better options.

Anyway, something on topic:

Apparantly the best lady bug to kill spider mites is a black one called stethorus punctillum.

"Stethorus" is a specialized spider mite predator in the lady beetle family."

Pricey though...
http://www.evergreengrowers.com/stethorus-punctillum-spider-mite-destroyer.html

http://www.naturescontrol.com/spidermitedormancy.html
Sells the cocktail of three different predator mites I mentioned earlier too.

 

[Dr. Who]

I know my head is thick,, lol, joking,
So your saying yes to floramite, at five weeks flower?

I don't know a lot about Floramite, I do Forbid, that's my choice.

 

[Dr. Who]

Your not aloud to use avid or forbid in flower. 100 percent certain thats code in this hobby. Potted up last week of veg only. If its medicine for others then thats pretty fucked up.

Your not eh? And what exactly says that? Not arguing! I want to know......

You see, back when I needed it (Forbid) I researched the State and Federal toxicology reports......NONE of them found Forbid as toxic to humans......

Forbid 4F.......Works when nothing else does anymore...and it's NOT a human poison, nor is it "systemic"....
Forbid is translaminar. That means it is "lightly" sprayed on the leaf surface and travels through the leaf and rests on the bottom of the leaf - where mites feed...
Forbids active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils.

I think maybe you should read a few of those reports your self.......

Please don't bring up the "label" as insecticide labels are generic for Federal levels of choice - you start at CAUTION and go up from there.....Forbid is at the bottom of caution.

Doc