Spider Mites ,, what to do about those pests?

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
It's just as easy to grow in soil and never see a pest either. It's called system acquired resistance. Then of course there's always IPM.

In my "soil" I have live predators, beneficial mites that eat other mites, fungus gnats and various other pests. Spider mites would not survive in my soil.
i have never taken any precautions with my hydro garden to prevent or control bugs that could harm the plants, bugs just don't seem to be interested in my hydro plants,

i do not think soil would be as simple to stay bug free if it requires adding stuff to soil to control pests
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Its been my experience that once one see spideam I growing, mites on a few leafs your totally infested and everything in that room and other rooms need to be treated.
And I thought I was overreacting, lol, this is war!!! Legal sales start here October first, hum why am I growing
Thanks I was afraid it was everywhere, couldn't see the little shits till I got out my loupe
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Spray the leaves with water + real hand soap. (potassium hydroxide + liquid fat, not a detergent.)

I'm pretty sure that's what mighty wash is too.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
The last two grows now in soil and I get bugs, the last two times I was given clones already growing as teenagers. Now when I get out of this crop, I need to do some serious cleaning, and I am going flood and drain at the very least. And I will even still do some spraying early on, just for insurance, but the whole, " soil is easier " thing, maybe not freakin bugs suck, thanks for your expertise
Yeah best to keep a close eye on it for the next several runs, treat them preventative. It's not possible to prevent with 100% certainty but running a clean room is key and leaving soil outdoor where it belongs just contributes to that. Especially organic matter, as that is what attracts pests.

The soil is easier than hydro argument is imo a moot point. It's no rocket science either way. I spend far less time on hydro grows than soil. Heck, even if you screw up one hydro grow it caj easily make up for that once you got a setup dialed in.
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
For a scrog a bomb probably works, but natural predators would be better.

Just had my first spider mites infestation ever. Caught them early, sprayed with SMC, which is basically rapeseed/canolla oil. Cause the mites to suffocate, including larva. Does not kill eggs but prevents the from growing to adults. Does not cause resistance, can be used weekly. Similar to other "wash" products.

Pyrethrin, a flower extract, kills them by attacking their nervous system, causing them to go mad and stop eating and reproducing. Does not work on eggs, and spider mites (a population) can become resistant to it. Effective if used appropriately, which means spraying 3 times with 3 days apart. It takes 3-4 days for the eggs (like stalkless amber trichs on the bottom of leaves) to hatchs, so the idea is to kill those new ones before they become adults and lay new eggs.

Cold temps and high humidity slows them down significantly. They also use the photoperiod to determine when fall is coming, they are less active with 13 hours of light per day. This does not kill them and can cause them to go dormant for the winter.

If they are or became resistant to pyrethrin or other products, there are products specifically for resistant mites. I got bioquant ivermec-res as backup but not sure if that's available in the US.

Probably the best way to kill the adults, larva, AND eggs, especially in a scrog and during flower, is to use natural predators. They suck them dry in all stages. Best is usually Phytoseiulus persimilis, depends on the mites, another is Neoseiulus californicus. Some require higher humidity than others. Forgot the link/site but there are suppliers in the US that send out cocktails of three different predators for less $ than most products. The predators will eat each other once they cannot find any mites anymore.

Good luck killing these disgusting suckers. Before you start your next run, Lysol your growspace else you risk getting them again the next time you run too hot and dry.
Hey Sativied , i copied this from another site,, is this what your talking about,, sorry its so long

pasted ::"::::Apparently the popular De-wormer Ivermectin is extremely effective against spider mites.

Has anyone tried this???

A brief intro, please bear with me guys-
A couple of years ago I used an ivermectin horse de-wormer to treat my dog when she had scabies. I f---ed up though and gave her the dose for about a 600lb horse by accident. The dog lived, didn't get sick at all, and all the mites digging under her skin died within a day or two.

Then, today I saw on ***** where a guy had treated his spider mite infestation with a spray made from ivermectin bird miticide and water, it killed all of the mites and none of the plants- apollo 13 I believe. Then I looked more and found the same treatment on an orchid forum for Two spotted spider mites. Then it made sense to me, the scabies on my dog were MITES- slowly, and somewhat dimmly the light bulb came on inside my brain... Sometimes I hate being on the slow side.

For those who don't know: Ivermectin is a very popular horse,cattle, pig, sheep, bird, cat and dog de-wormer. You give it to your dogs when you give them heart guard. It is used on humans too, sold as Stromectol®. It also is certain death for most types of paracitic mites, including the ones that cause mange in cats and dogs. Chemically it is related to avermectin B which I believe is the main ingredient to Plant Vitality Plus, a proven kill all for mites (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong). I found out more about the where it came from and uses of it, but I don't want to bore you all.

Ivermectin can be bought as an oral jel for horses, or in a topical or injectable liquid for cattle, sheep or pigs and such at your local feed and farm supply store, Tractor Supply Company, Southern States, or online from most horse or farm catalogs, valleyvet.com for example. IT's about 15 bucks for 250ml of pour on de-wormer. and the cheap Ivermectin Gel goes for about $2.50. The dosage is 1ml per 22lbs of bodyweight for the pour on, and one tube treats a 1200lb horse with the gel.

I have not tried it yet. and I don't know what ratio to mix it at. THe gel wormer seems the most likely candidate simply because of it's price, and the fact that the one dose should treat a s---load of plants. I am going to give this a shot and post my results, but I wanted to know what the peanut gallery had to say, as well as share my "discovery" with the rest of you all.

HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS HERE???
What kind of ratio of Ivermectin to water should I use?
I'm just saying... this stuff is a helluva lot cheaper than most spider mite remedies out there, and is said to kill em dead, without the bug bombs and other such madness.
EDIT:
end quote,,
I think i can make this shit easy, I live near feed stores here in the country side
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
i do not think soil would be as simple to stay bug free if it requires adding stuff to soil to control pests
Like more nasty bugs and smelly shit.

@Tim Fox I don't know what exactly is in the ivermec-res I got (nor the difference in ingredients with the regular ivermec from bioquant), the product came up as a popular solution that worked when others failed (like vertimec, also popular, contains abamectine), in the main dutch grow forum, and my local growshop carries it so I got that one too. Anyway, sure sounds like the same stuff, thanks for sharing that post. Hopefully won't need it but nice to know what it is.
 

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
And I thought I was overreacting, lol, this is war!!! Legal sales start here October first, hum why am I growing
Thanks I was afraid it was everywhere, couldn't see the little shits till I got out my loupe
At least you don't have powder or aphids. Seems like enough info in your thread to beat this. Id try all of it!!! I do know mighty wash works unfortunately I've used it. But if church knows the recipe try it, he knows all that diy nutes shit.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
Reminds me of: https://www.rollitup.org/t/bug-help-identify-please.706485/#post-9470743

I get those sometimes, haven't seen them for a while though, they seem to be attracted to my healthy hydro garden but do no harm and indeed don't look like miniature aliens. They eat plant lice / aphids and according to some sources mites too, just not fast enough so you need a lot. They don't canabilize eachother when the mites or lice are dead so have to clean up the corpses... Or maybe get other bugs to do that.

Though when you use bugs to kill bugs you have to wonder... Where did all the poop go?
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
Maybe these daisies could help with some bugs :)


Tanacetum cinerariifolium 'Dalmatian Pyrethrum'


The Pyrethrum daisy or Tanacetum cinerariaefolium, is a remarkable plant. In the garden this unassuming, attractive member of the daisy family, bears numerous flowers held on strong stems. Its flowers, single white daisies with golden eyes, bloom throughout summer and autumn.
The plants have blue-green lacy foliage and grow around 45 to 60cm (18 to 24in) in height. They are hardy to about -12°C (10°F)

However lovely this simple plant is in the garden, it real strengths are as an insecticide. Packed into microscopic oil bearing glands on the surface of the seed case in the flower's head is a complex plant oil which the plant has evolved over millennia to keep insects away.
The Pyrethrum daisy makes a natural, organic insecticide or insect repellent that can be safely used instead of commercial sprays.


Pyrethrum insecticide is one of the most widely used natural insecticides in existence. Pyrethrins work as a contact insecticide, the insect only has to be touched by the substance for it to take effect. When not present in amounts fatal to insects, they still appear to have an insect repellent effect. It will inhibit the biting reflex in female mosquitoes. Crucially, although pyrethrum acts quickly on insect pests, it is relatively non-toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals.
Pyrethrum can be toxic to birds and mammals, but it’s much less so than synthetic insecticides currently in use. Even better, it’s non-persistent; unlike most insecticides, it biodegrades when exposed to light, converting to organically-safe components in as little as 12 hours. This instability makes it one of the safest pesticides for use when growing produce; ironically, however, it’s the same reason why pyrethrum is very rarely used in commercial agriculture. It doesn’t last long enough to suit large-scale farmers.
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
Reminds me of: https://www.rollitup.org/t/bug-help-identify-please.706485/#post-9470743

I get those sometimes, haven't seen them for a while though, they seem to be attracted to my healthy hydro garden but do no harm and indeed don't look like miniature aliens. They eat plant lice / aphids and according to some sources mites too, just not fast enough so you need a lot. They don't canabilize eachother when the mites or lice are dead so have to clean up the corpses... Or maybe get other bugs to do that.

Though when you use bugs to kill bugs you have to wonder... Where did all the poop go?
bugs to clean up the good bugs that killed the bad bugs, that is a hell of a lot of bugs, where does it end
what happens when the bugs that cleaned up the good bugs need cleaning up themselves

More bugs !
it would make sense to keep these bugs on a perpetual rotation imo
bugs constantly cleaning up bugs sounds like equilibrium to me, perfect sense
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
That's actually what I use, from chrysanthemums (formerly pyrethrum).

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrethrin

Common in many products, I got it in highly concentrated form combined with
piperonylbutoxide. Adding a few ml to a liter water has a seemingly strong chemical reaction, toxic, especially on inhaling.

"Piperonyl butoxide (PBO) is an organic compound used as a component of pesticide formulations. It is a waxy white solid. It is a synergist. That is, despite having no pesticidal activity of its own, it enhances the potency of certain pesticides such as carbamates, pyrethrins, pyrethroids, and rotenone.[1] It is a semisynthetic derivative of safrole.[2]"
Wiki
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
bugs to clean up the good bugs that killed the bad bugs, that is a hell of a lot of bugs, where does it end
what happens when the bugs that cleaned up the good bugs need cleaning up themselves

More bugs !
it would make sense to keep these bugs on a perpetual rotation imo
bugs constantly cleaning up bugs sounds like equilibrium to me, perfect sense
The trick seems to be to use smaller and smaller bugs so the bugs that clean up the dead bugs at some point become so small they are invisible for the naked eye and it's like there are no bugs anymore but it's the soil that eats the bugs. It's called living soil.

"Did you know that in one teaspoon of living soil there are 100 million to 1 billion bacteria,1 mile to 40 miles of fungal hyphae, and 1,000-100,000 protozoa?"

:spew:
 

Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
Hey Tim, when I had my spider mite problem not too long ago I used grey soap mixed with plain water. I sprayed the solution on the bottom and top parts of the leaves every day and eventually it worked. Good luck there.
 

Don Geno

Well-Known Member
they just showed up, only a couple of leaves affected,, spotted them with my loupe under one of the leaves,
what do you guys do to combat them?
what works?
At 4 weeks into flower bring out the big guns! Also preventing is the best thing when new plants enter dip em in neem oil and soap mix dont let your grow get to hot and have lady bugs anyway i do it all because taking the time to prevent is alot better then taking a loss also look into diatemacious earth kills all bugs that have exoskeletons
 
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Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
If the problem gets out of hand and your only "controlling" and not killing them off......

Time to bite the bullet and use a mite "nuke" product like Forbid 4F.......Works when nothing else does anymore...and it's NOT a human poison, nor is it "systemic"....

Doc
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
can forbid be used in flower? I am 4.5 weeks into flower,,and kinda bummed out this morning about this whole mess
 
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