Low K, high BRIX

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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know anything about this subject? I have read from a few sources that reducing K will improve smell and flavor.

Since reading this, I have decreased the K and increased Mg in my hydroponic formula "Mix #19" while increasing Mg. I have noticed improved scent and health, but I can't be sure if it's due to reduced K, or 3 days darkness before harvest, or simply from harvesting at a different time (no control, and haven't been keeping track of time). It could also be due to the addition of sulfates from using magnesium sulfate for Mg.

Has anyone noticed any correlations between low K, high Mg, and better scent?
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I also just read from a thread on 420 magazine that ammonical forms of nitrogen will increase brix. This makes sense because NH4+ antagonizes with K+.

http://www.420magazine.com/forums/journals-progress/183995-doc-bud-high-brix-q-pictures.html

In my quest for the stickiest, best tasting weed possible, I'm experimenting with different forms of nitrogen and changing the ionic balance in the soil.

Nitrates are readily available to the plant, but they also leach out of the soil easily with watering. Ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) is different. It has a positive charge, whereas the nitrate (NO3) has a negative charge. Cation is positive, Anion is negative.

NH4 is captured by particles in the soil and are stored there until the roots and mycorrhizae on the roots break them loose and feed them to the plant.

When you feed with strongly cationic forms of nitrogen, like Ammonium sulfate or ammonium phosphate, you get these cations and it stimulates reproductive growth from the plant.

The question is when to add this?

So, I added at the onset of bloom on these plants and immediately noticed more triches than I'd ever seen before, right off the bat.

At the same time, I've also noticed that the buds aren't swelling as much as usual for these strains. So I'm hoping to change that by getting the soil back into the anionic range a bit, by feeding with Calcium Nitrate, which is rather unique.

Calcium is a very powerful cation, which will dislodge the NH4 and also boost calcium in the plants. The nitrate is readily available to the plant as well. This will very slightly favor reproductive growth and should bulk up the flowers a bit.
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james murphy

james murphy

Well-Known Member
brix...or sugar should b given to the plant in a plant based sugar molasses, yucca, or granulated fructose...wen u flush ur pulling all nutes outta plant and forces it to use the last of its sugars to finish...so flush 3 wks on sat. 2 on ind. and keep using low amounts of sugars till the last week..water stress for 2 days, then into dark for 3 days and that shit will b proper...be cured in a wk i swear...o and the colors
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Maybe BRIX isn't the term I'm looking for. I wonder more about terpenes and resin generated than sugar content. I haven't really used the term BRIX outside of hearing it being used a few times so bear with me.

I'm just curious if there's any correlation between low K and better tasting/smelling weed. (or high in something that antagonizes K)
 
heckler73

heckler73

Well-Known Member
If the K is reduced far enough, won't the plant just rob it from the leaves? How much are you actually reducing it by?
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
heckler73 said:
If the K is reduced far enough, won't the plant just rob it from the leaves?
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I don't mean reducing K to deficient levels.
heckler73 said:
How much are you actually reducing it by?
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Not as much as you think. I reduced K slightly and increased Mg slightly. My mix was high in K to begin with.

I'm also not sure if there's any truth to this. (i'm asking a question rather than trying to teach some technique i have. I honestly have no idea)
 
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testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
james murphy said:
brix...or sugar should b given to the plant in a plant based sugar molasses, yucca, or granulated fructose...wen u flush ur pulling all nutes outta plant and forces it to use the last of its sugars to finish...so flush 3 wks on sat. 2 on ind. and keep using low amounts of sugars till the last week..water stress for 2 days, then into dark for 3 days and that shit will b proper...be cured in a wk i swear...o and the colors
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That's not correct bro. Molasses is high in K. high brix growers are wary of molasses. high brix growers do not flush at all. Almost all high brix growers wash their flowers.

Dextrose is the sugar of choice in high brix.
 
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testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
The idea with K is to reduce it to near deficient levels and to increase Calcium.

There are recommended ratios that most high brix growers use. IC has a thread about AEA JOHN KEMPF's firm who consult with agriculture on theze practices.

Jon Frank is another high brix proponent. He has a few interviews on line with interesting observations. CH youve already been to the threads on 420. Doc bud bases his jawn on jon franks stuff.
 
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4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
pseudobotanist said:
I want to say the aroma could be due to you using sulfates. I remember reading that it helps with thc production
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I agree I noticed when using gypsum for calcium supplement my bud came out much stronger. I remember riddleme talking about sulfur and potency. I use tons of gypsum now for calcium and sulfur.
 
james murphy

james murphy

Well-Known Member
hey i know wat will make ur buds tasty..simple..low nutes...low temps....and flushing and allowing the plant enough time to actually throw its heads on trichs..i.e. dont take that shit a week early..best terpenes and flavonoids come out at the very end. not rocket science
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
james murphy said:
hey i know wat will make ur buds tasty..simple..low nutes...low temps....and flushing and allowing the plant enough time to actually throw its heads on trichs..i.e. dont take that shit a week early..best terpenes and flavonoids come out at the very end. not rocket science
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agree w all that but not on the fllush. brix growers reuse the soil and count on the value of the biology and minerals that are left in soil. Also gypsum is used in the soil to start and cooked in but additional calcium and sulfur is applied thru drenches and foliars.
 
james murphy

james murphy

Well-Known Member
heckler73 said:
If the K is reduced far enough, won't the plant just rob it from the leaves? How much are you actually reducing it by?
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plants nutes levels are always changing..later on the plant cant mobilize the k and so the plants turn colors based on temps length of light and spectrum..back down on all nutes the later u go...but ya..k is not ur enemy lol
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
james murphy said:
plants nutes levels are always changing..later on the plant cant mobilize the k and so the plants turn colors based on temps length of light and spectrum..back down on all nutes the later u go...but ya..k is not ur enemy lol
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I know there is a school of thought that loves K. It's not high brix. High brix pushes high calcium straight through flowering. The results have created a ton of believers.
 
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